M4.4 Remapping.......

[oblark]

I think i'm the only idiot that cannot work out how to use tunerpro and motronic suite! Looking good tho Rob when you bringing her out or going to any meets?

I went to the last southern meet and will be at the next one on the 24th August

If you can bring your ecu to the next meet I`ll see what I can do.

[Jamest5r]

I think i'm the only idiot that cannot work out how to use tunerpro and motronic suite! Looking good tho Rob when you bringing her out or going to any meets?

Same reason I bought a TurboTuner then even ran out of talent with that and paid someone else to map it lol

[oblark]

Same reason I bought a TurboTuner then even ran out of talent with that and paid someone else to map it lol

You are so limited to what you can do with turbo tuner.

[Jamest5r]

You are so limited to what you can do with turbo tuner.

I'm limited full stop

[oblark]

More goodies turned up today



The only thing is that they were advertised as having a M8 thread but they have a 1/4 UNC thread

So instead of welding on 2 stainless M8 nuts I`ve got to make 2 1/4 UNC stainless bosses.

[oblark]

Finally got around to fitting the thermocouples and wiring in the oil sensors.



The oil pressure when the engine is cold is 60 psi and then drops as the oil warms up to 30 psi Hopefully will get the oil temp sensor fitted over the weekend.
The thermocouples readings bounce around to a piont where you can`t read them, not to sure if this is down to cheap thermocouples.
Will get the fuel pressure sensor fitted once it arrives which should be by the middle of next month.

[stribo]

Urm, not wishing to sound thick (but doing so anyway) is the oil pressure as it should be , or should it be higher/lower?

[oblark]

Urm, not wishing to sound thick (but doing so anyway) is the oil pressure as it should be , or should it be higher/lower?

The Haynes book of lies states that the oil pressure at idle should be 15 psi and climbing to 45 psi at 3000 rpm

Personally I would perfer higher than lower oil pressure

[stribo]

The Haynes book of lies states that the oil pressure at idle should be 15 psi and climbing to 45 psi at 3000 rpm

Personally I would perfer higher than lower oil pressure

I know what you're saying, but will it not start blowing seals if it's too high?

[oblark]

I know what you're saying, but will it not start blowing seals if it's too high?

The way I see it is that when the oil is cold it`s thicker and can`t flow out of the brgs but as the oil warms up it becomes thinner and can flow easier out of the brgs those lowering the oil pressure. I will be able to back this theroy up once I`ve fitted the oil temp sensor.

Or I could be barking up the wrong tree

[stribo]

The way I see it is that when the oil is cold it`s thicker and can`t flow out of the brgs but as the oil warms up it becomes thinner and can flow easier out of the brgs those lowering the oil pressure. I will be able to back this theroy up once I`ve fitted the oil temp sensor.

Or I could be barking up the wrong tree

Yeah, I understand why the oil pressure is higher when cold, but when warm at idle it's supposed to be 15 psi, and yours is double that, so I'm guessing at 3000 RPM it'll be considerably higher than 45 psi, just wondering what oil pressure you can run before you start blowing seals.

[oblark]

Yeah, I understand why the oil pressure is higher when cold, but when warm at idle it's supposed to be 15 psi, and yours is double that, so I'm guessing at 3000 RPM it'll be considerably higher than 45 psi, just wondering what oil pressure you can run before you start blowing seals.

I`ll let you tomorrow once I`ve been to Steve`s and back

[Volvostorm]

Most oils on the shelves today are "Multigrades", which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)
Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance.
The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.

The oil pump has a relief valve, so it shouldn't go high enough to blow seals.

[Ettienne]

Most oils on the shelves today are "Multigrades", which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)
Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance.
The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.

The oil pump has a relief valve, so it shouldn't go high enough to blow seals.

Well pasted lol

[oblark]

Had time today to fit the oil temp sensor,



This is oil temp at idle, ignore the pre & post intercooler temps as the thermocouples are £$%&ed

[960kg]

Just to add to what has been said.

Here are Volvo`s figures which must be more accurate than in Haynes!

You can see it depends what year and engine one has in there motor also you see the 850 T engine can run a higher oil pressure due to three different relief springs in the pump.

In my old school days the common thing on our Coopers was to put a thick nut off a 1/4 bolt on the end of the spring to give it 60 psi.......memories!

Conversion figures = Bottom Pic. For 1997 - B5234T3

0.10 = 14.50 psi @ 800rpm

0.10 = 14.50 psi @ 850rpm

0.35 = 50.76psi @ 4000rpm

Max. Pressure of 0.48 = 69.618psi


Top Pic. For 1996 850 B5234T + others as stated

0.10 = 14.50 psi @ 800rpm

0.10 = 14.50 psi @ 850rpm

0.35 = 50.76psi @ 4000rpm

Max. Pressure of 0.70 = 101.52psi Depending on length of Relief Spring

[oblark]

I think I`ve found out why my car was blowing blue smoke at WOT when changing gear.



It looks like the timing is out, I`ve been using rev5 instead of rev6.

[oblark]

I loaded 608 rev6 yesterday and went for a drive this evening.

It runs better and goes better but I`ve maxed my greens out

[Jamest5r]

Please excuse my ignorance I'm just learning, afrs are perfect, boost is at 15.6psi how come it's maxing the green's?

[jamesy12345]

Please excuse my ignorance I'm just learning, afrs are perfect, boost is at 15.6psi how come it's maxing the green's?

bigger maf??