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  1. #1
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    s60 D5 fuel pump

    does a fuel pump give fault code when its on its way out ?
    my cars (s60 D5 geartronic)is holding back when i give it jip on a incline

    think pump is suspect (filters been changed)

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    What code is it giving and which pump do you suspect? Tank or HP fuel pump?

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    so many sensors on diesels these days that i doubt its the pump. if the intank pump if knackered the car wont run. if it was the hp pump then the car woulnt run either as teh injectors would be full of iron off the pump breaking down. it would be worn injectors sticky vains in turbo. cam sensor crank sensor the list gose on. get the codes read. you cant guess faults on these cars
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    Wouldn't rule out a boost leak tbh

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by graemewelch View Post
    if the intank pump if knackered the car wont run.
    Not true.

    My D5 started and ran fine with a knackered in tank pump, didn't give any fault codes either.

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    jodiexii (Thursday 12th December 2013)

  7. #6
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    Still more fettling needed,
    will it never end?
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    Also check the EGR valve.

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    ...here we go again...
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    If the in tank fuel pump is playing up then you can easily check the pump is working correctly by checking two things:

    1) Voltage on the fuel pump fuse
    2) Correct Amp draw on the fuel pump fuse (in tank one)

    If the HP pump is not working then your more likely to get fault codes relating to 'Low fuel rail pressure' and possibly faults relating to all 5 Fuel injectors.

    All common rail diesel's need at least 280bar in the fuel rail before they will start. You can check this in 'live readings' or on VIDA/VADIS.

    The most common reason for a non start or cut out/non start on a common rail diesel is a faulty fuel pressure sensor or fuel pressure regulator. Both can be checked using a multi meter with thin needle probes into the pressure sensor wiring. Your looking for 5v - meaning the sensor is working. Your also gonna look for 0.5v which will rise to 1.2v on crank. This indicates you have fuel rail pressure. If you don't get the rising voltage then either your sensor is knackered or the pump is shot.
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    jodiexii (Thursday 12th December 2013)

  10. #8
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    problem is car isnt showing any fault codes .
    runs fine other than holding back when half throttle or more.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yosser View Post
    Not true.

    My D5 started and ran fine with a knackered in tank pump, didn't give any fault codes either.
    what problems where you getting with yours ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yosser View Post
    Not true.

    My D5 started and ran fine with a knackered in tank pump, didn't give any fault codes either.
    This has happened to me just this week. Mine started and ran, but felt lethargic and was definitely lacking power, I guess the HP fuel pump was taking the extra load and could possibly have been damaged have I left it longer. My car was going into limp usually when I accelerated onto a motorway but it was inconsistent and would sometimes be ok. The fault code it was coming up with was cem3a03 - Fuel pump. Signal too Low.
    On further inspection the lift pump fuse was blown and when the fuse was replaced it blew that too. I had a used pump fitted to mine for £120 fitted, they are around £300 new from Volvo and apparently you can't buy just the pump on its own from Bosch either! With the pump replaced it feels much stronger and pulls better than it was doing previously.

  13. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jodiexii View Post
    what problems where you getting with yours ?
    Mainly running out of fuel when the gauge still showed fuel in the tank.

    The fuel tank is a saddle type and relies on the in tank pump to move fuel from the left side to the right side. If the pump doesn't work then the fuel in the left side of the tank is unavailable so you end up 'running out' even when there is fuel in there.

    Although Garett says you can't buy the pump, you can use the pump from a t5 to rebuild the swirl pot/pump assembly. That's what I did. You can also buy a kit from PFV - http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=4515

    I wrote a more detailed thread on t5d5 here: http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/22786-d...my-experience/

  14. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yosser View Post
    Mainly running out of fuel when the gauge still showed fuel in the tank.

    The fuel tank is a saddle type and relies on the in tank pump to move fuel from the left side to the right side. If the pump doesn't work then the fuel in the left side of the tank is unavailable so you end up 'running out' even when there is fuel in there.

    Although Garett says you can't buy the pump, you can use the pump from a t5 to rebuild the swirl pot/pump assembly. That's what I did. You can also buy a kit from PFV - http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=4515

    I wrote a more detailed thread on t5d5 here: http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/22786-d...my-experience/
    Is the kit hard to fit ?
    Use car for work


 

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