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  1. #61
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    Problem remains, only happens when the car is right at full temp, and when i say full temp, i mean with the temp needle slightly over the top of the gauge, im assuming this isnt right?

    Where should the temp needle sit on a ME7 2001 T5?

    Im thinking the stat is opening too late, allowing the engine to run too hot, therefore the ECU is cutting boost ?

    Is this possible?
    '04 S60 D5 163

  2. #62
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    The needle should sit half way up the gauge, if it's off the end of the gauge, then you've killed the engine.

  3. #63
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    No, what i mean is, lets say the gauge reads, 10 o clock at its coldest, 12 o clock at normal operating temp and 2 o clock is the kill your engine time, my needle sits at about half twelve, it is noticably over the bang on midway point of the temp gauge?

    Im wondering if this is normal or should it sit right on 12 o clock?
    '04 S60 D5 163

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by pillapow View Post
    No, what i mean is, lets say the gauge reads, 10 o clock at its coldest, 12 o clock at normal operating temp and 2 o clock is the kill your engine time, my needle sits at about half twelve, it is noticably over the bang on midway point of the temp gauge?

    Im wondering if this is normal or should it sit right on 12 o clock?
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  5. #65
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    Normally they sit bang on 12 o'clock.

  6. #66
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    Would of got a pic but i got the new stat today and plan on fitting it first thing tomorrow, do have a little tale to tell though, bought a thermostat from eurocarparts on ebay and opted to collect it from the St Helens store, went to the store this afternoon, got the stat and left, good job i checked it before i drove away, it was a used thermostat and when i say used, i mean well used, it was also damaged, it had limescale and crap all over it, what a joke, took it back in and they all umm'd and arr'd over it, told me it was probably sent back as a faulty return.. Of course, so you sell it on do you? Anyway, give them their due, the delivery guy ordered one over from Bolton and delivered it to my house at 5pm. Nice shiny new one 92 degrees, probably wont do a blind it of difference as i wanted a 87 degree one but beggars cant be choosers i suppose. In fact, I'll go and get a pic of the gauge now as ive just got in and the engine is hot.

    Car runs fine up until the top dead centre of the temp gauge, as soon as it goes past that point it begins to run badly, boomy, loss of boost, hesitation, pooor fuel consumption, the gauge sits at the point pictured when at full operating temp.

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    Last edited by pillapow; Saturday 5th April 2014 at 00:17.
    '04 S60 D5 163

  7. #67
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    That's only slightly over what ours reads. Good luck changing the stat, as I.I.r.c. the power steering pump has to come off to get access to it.

  8. #68
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    No, it took 5 mins to do the stat, its the old type with two torx t40 bolts, new stat is pretty inferior to the old stat, see what happens, might have to put old stat back in, if this doesnt cure the fault then i dont know what else to do.
    '04 S60 D5 163

  9. #69
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    Or run it with the stat not fitted and see if things change as the temp level will be lower.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harvey View Post
    Or run it with the stat not fitted and see if things change as the temp level will be lower.
    Wont i get really bad mpg doing that? I have fitted the new stat and performance is the same, sluggish when engine is hot, excellent leading upto it, temp gauge in the cabin also reads exactly the same, a little over when upto temp.

    Running without a stat is an idea though, its how bad it will affect my consumption. Im currently averaging 21.3.

    Before this fault, i was averaging 26mpg.

    Probs just have to live with it.
    Last edited by pillapow; Saturday 5th April 2014 at 17:13.
    '04 S60 D5 163

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    This time of year now it's not -5 or the likes,won't be to bad the engine will come up to temp ,my point was to see if the fault is still there or not not to to leave it removed permanently. Also just thinking are the cooling fans working when it get hot ?.

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    Have you looked at the temp sensor?
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  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harvey View Post
    This time of year now it's not -5 or the likes,won't be to bad the engine will come up to temp ,my point was to see if the fault is still there or not not to to leave it removed permanently. Also just thinking are the cooling fans working when it get hot ?.
    Yes, the fan is working, it kicks in if i pull up and let the engine idle after a hard run.

    I will try running it without the stat and see what happens.

    Quote Originally Posted by siamblue View Post
    Have you looked at the temp sensor?
    Yes, chopped a genuine volvo coolant sensor off and removed a genuine volvo stat to be replaced with pattern parts and still the same, so its not the cooling department thats causing the issue.
    '04 S60 D5 163

  14. #74
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    Removed recirculating plate, checked diaphram, resealed, removed etm again, cleaned, resealed, still the same.

    Its sort of kangeroo'ing now, especially on the motorway.

    Is there any sort of test i can do to check whether its the turbo control valve?
    '04 S60 D5 163

  15. #75
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    Pillapow, Ive just watched your video again and I'll be honest.....the clicking noise I can hear that affects the revs, sounds like the A/C compressor clutch engaging and disengaging.
    I think your being led up the garden path a bit. If you've already cleaned the ETM - happy days. Have you removed and cleaned the MAF?
    I was surprised at what a difference it can make to drive ability of the car including Boost, idle, mid range power etc.
    Clear the codes, clean the MAF and test.
    Your cooling fans running after you switch off is totally normal. Also, if you fitted a 92*C stat then your picture of the temp gauge ALSO looks normal. Why did you not fit an 87*C stat? Aren't they mean't to be 87, otherwise your making the engine run hotter than normal. This will affect your fuel consumption.
    Last edited by LeeT5; Saturday 19th April 2014 at 09:26.
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    pillapow (Sunday 20th April 2014)

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    I will apologise from the start as members usually find my responses a bit beyond them.......but someone has made a big fupar or the cheap OBD11 scanner has, as PO118 is the ECT or Engine Coolant Sensor error code and not PO181 which should be for FUEL Temperature Sensor but on Vadis for your model i cannot find this sensor yet the scanner reader comes up with this code.

    The thing is you are ripping out Volvo specified parts and are replacing with cheaper Aftermarket parts so goodness knows where the hell you are with trying to trace a problem. Most aftermarket parts have there own inbuilt problems because of cheapness some rare exceptions.

    OK so sometimes one will strike lucky but the aftermarket part will give less performance or sensor readings and will only last a trifle what the Volvo part will. Don`t forget you are probably replacing a Volvo part after at least 10 years of good service for a crap part that will only at best last you 1 year. Yes, by all means use the cheaper part but the reliability and performance of the motor will suffer and you won`t even know where it lacks performance as you have forgotten how it performed with the genuine Volvo part!........you just know it works!


    It would help to get the correct error code and if it is PO118 which is for the ECT then maybe you need the genuine Volvo part as a faulty one does indicate that the fuel trim at start is affected and also the engine fan will run only on low speed. It also points to a faulty Thermostat which you have already rectified!

    There are over a 1000 error codes and not every one applies to every car .......it depends on the year and model of the motor as well as make........the error codes for your model for instance are different from the 2000 ME7 T5.......

    Also as far as Vadis and Vida go, Vadis is up to 2005 and Vida afterwards, a lot of listings in Vida are not as comprehensive as in Vadis for certain years so it pays to use the program which is conversant with your model.
    Last edited by 960kg; Saturday 19th April 2014 at 14:49.


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    pillapow (Sunday 20th April 2014)

  19. #77
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    Had a google and found this, wondering if the fuel pressure sensor and temperatures combined ?.

    As it says no 21 in the key and that looks like a fuel pressure sensor to me ,I know it's the wrong car and year but it does say temp sensor & pressure on key ?.

    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...HrFWIQpw7ffo9w


    Last edited by Harvey; Saturday 19th April 2014 at 19:45.

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  21. #78
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    Thankyou Lee, 960kg & Harvey for your input, Ive been living with the issue for a few weeks now, different symptoms appearing also.

    Once or twice, the car has completely bogged down, once was second gear around 3500rpm into a bend, full throttle, momentarily bogged and then came back to life, (can only compare it to a two stroke bike bogging down)

    Second was on a hot day, 20 degrees, engine full temp, full throttle take off 1st gear, (still spins with the lack of power) lol, same scenario, bogged around 5-6krpm, felt like a fuel cut tbh, momentarily.

    It sounds boost related to me, listening to the engine, through throttle ranges and different revs etc, can hear boost being vented at times, can hear boost being dumped, very audibly on the gear change at times, other times, not.

    Took it, (i usually refer to them as "her", but this one is definitely an "IT")! Took it the local tesco at around midnight, roughly a 7 mile round trip, all straight "A" roads so can use the throttle, 6 degrees the air was, gently brought it to 4000rpm in 3rd gear, held it there for a few seconds, gave it WOT - (result was a very small hesitation, then a hard pull, did the same in 4th, similair result, then WOT upon shift to 5th and it was a smooth pull but still lacking the response and punch it once had, seems restricted, held back, but seems to run well in the cold, runs terrible in the heat, be it outside temp or engine temp.

    Im going to clean the MAF, MAP, AIT sensors and the other one thats in the airbox to turbo pipe.

    Another thing i have noticed, it has a pipercross panel filter which is heavily oiled, im hoping that the MAF is gummed up but probably not.

    Been to look at two pre ME7 t5's in the past two weeks and they werent a patch on my V70, even with its faults, so heres to persevering.

    Sorry for long post, thanks guys.
    Last edited by pillapow; Sunday 20th April 2014 at 02:20.
    '04 S60 D5 163

  22. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by pillapow View Post
    Another thing i have noticed, it has a pipercross panel filter which is heavily oiled, im hoping that the MAF is gummed up but probably not.
    An oiled filter WILL knacker a MAF over time. Definitely worth cleaning on a regular basis.

    THIS is the stuff you need. LeeT5 recommends it. If it is good enough for him, it is good enough for me!
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    Yes I have used that maf cleaner it's the stuff to use as it's safe to all the components in the maf,best not use brake cleaner or the likes.


 

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