If you have time, I would appreciate that, I have a multimeter. Thankyou.
Suppose your right, just werent sure if they varied with quality, like the maf's do.
So the FAE one on eurocarparts entitled ( V70 cooling fan switch) is the one to go for?
If you have time, I would appreciate that, I have a multimeter. Thankyou.
Suppose your right, just werent sure if they varied with quality, like the maf's do.
So the FAE one on eurocarparts entitled ( V70 cooling fan switch) is the one to go for?
'04 S60 D5 163
No, you're in the wrong section. You want the temp sensor in the engine management sensors section.
19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...
310.2bhp / 333ft/lb
2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
SOLD
Got an old discovery now.
Are you sure, the picture on this one http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vo...0ade587&000529 is identical to the piece that i have been fettling with, the other one has a green plastic housing.
'04 S60 D5 163
Here you go.
This is getting confusing, if, as you say, the sensor with the green housing is the coolant temp sensor, then what sensor have i been unplugging next to the thermostat housing? On the web, some label it as a coolant temp sensor and others label it as a "radiator fan switch", can anybody clear this up, why all this is happening if i remove the radiator fan switch?
M-R-P: This is the genuine Volvo part number for the switch that i think is faulty on my car. It comes back as a coolant temp sensor 9125463 volvo.
Harvey: Appreciate the information, its a little dark now so will test it first thing. Thanks.
Last edited by pillapow; Friday 28th March 2014 at 20:09.
'04 S60 D5 163
The sensor that has been the difference between poor running with little boost to what seems to be excellent boost and a lot more pull is no.18 on the following link. This has confused me now.
http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/sh...ssembly=241318
'04 S60 D5 163
Also Harvey, the link you posted, my layout isnt like that, my T-stat housing layout is identical to the one in the link i posted.
'04 S60 D5 163
Any idea what the differences between these two are?
M-R-P says i need the green one, but the one with the wire and connector block is identical to the one fitted to my car. However both are listed at Coolant Temp Sensor for 2001 V70 T5...
'04 S60 D5 163
P1 V70 2.5T Scorpion Exhaust, 3" downpipe 100cel cat, BSR induction, KKK24, GWE 3" Maf to turbo pipe,japanifold , 2010 V50 T5 Alloys Projector Headlamps with 5k Hid kit Quickshift kit, strut brace, Koni Yellow Sport,IPD BCS AET motorsport remap
Previous: 2004 XC90 T6, 240GLT Estate, 343DL
Toys: Capri 3.7 Twin turbo, Kawasaki ZX10R 2006,
Got some resistance readings from the coolant sensor today, temp was determined from water temperature in the header tank, I squeezed the bottom and top rad hoses a few times before each reading to get as close to a true reading as possible. Didnt manage to get a 10 degree base reading but will get one tomorrow.
Full operating temp (couldnt open header tank) - resistance 227 Ohms
65 degrees - resistance 313 ohms.
57 degrees - resistance 430 ohms.
47 degrees - resistance 700 ohms.
42 degrees - resistance 780 ohms.
40 degrees - resistance 800 ohms.
35 degrees - resistance 870 ohms.
Thats as accurate as i can get it with a thermometer and multimeter.
Considering the Ohm resistance should be 2450 @ 20 degrees, im unsure what to make of the results but the resistance at full operating temperature seems spot on, I may have it completely wrong, if somebody can have a go at working it out, it would help.
Funny enough, the car seems to be running a bit better with the temp sensor plugged in, especially in 1st and 2nd gear, not so much in 3rd onwards, but still not full performance, when its unplugged the car is much better still, but noticabley better in 1st and 2nd...
Thanks guys.
'04 S60 D5 163
Was 15 degrees in my header tank this morning when i woke up, resistance @ 15 degrees celsius was 1760 ohms.
'04 S60 D5 163
Fitted a new sensor today, new Thermostat seal, stat seems fine, genuine volvo part, reset battery, left ignition on for ten mins before starting just to make sure, first few runs, car was marginally better but still giving similair problems with boost, fan stayed on after shutdown, idle was still high, so felt a bit pee'd off that the sensor hadnt fixed the issue, took her out just now up motorway, done about 10 miles, car is performing brilliant, idle is still high though when fully warm, around 950rpm, maybe it did this before and i hadnt really noticed.
My question is this, would it be normal for the car to adhere to the new sensor after a few miles/cycles of the ignition? Rather than doing it instantly?
Many thanks guys. I do hate ME7 though, i must confess.
'04 S60 D5 163
For anybody who is looking to do this or comes across this thread, having similar issues, the coolant temp sensor is located behind the thermostat housing, the wiring loom for it is held onto a bracket next to the thermostat.
Once you have drained some coolant from the system (I just cracked open the stat) and have the thermostat housing removed, (T40 Torx drive) you will be able to access the coolant temp sensor with an open ended 19mm spanner, as i couldnt find my open ended 19mm spanner, i opted to cut the connector off the end of the sender wiring and use a 19mm ring spanner, space is quite restricted so be sure not to round anything or you are in for a nightmare job.
Mating surfaces cleaned ready for refitting.
New coolant temp sensor and thermostat seal fitted, sealed the joint with Loctite black, excellent stuff for sealing joints and cooling systems.
Seems to have cured my issues with rich running, loss of power when engine is at full temp, loss of boost etc..
Last edited by pillapow; Wednesday 2nd April 2014 at 23:28.
'04 S60 D5 163
Hmmmm... It might take a while to adapt.
19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...
310.2bhp / 333ft/lb
2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
SOLD
Got an old discovery now.
Good news it did help with the running fault,give it 10 or so runs and hopefully it will be ok.
live readings would be useful in VIDA. That way you can see exactly what the ECU is reading from the CTS.
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
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