Devastated

[Biff]

Yesterday I removed the actuator arm off the wastegate arm & it was if it locked in a 10 to position where as it's usually half past pointing to the engine. It was Very stiff as if it locked. Even though I wound the actuator arm out to lower the boost it felt a bit lively lower down the revs.
When I accelerated I gave it wot in 3rd & that's when the boost went mental & the car jerked as if it was the boost cut off as it's done it a long while ago. No engine warming lights came on & I noticed as I pulled up at the lights the noise. It does sound like a knocking, that's why I'm convinced it's lunched a piston rod.
I guess I'll have to strip it & find out.
This car is gonna be my divorce. Lol
Absolutely gutted. A forged engine is out of the question. I'd need it sorted as quickly & preferably as cheaply as possible or it may be threatened with being broken yet again.

[abdul]

Hope u dont break it

[merc85]

Have you taken the plugs out? ive know the tips to fall off before and do damage. usually a bent rod sounds like a ticking noise.

[Jim S70R]

Sorry to hear that buddy, Does sound terminal hope it's not the end of another Volvo though.

[Biff]

No mate I've not taken the plugs out, surely it would miss if a plug had been blown to pieces?
I'm not feeling very positive the noise it's making, it does sound terminal Jim.
Will get a compression test done on tues & go from there.
Anyone got any bottom ends knocking about? Lol

[RollingThunder]

Sorry to hear about this Biff. Hope its not as bad as you suspect. Worst case scenario, why not just rebuild the engine or drop another in?

[AndysR]

When I did one of my rods it was a ticking noise exactly the same as a failed lifter, it even sounded like it was coming from the top of the engine. What was found when the engine was stripped was that one of the rods had very slightly bent and the part of the rod that the gudgeon pin goes through was slightly touching the piston. If I'd have driven it for a few hard miles chances are it would have worn enough of the rod/piston contact area that the noise would have gone. It still wouldn't have fixed the fault which was the rod itself, if you want to fix it as cheaply as possible then source another engine and don't even bother wasting your time stripping your current engine. Personally if the current engine is any good then I would recommend you fit some forged rods then you can almost forget about any future boost spike related faults...

Frankie that's a fair outlay for an engine which has had a set of rods and a refresh when you didn't have to pay labour to fit or remove it from a car ...

[Kingsford G]

Bad news mate,sorry to hear that.

[merc85]

No mate I've not taken the plugs out, surely it would miss if a plug had been blown to pieces?
I'm not feeling very positive the noise it's making, it does sound terminal Jim.
Will get a compression test done on tues & go from there.
Anyone got any bottom ends knocking about? Lol

Engines can be had pritty cheap by the looks of things on ebay. I suppose you dont know how good they are till there fitted.

fingers crossed for you bud

[Biff]

Sorry to hear about this Biff. Hope its not as bad as you suspect. Worst case scenario, why not just rebuild the engine or drop another in?

If the worst has happened....
I think I'll keep my eyes peeled for a replacement engine that I can strip down for a health check. I have the tools to port & polish the head from when I worked in Toyota so may spend some time along with a lick of paint. Been told by a few people who I know have experience with t5's have said they will carry on with a bent rod & in fact get quieter.
All I know is I won't be spending a fortune as my money is tied up with our ivf treatment.
Thanks for your input lads.
Words can't express how gutted I am after everything I've done this last 12months. Feel royally shafted.

[Biff]

When I did one of my rods it was a ticking noise exactly the same as a failed lifter, it even sounded like it was coming from the top of the engine. What was found when the engine was stripped was that one of the rods had very slightly bent and the part of the rod that the gudgeon pin goes through was slightly touching the piston. If I'd have driven it for a few hard miles chances are it would have worn enough of the rod/piston contact area that the noise would have gone. It still wouldn't have fixed the fault which was the rod itself, if you want to fix it as cheaply as possible then source another engine and don't even bother wasting your time stripping your current engine. Personally if the current engine is any good then I would recommend you fit some forged rods then you can almost forget about any future boost spike related faults...

Frankie that's a fair outlay for an engine which has had a set of rods and a refresh when you didn't have to pay labour to fit or remove it from a car ...

I've been told that by a few lads now so hopefully I will be able to coast it while I get a replacement. I don't think I'd bother rebuilding mine as ideally I want to keep it running while I sort out a good engine.
I'd be looking at Least £500 for forged rods at a guess?
Thanks boys, your experiences & advice is very welcome!

[Biff]

I'm right in thinking I will need a pre me7 engine or will a bare me7 engine work? Sorry I'm just weighing up my options.

[AndysR]

I've been told that by a few lads now so hopefully I will be able to coast it while I get a replacement. I don't think I'd bother rebuilding mine as ideally I want to keep it running while I sort out a good engine.
I'd be looking at Least £500 for forged rods at a guess?
Thanks boys, your experiences & advice is very welcome!

Roughly, depends on what brand you go for really.

[AndysR]

I'm right in thinking I will need a pre me7 engine or will a bare me7 engine work? Sorry I'm just weighing up my options.

Not sure, at a guess I'd say it didn't matter as the differences are management related and intake/exhaust manifold changes. That said I genuinely don't know, the ME7 crank is supposed to be a better item due to weight savings and I think some changes to the standard rods can be an plus point for more boost but still probably not enough to help when boost spikes occur so I'd still get rods...

[Biff]

Not sure, at a guess I'd say it didn't matter as the differences are management related and intake/exhaust manifold changes. That said I genuinely don't know, the ME7 crank is supposed to be a better item due to weight savings and I think some changes to the standard rods can be an plus point for more boost but still probably not enough to help when boost spikes occur so I'd still get rods...

I think a bit of research is in order after a bit of detective work.
In an ideal world if it is a rod it will bed in again so I have plenty of time to buy some forged rods & port & polish my head.
Thanks Andy.

[graemewelch]

he wont have one like mine if he did that, i have a 3 grand engine rebuilt engine

i wish the fish would bite as much as you.

If the worst has happened....
I think I'll keep my eyes peeled for a replacement engine that I can strip down for a health check. I have the tools to port & polish the head from when I worked in Toyota so may spend some time along with a lick of paint. Been told by a few people who I know have experience with t5's have said they will carry on with a bent rod & in fact get quieter.
All I know is I won't be spending a fortune as my money is tied up with our ivf treatment.
Thanks for your input lads.
Words can't express how gutted I am after everything I've done this last 12months. Feel royally shafted.

ive got a engine you could have very cheap if you want to pm me. poss headgasket gone as some sludge in header but dosnt over heat or pressurise the the water system. i havnt done a compression test but would do one if your intrested

[shemtek_racing]

A bent rod will go quiet after 100miles or so depending on how bent it is! Lol

The damage is already done by this point so just because you can't hear it anymore doesn't mean it's ok

Biff have you changed your number?

[Kingsford G]

[QUOTE=graemewelch;684674

ive got a engine you could have very cheap if you want to pm me. poss headgasket gone as some sludge in header but dosnt over heat or pressurise the the water system. i havnt done a compression test but would do one if your intrested[/QUOTE]


Could`ve been water mixed with oil via radiator like I had.

[Biff]

A bent rod will go quiet after 100miles or so depending on how bent it is! Lol

The damage is already done by this point so just because you can't hear it anymore doesn't mean it's ok

Biff have you changed your number?

I will replace it anyway now I reckon Shem it's not sounding good so even if it go's quiet I still know it's broken.
I have changed my number, will text you at a decent hour mate, sorry I thought I'd passed it on. Sorry dude!
I've had the oil & water problem myself thanks to a dodgy oil cooler. I'd be interested Graeme as I would strip it anyway.

[graemewelch]

I'd be interested Graeme as I would strip it anyway.[/QUOTE]


will see what we can sort out when i get back off my hols.