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  1. #1
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    Angry Boost hesitation and intermittent lack of power

    Right you lot!

    I have had the following fault code consistently reoccurring for the last 4 months with no symptoms: ECM6805.
    Turbo was replaced (as you all know) by the dealer a few months ago because my turbo seals were knackered and the car was burning tons of oil. After the Turbo was replaced I noticed the oil consumption was notably less and no more blue smoke off throttle (mainly after driving down a long hill). Boost was all good and seeing stable peak of around 15-16psi. Sweet!

    However, now I'm also getting fault code ECM130A and ECM6805. Now the symptoms are fluctuating base idle when warmed up, but it doesn't fluctuate all the time, mainly when you restart the car after its been switched off for 30 minutes or so. The idle is jumping around all over the place, hunting and it takes about 20 seconds to calm itself down.
    Also, when under hard acceleration in higher gears, ie 3rd or 4th it will "miss a beat" or jolt slightly, when boosting.

    Its really beginning to get on my wick.

    Before I take it to the dealer, cos that's likely at the moment, I wondered if anyway had any other ideas??

    Is my MAF knackered? The TCV was replaced only last week and it has made no difference. I have cleaned the BPS and I'm unable to log any live data because my poxy DICE will not communicate with the dam car!!!

    I'm at my wits end with the car at the moment cos I've been putting up with it for a while now, but the car drives 90% ok, most of the time!

    Any 'constructive' answers please would be much appreciated.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  2. #2
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    It could well be the MAF Lee, I'm having fun as we speak.

    Take it out of its housing and give it a clean, I used 'Electrical cleaner' from Halfords @ £3.49 a can you can use half a can without bankrupting yourself, give it a good squirt from 8" or so and then let it dry out, repeat a couple of times, don't forget the temperature sensor on the side.


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    LeeT5 (Saturday 22nd February 2014)

  4. #3
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    Still more fettling needed,
    will it never end?
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    Sounds like it could be a MAF problem, but as you know mate, there are so many sensors without getting it plugged in, it's hard to pinpoint which one is playing up.

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    LeeT5 (Saturday 22nd February 2014)

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    Still more fettling needed,
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    Quote Originally Posted by V70 Graham View Post
    It could well be the MAF Lee, I'm having fun as we speak.

    Take it out of its housing and give it a clean, I used 'Electrical cleaner' from Halfords @ £3.49 a can you can use half a can without bankrupting yourself, give it a good squirt from 8" or so and then let it dry out, repeat a couple of times, don't forget the temperature sensor on the side.

    oooooooooooooooh, get the Volvo Master Technician.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stribo View Post
    oooooooooooooooh, get the Volvo Master Technician.
    We all know I know very little lol but if I think what little I do know will help someone then I like to try and help out.


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    theflyingbrick (Saturday 22nd February 2014)

  9. #6
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    Still more fettling needed,
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    Quote Originally Posted by V70 Graham View Post
    We all know I know very little lol but if I think what little I do know will help someone then I like to try and help out.
    I know mate, just taking the pee.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    Right you lot!

    I have had the following fault code consistently reoccurring for the last 4 months with no symptoms: ECM6805.
    Turbo was replaced (as you all know) by the dealer a few months ago because my turbo seals were knackered and the car was burning tons of oil. After the Turbo was replaced I noticed the oil consumption was notably less and no more blue smoke off throttle (mainly after driving down a long hill). Boost was all good and seeing stable peak of around 15-16psi. Sweet!

    However, now I'm also getting fault code ECM130A and ECM6805. Now the symptoms are fluctuating base idle when warmed up, but it doesn't fluctuate all the time, mainly when you restart the car after its been switched off for 30 minutes or so. The idle is jumping around all over the place, hunting and it takes about 20 seconds to calm itself down.
    Also, when under hard acceleration in higher gears, ie 3rd or 4th it will "miss a beat" or jolt slightly, when boosting.

    Its really beginning to get on my wick.

    Before I take it to the dealer, cos that's likely at the moment, I wondered if anyway had any other ideas??

    Is my MAF knackered? The TCV was replaced only last week and it has made no difference. I have cleaned the BPS and I'm unable to log any live data because my poxy DICE will not communicate with the dam car!!!

    I'm at my wits end with the car at the moment cos I've been putting up with it for a while now, but the car drives 90% ok, most of the time!

    Any 'constructive' answers please would be much appreciated.
    As you have changed the TCV the code may stay as you know perhaps for quite a few colds starts.....but if it doesn`t go are the hoses connected to it OK?...or are they blocked with crud etc......from a damaged turbo or otherwise?

    your other code as you probably know is for an air leak so seeing as the dealer changed the turbo has he damaged the PCV nipple or anything around that area to do with the PCV system to introduce an air leak ?....other than that maybe a damaged MAF!!..........is the irregular idle the common dirty or contaminated throttle flap??
    Last edited by 960kg; Saturday 22nd February 2014 at 20:56.


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    Hi, try unplugging the MAF then taking her for a spin. It could rule out a dodgy MAF.
    2003 S60R. RaceS60R 3" DP, RaceS60R intake, Re-map performance remap, FMIC, D5 oil cooler

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    how old is the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail? I believe they can throw weird codes when they fail.
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  13. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    how old is the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail? I believe they can throw weird codes when they fail.
    replaced by Volvo last year.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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  15. #11
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    Fuel pump or pumps as there are two in the tank,does it make any difference when you have a full tank as the second pump only works to transfer to other side ?.
    The pump controller have a look at the plug & socket as they can suffer from water ingress,it's near the fuel filter.
    Last edited by Harvey; Sunday 23rd February 2014 at 12:02.

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    Did the 2nd DiCE not work then ?.

  17. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harvey View Post
    Fuel pump or pumps as there are two in the tank,does it make any difference when you have a full tank as the second pump only works to transfer to other side ?.
    The pump controller have a look at the plug & socket as they can suffer from water ingress,it's near the fuel filter.
    No difference.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  18. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harvey View Post
    Did the 2nd DiCE not work then ?.
    Nope.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  19. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sizzlechest View Post
    Hi, try unplugging the MAF then taking her for a spin. It could rule out a dodgy MAF.
    You cant do that on a P2 R. It needs the info from the MAF to correctly correlate boost pressure. Running without a MAF will just make it worse and cause lack of power.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  20. #16
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    My car will do the same occasionally, but no errors in the ECM... I know there is a small air leak in the charge pipe. Next month I'll be replacing the TCV, the vacuum lines and the ignition coils. Already left the car with the local dealer and nothing was found.

    The throttle body has been cleaned, the maf has been replaced, new spark plugs installed, new petrol filter, new timing and accessories belt fitted.
    Last edited by Ric@rdo; Monday 24th February 2014 at 19:51.

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  21. #17
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    check for boost leakage dude

  22. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    Nope.
    So it does sound like software problem then.

  23. #19
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    Update

    In the last week the car has been driving better. I am now seeing 12 psi of boost and it's gets there quicker, so maybe the new TCV is adjusting itself or rather, the ECM is learning and adapting. There is also less or almost no jittering under boost. All good! However, I'm still getting crap idle once warmed up, hunting and base idle fluctuating. It doesn't do this all the time just sometimes and it's very annoying. So, looking like it's more likely to be a MAF fault at the moment.
    Like I said, car is totally drive able just abit annoying when the idle starts going mental when sitting at traffic lights! As soon as I pull away, it's fine.
    Going to let dealer loose on it in a couple of weeks so we'll see what they say, assuming their DICE will communicate with the car. If it don't, then it looks like it will be having a new CEM.

  24. #20
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    Lee, it's rare for you to ask others for advice on here, you're normally the guy waving all the answers at us and telling us where the garages have gone wrong. Interesting to see the opposite situation right now!


 

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