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  1. #21
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    It's crazy - I saw the broken thermistor and immediately thought of James' thread, did some googling and found the same thing happening all over the tinter-web.

    Craig's face when I cut the thermistor off his nearly-new, almost-working panel was a picture and to be honest I wasn't 100% sure it would work but I knew I could put it back on the other panel, should I need to.

    There's also the option of just jumping the broken thermistor with a bit of wire. The auto controls won't work properly but it does (apparently) give you back full control of the panel.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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  2. #22
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    V70 Graham's Avatar
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    I do love a quick blast of the heated seats when it's cold.


    The Relentless Pursuit Of Perfection

  3. #23
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    Is that in the Golf?

    Don't remember the V70 having heated seats..?
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    Is that in the Golf?

    Don't remember the V70 having heated seats..?
    Your memory is going.....in the Golf AND the V70


    The Relentless Pursuit Of Perfection

  5. #25
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    Oooh...
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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    Got an old discovery now.

  6. #26
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    Still more fettling needed,
    will it never end?
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    Is that in the Golf?

    Don't remember the V70 having heated seats..?
    If his V70 didn't have heated seats, he's never hear the end of it, it's bad enough he didn't have a cupholder.

  7. #27
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    chavboi has finally got him a
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    Thanks again for helping with that martin my car is starting to look up together now amd atlast no kore driving to work with my head out the window for the first 3 miles
    chavboi

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  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesT5 View Post
    I have some experience with removing the CCM and did some research before hand.

    Try this.... make sure the car is powered down fully (as Harvey says give it at least 10 minutes). Take both battery terminals off the battery completely and hold them together for around 30 seconds. Put the positive cable back on first followed by the negative cable, then once all reconnected try and restart the car and see if the module comes to life.

    Apparently this can often work.
    For future reference, this is known in the trade as a 'Battery hard reset'. Due to nearly all cars nowadays having modules of varying complexity fitted to them from your billy basic body control module (BCM) to your full fat CEM Central electronic module, all of which are basically small computers. Sometimes they need resetting because, for want of a better word, they 'get confused'.
    I am having to do Hard resets more often in my job, in fact I'd say almost daily. In most cases it will cure a problem.
    One example from the other night was a brand new 63 reg Vauxhall Meriva with 1200 miles on the clock. Car had been used earlier in the day and when they went to start it later, it wouldn't.
    Long story short - the Transponder function had stopped working and would not recognize the keys, so it was immobilized. After checking everything I resolved the problem with a hard reset. Once complete, everything returned to normal. I gave her instructions to take the car back to the dealer in the morning for a possible software update.

    One thing to note....There is no need to remove the live terminal. Just disconnect the earth and reach it across to touch the live. Hold it for 5 seconds (to dissipate any static) then leave disconnected for 10 minutes, allowing all modules to power down and go into 'sleep' mode.
    Then reconnect (following manufacturers reconnection procedure in Autodata) and all should be back to normal.

    Hope that helps!
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  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    For future reference, this is known in the trade as a 'Battery hard reset'. Due to nearly all cars nowadays having modules of varying complexity fitted to them from your billy basic body control module (BCM) to your full fat CEM Central electronic module, all of which are basically small computers. Sometimes they need resetting because, for want of a better word, they 'get confused'.
    I am having to do Hard resets more often in my job, in fact I'd say almost daily. In most cases it will cure a problem.
    One example from the other night was a brand new 63 reg Vauxhall Meriva with 1200 miles on the clock. Car had been used earlier in the day and when they went to start it later, it wouldn't.
    Long story short - the Transponder function had stopped working and would not recognize the keys, so it was immobilized. After checking everything I resolved the problem with a hard reset. Once complete, everything returned to normal. I gave her instructions to take the car back to the dealer in the morning for a possible software update.

    One thing to note....There is no need to remove the live terminal. Just disconnect the earth and reach it across to touch the live. Hold it for 5 seconds (to dissipate any static) then leave disconnected for 10 minutes, allowing all modules to power down and go into 'sleep' mode.
    Then reconnect (following manufacturers reconnection procedure in Autodata) and all should be back to normal.

    Hope that helps!
    I'm sorry? Are you trying to blow the battery up here because that can be very dangerous!

  11. #30
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    no it won't James, you're touching the car's terminals, not the battery terminals.
    once you take the negative lead off, there's no energy in the system but the residual charge left in the modules.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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  12. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesT5 View Post
    I'm sorry? Are you trying to blow the battery up here because that can be very dangerous!
    If it were dangerous do you really think I'd post an answer that was dangerous?
    Martin is correct. Once you disconnect the earth then you no longer have a circuit, so you cannot blow up the battery, as you so delicately put it!
    All the power to all the modules and components come from the battery. Therefore, once it is disconnected it's no longer in the circuit and cannot provide any power. Touching the earth (cable) only onto the live terminal with the live cable attached, will do nothing.
    Have a read up on basic vehicle electrics, it may help your understanding. As they say, knowledge is power....
    Actually, that could be dangerous, so just leave electrics to the experts mate, that way you won't break anything. :-) love ya!
    Last edited by LeeT5; Sunday 2nd March 2014 at 20:41.

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    I've learned something new...cheers lol

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  15. #33
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    Better to be safe than sorry though, I always take both of mine off just to make sure.

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    Hi having an issue with my a/c unit. Like this one I don't have control over the fan speed. The temp is fine but if I try to alter the speed it stays the same. I had it into local garage who is Volvo trained and he had computer on it and it didn't show any faults,however he did clear the SRS warning light as I'd not let it shut down properly before taking lead off.
    So to get this thing working ok your saying it's possible to get a second hand unit and swap my facia onto it? Mine seems to be intermittent as I wanted to turn the fan up yesterday as it was warm but it refused to speed up,but this morning after it had been stood all night I got in switched it on and the fan was on at full blast,the setting I had try'd to get yesterday. Thanks in advance for your help.Rob.
    VOLVO S60 D5 2003
    250,000 MILES AND STILL GOING STRONG.

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    Hi having an issue with my a/c unit. Like this one I don't have control over the fan speed. The temp is fine but if I try to alter the speed it stays the same. I had it into local garage who is Volvo trained and he had computer on it and it didn't show any faults,however he did clear the SRS warning light as I'd not let it shut down properly before taking lead off.
    So to get this thing working ok your saying it's possible to get a second hand unit and swap my facia onto it? Mine seems to be intermittent as I wanted to turn the fan up yesterday as it was warm but it refused to speed up,but this morning after it had been stood all night I got in switched it on and the fan was on at full blast,the setting I had try'd to get yesterday. Thanks in advance for your help.Rob.
    VOLVO S60 D5 2003
    250,000 MILES AND STILL GOING STRONG.

  18. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by robbiedonkey View Post
    Hi having an issue with my a/c unit. Like this one I don't have control over the fan speed. The temp is fine but if I try to alter the speed it stays the same. I had it into local garage who is Volvo trained and he had computer on it and it didn't show any faults,however he did clear the SRS warning light as I'd not let it shut down properly before taking lead off.
    So to get this thing working ok your saying it's possible to get a second hand unit and swap my facia onto it? Mine seems to be intermittent as I wanted to turn the fan up yesterday as it was warm but it refused to speed up,but this morning after it had been stood all night I got in switched it on and the fan was on at full blast,the setting I had try'd to get yesterday. Thanks in advance for your help.Rob.
    Hey Robbie, does your CCM (Climate Control Module) or climate control panel have a 'Auto' button?

    Also, does your A/C blow out cold or rather, is it actually working?
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights


 

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