hahahaha my back box is as it should be thank you very much
hahahaha my back box is as it should be thank you very much
full respray..plenty of body mods..comets..ray cat back noise pipe..decat and wrapped downpipe..me7 exhaust manifold..3" throttle body with ported inlet manifold..blue injectors..adjustable fuel reg..reverse intercooler pipework..19t..open cone air filter..255 fuel pump..m-r-p short shift..boost gauge..unknown remap..adjustable suspension..lightweight crank pulley..n/a cams..stripped out interior..and a heavy right foot
I soaked my heat wrap in water 1st so that when it dries it tightens up more. I then sprayed it in Cool-it sealant.
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If its been welded with s/s wire the process used will make no difference what so ever.
s60 2.4 t5 eibach springs,up rated rear anti roll bar, poly bushed wishbones, poly lower engine mount, fmic, bmc air filter, 3" decat, 2.5" stainless exhaust,hlm remap 328bhp,
jamesy12345 (Monday 24th February 2014)
Corrosion under insulation is a big worry on the piping I work with but as Stribo says above, should be no problem on stainless. Unless it's 304 stainless grade and we are talking about Volvo marine engines.....
Decent wrap shouldn't soak water up anyway.
Thanks Oblark very useful I was thinking about wrapping mine also
Heat wrapping the intake pipes is a good idea but if you have a SS down pipe its a good enough flow so why ruin it.
Never thought of wrapping the intake pipes. I would rather leave them open on these cars cos they get a good flow of air. A rear engined car would be different tho
I thought the point of wrapping the down pipe was to stop the heat radiating into the engine bay? I wouldn't wrap the exhaust manifold as I think that would put too much heat back into the cylinder head??
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