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  1. #21
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    Iraq Lobster
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    Flange
    just the one will do nicely

  2. #22
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    ...here we go again...
    LeeT5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesy12345 View Post
    just the one will do nicely
    Although flanges are always better!
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  3. #23
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    Still more fettling needed,
    will it never end?
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    "I've got cream all over my sugar tits...."
    Is that what you call your Moobs?

  4. #24
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    Filth....pure filth


  5. #25
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    ...here we go again...
    LeeT5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stephenevans99 View Post
    Getting confused...lol

    I always the understood the Heater Control Panel to be the CCM (Climate Control Module) and the module located under the dash as the CEM (Central Electronic Module).
    That is precisely correct.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Harvey (Wednesday 27th November 2013),stephenevans99 (Wednesday 27th November 2013)

  7. #26
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    V70-R-T5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stephenevans99 View Post
    Getting confused...lol

    I always the understood the Heater Control Panel to be the CCM (Climate Control Module) and the module located under the dash as the CEM (Central Electronic Module).
    Thanks guys, every days a school day. My reasoning was that every time I looked on line for a solution to the problem, that was the descriptor for the ECC....doh !!..CCM.....whatever, you know what I mean.
    http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=10521&dateline=138532  2015

  8. #27
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    228k and still not broke it!

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    see.... sugartits
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

  9. #28
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    For anyone interested:

    I too broke the thermistor on my CCM part number 8651242. I ordered a second hand replacement off eBay that looked IDENTICAL and when it arrived it happened to be a different part number (9452368). Tried plugging this unit in and I got some but not all of my functions back.

    The way I cured the problem was to remove the thermistor from the second hand unit and solder it to my original unit. This has now fixed the problem and the CCM operates fully again.
    Sorry, nothing Swedish here...

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  11. #29
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    The thermistor required is a 10kohm NTC thermistor, you can get them from places like Maplin or Farnell (though maplin don't have any 10k in stock)

    or some on ebay
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221268692933
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

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  13. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave View Post
    The thermistor required is a 10kohm NTC thermistor, you can get them from places like Maplin or Farnell (though maplin don't have any 10k in stock)

    or some on ebay
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221268692933
    This is probably the easiest way if you break the thermistor ^^^ just solder a new one.
    Sorry, nothing Swedish here...

  14. #31
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    Hi folks, I'm new to this forum but would like to say thanks to James T5 , V70-R-T5 and Dangerous Dave for their posts.
    Yesterday, it being a nice day albeit cold (in other words sunny) I decided to have a look at the cup holder on the dash. It gave up the ratchety bit many many years ago.
    Anyway in order to get at it you have to take the AC panel and the radio panel out first as its connected by clips to the radio housing.
    I didn't get it fixed in the end - some bit must have broken off inside. The point of this post however is not about the cupholder but about the Climate Control Module (aka Heater control panel).
    When I fitted it back I noticed a bit of fluff in the thermistor housing and having just washed and cleaned the car I thought I'd get the tweezers out to remove the fluff. It was not fluff as I found out but a filter over the thermistor. One broken thermistor later and the AC unit refused to light up. I noticed also that the radio was not producing any sound although the display was working.
    Digging out the manual to the fuse section I pulled the one I thought most likely to be the problem - big mistake. Now I had a SRS Airbag Warning light. I think it was fuse 30 or 31 - a yellow 30A one.

    Thats when I found this thread. I ordered some 10k thermistors off ebay last night. Today I thought what's a thermistor but a resistor who's resistance gets less as it gets hotter. I figure the board isn't concerned about the characteristics of it but the actual resistance so this afternoon I dismantled the whole assembly and removed the broken thermistor and stuck a 10 resistor in its place. (This time I did disconnect the battery first, something I should have done yesterday), all back together, battery connected and hey presto it all works. How chuffed am I.
    On my way home from work I called in to my regular mechanic, explained about the airbag light, "do you want me to look at it" he said, 5 minutes later it was cleared.
    Oh and the radio sound was due to the speaker lead falling out.
    Its nice when you get stuff fixed and you did it yourself (with a little help from your friends )

    I took some photos to add to James collection above in the belief that it may someday sate someones curiosity as to whats inside the panel.

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    pcb side. I took the lid off the can to see whats inside.

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    silkscreen side

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    rear of heater control panel

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    you can see the 10k resistor clearly although I didn't break the grill of the vent - it was done a long time ago - lets you see the resistor clearly though!


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    when I took the panel apart this curiously shaped insulator fell out. I couldn't see where it could have fitted or what it may have covered. In the end I didn't fit it, it was between the back of the unit and the pcb side , the back of the unit is plastic - whats it going to short ?
    If anyone does know where it goes I'd like to know,

  15. #32
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    Glad you found the information useful matey. That's what the forum is all about!
    1996 Olive Green 850 AWD - Follow the Project - Forged rods, 19T, big blue injectors, 960 TB, 3.25" MAF, Ostrich, 608 binary, arduino data display, active exhaust control with Focus RS tips, 320mm front brake conversion.
    1996 Nautic Blue 850 AWD - Failed its MOT, now it's a donor for the green thing.
    2004 Sapphire Black S60 D5 - The new daily hack.

  16. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesT5 View Post
    I seem to be making up for a lack of posts over the last few months, those of you who follow my facebook updates will be pretty much up to speed on all of the mishaps and changes, but for the rest of you who aren't, here was another costly mistake of mine. Some of you will be well aware of this potential problem for one reason or another but for those less technically minded (like myself), a word of warning when servicing or cleaning the CCM.

    Some background... Since I had the car the button for directing the air flow to the feet had been 'stuck inwards' (see photo) and was jammed, no matter what I did it wouldn't release so I decided to take the damn thing out, dismantle it and sort this annoying issue once and for all. Once I'd fiddled about and worked out how to fix it, I also decided to clean the fluff out of that temperature sensor grill on the front of the unit as well as clean the fan up inside as well because it was clogged with dust and was annoying me also.





    So I found out that the button was jammed in because some plonker had managed to get some brown sticky substance in the button at some point, possibly a coffee or something judging by the colour of it. I managed to clean it all out and put the buttons all back together nicely, then put the circuit board back in before turning my attention to that dusty aperture leading to that grill thing on the front.



    Now, me being me, I decided to poke a screwdriver through and gently prise out the dust. Big mistake! I ended up snapping the little thermistor in there just behind the grill and the result of this should you ever do it is a total failure of your CCM (as I quickly found out myself).



    So, after kicking myself for a few hours and trying to fruitlessly resolder the damn thing (which is also pointless by the way but I was desperate), I conceded defeat, hopped on to fleabay and purchased a replacement unit using the part number on my old one.

    The unit turned up a couple of days later and was basically the same apart from the buttons on the bottom were missing on the new unit (see photo - the original casing is the top one of the two). As swapping the buttons over would involve removal of the circuit board anyway, I decided it might just be easier to swap over the circuit board as this was identical and the thermistor it soldered to the board.



    10 - 15 minutes of careful 'surgery' and I swapped the innards of the replacement unit over to my old casing and then refitted it to the car. Hey presto! No software update or VIDA reset needed and I had a working CCM again.



    There we have it, a word of warning to you anyone thinking of doing this themselves. If I can replace the thermistor in the old circuit board then I'll have a unit that I can sell on, if not it will be scrapped or I'll keep the casing as a spare.
    Hi mate just found your thread after searching for a fix to my volvo problem. Same sort of thing in that i was driving home on a warm sunny day and i whent to turn the aircon down and the fan did not slow down,odd i thought.Got home and turned the engine off and key out and the fan was still blowing,even odder. pulled what i thought was the fuse and it was still blowing,DAMN.

    So the only way to stop the fan from blowing was to disconnect the battery. did this for 8 hours whilst at work the next day and all was good for the rest of the day when i put -lead back on. has been 2 days since i last used it and now its back to staying on,so have to take NEG terminal off everytime i pull up. I two cleaned out the slots but i think the resistor is still intact. so it sound like your problem, do you think a second hand unit will cure it or is there some dark forces at work in my volvo?
    thanks ,Rob.
    VOLVO S60 D5 2003
    250,000 MILES AND STILL GOING STRONG.

  17. #34
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    ...here we go again...
    LeeT5's Avatar
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    JamesT5 is banned from this forum. You won't get a reply and believe me when I say, you'll be glad you don't.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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  19. #35
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    Ok thanks mate. Still not got any joy with the aircon��
    VOLVO S60 D5 2003
    250,000 MILES AND STILL GOING STRONG.


 

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