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  1. #1
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    Mysterious Coolent Leak T5 2006

    Hi,

    I have a mysterious coolent leak only my T5 06.

    There are no visible leaks.

    If I put in bars leak or anything simular it will cure it, but having just drained the coolent and topped it up I don't want to put bars leak in it again, I'd rather find the leak and fix it.

    I'm trying to find a diagram for the coolent lines to point me in the right direction. Anyone have one?

    I do have some dye, but I find the coolant itself is easily visible with ultra violet light.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Cheers
    Sanj

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    Mine leaks at the bulkhead connections to the heater matrix (in the engine bay) it's quite hard to see but you can feel it.
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    How quickly does it lose it ?.

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    Mine had the same issue until 2 weeks ago the expansion tank finally gave up... The leak was on the expansion tank, that had a small crack on the bottom. Check yours.

    V70 2.4T5 M66 Summum

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    When cold, I put in 50 50 coolent and water started car and when it got to temperature the coolent low stop engine light came on, so losing it pretty fast
    Last edited by sanj; Tuesday 8th March 2016 at 07:37.

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    It should be quite easy to see that amount of loss.

    Does it produce a lot more steam when idling than other cars and have very hard coolant hoses when running? If so it may be the head gasket.

    Heater matrix, do you get a sweet smell in the cabin and a film on the inside of the screen?

    Radiator, they are most prone to leaking on the inlet boss in front of the power steering pump so check around there and under it. Also check the passenger side of the radiator all the way to the bottom where the drain is.

    Thermostat, they can leak and leave a mess behind the power steering pump.

    Hoses, your bottom radiator hose wasn't designed to clear a P clip that's fitted to the airbox mounting bracket and they rub through the hose on the airbox mount near the starter motor. Just remove the P clip. The only coolant hose that isn't reinforced is the one from the passenger side of the top of the radiator to the top of the header tank, they split on both ends.

    Header tank, they are prone to micro cracks showing up as scratches in the plastic. lift the bottle up and if possible separate the PAS bottle from it to inspect. Also if the system could of been over pressurised then the cap should be changed.

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    Any luck finding where it's going ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sanj View Post
    Hi,

    I have a mysterious coolent leak only my T5 06.

    There are no visible leaks.

    If I put in bars leak or anything simular it will cure it, but having just drained the coolent and topped it up I don't want to put bars leak in it again, I'd rather find the leak and fix it.

    I'm trying to find a diagram for the coolent lines to point me in the right direction. Anyone have one?

    I do have some dye, but I find the coolant itself is easily visible with ultra violet light.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Cheers
    Sanj

    The Bars Leaks you put in should still be in the hole or crack that it previously blocked as it circulates with the coolant and becomes operative on finding these and will harden in the hole or crack so you should not have the leak even though you have changed the coolant.

    You said it stopped the leak so it should still be the same!

    Whenever replacing the reservoir cap don`t use the aftermarket Black one as these falter use the Volvo Green one.


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    Quote Originally Posted by 960kg View Post
    The Bars Leaks you put in should still be in the hole or crack that it previously blocked as it circulates with the coolant and becomes operative on finding these and will harden in the hole or crack so you should not have the leak even though you have changed the coolant.

    You said it stopped the leak so it should still be the same!

    Whenever replacing the reservoir cap don`t use the aftermarket Black one as these falter use the Volvo Green one.
    I'd be inclined to agree with everything 960kg has said. If you've already used a leak inhibitor and it stopped the leak then, unless it's leaking from a hose join that you can easily disturb, you really are going to struggle to find it.
    I would just fill it with the correct mix of Volvo antifreeze and water, change the header tank and cap and then keep an eye on the reservoir level. If it doesn't go down any more, then what's there to fix?
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    Still no luck in finding it.

    Good point about the bars leak being in the system even though I have changed the coolent. This is not what I'm experiencing tho..

    I cant help but think it's getting into the cylinder somehow and being pushed out with the exhaust gases but without taking off the head I will never know...

    The car is just a weekend car tbh, something for me to rag around and feel some power. I do want to upgrade some parts but wondering if I should get to bottom of this issue before I spend any more money on it, or just leave it, bars leak it and start ragging it again.

    I'm gonna persist for now, want to pessure test the cylinders and coolent system to help me focus my efforts

    thanks all
    Last edited by sanj; Thursday 10th March 2016 at 20:07.

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    Compression test may help identify leakage into the cylinders.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanj View Post
    Still no luck in finding it.

    Good point about the bars leak being in the system even though I have changed the coolent. This is not what I'm experiencing tho..

    I cant help but think it's getting into the cylinder somehow and being pushed out with the exhaust gases but without taking off the head I will never know...

    The car is just a weekend car tbh, something for me to rag around and feel some power. I do want to upgrade some parts but wondering if I should get to bottom of this issue before I spend any more money on it, or just leave it, bars leak it and start ragging it again.

    I'm gonna persist for now, want to pessure test the cylinders and coolent system to help me focus my efforts

    thanks all
    If you've drained the system then the BARS leak will be drained also!
    You don't need to pressure test the cylinders, you need to pressure test the cooling system. It will help to do a sniffer test also, as this will rule out or confirm Head gasket leaking.
    If you pressure test the system with the engine off, then you'll likely hear OR see the leak?

    I wouldn't advise you do any more mods until you have rectified this problem - That would be a very silly thing to do indeed!
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  20. #13
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    don't worry guys I won't be doing any more mods until this is sorted

    I have isolated it a little...

    only when the car is upto temperature does the coolent burn off out the exhaust (you can clearly see steam coming out). At this time the coolent temperature was 98deg... how does the thermostats work on my car?

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    My thermostat opens at 88 degree , so is the level dropping still ?. The steam from the exhaust is hard to say is it from burning the petrol or coolant.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    If you've drained the system then the BARS leak will be drained also!
    You don't need to pressure test the cylinders, you need to pressure test the cooling system. It will help to do a sniffer test also, as this will rule out or confirm Head gasket leaking.
    If you pressure test the system with the engine off, then you'll likely hear OR see the leak?

    I wouldn't advise you do any more mods until you have rectified this problem - That would be a very silly thing to do indeed!
    Sniffer test good shout thanks will do it and report back cheers

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    To be fair, your going to need a sniffer test kit, cooling system pressure test kit and a laser thermostat to have any chance of accurately diagnosing this problem. My advice to you is to get the car to a good garage for further tests.

    Your stat will either open at 88*C or 92*C, depending on which stat you have fitted and also depending on whether or not it opens correctly. This can be checked with a laser thermo probe. Just because you see white smoke out the exhaust might mean you have condensated water accumulating in your exhaust and not nessesarily your head gasket leaking.

    Would be helpful in diagnosing if you can get live readings also. You'll be able to read exactly what the CTS is seeing and not the temperature gauge in the car.

    You really should get a garage to diagnose this for you else you could end up wasting lots of money with misdiagnosis or damaging your car even further.

    Have a look at your plugs. They will tell you if your burning coolant.
    Last edited by LeeT5; Saturday 12th March 2016 at 18:40.
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    Thanks, wise words Lee - i'm having a guy diagnose it for me.. will report back. Cheers

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    so the results are........

    sniffer test was solid blue, no change. There no exhaust gases in coolent.

    compression test without any oil dropped into spark plugs hole was 6 bar for all 5 cylinders.

    compression test with a little oil in spark plug hole for all 5 cylinders was on average 13bar.

    according to good old Haynes manual I don't have any head gasket issues, but i do have worn piston rings, a worn bore and above average carbon build up. kind of expected as It's done 170k miles and is ex ambulance.

    the spark plugs themselves did have some specs of pinky luminous coloring on there showing under ultra violet light... coolent maybe? as that is the same color.

    so what to do next... hmmm

    I also noticed a hissing sound coming from the coolent tank once car was turned off but up to tempreture. also the coolent seemed to hold pressure better while I had the sniffer test squeezed into the coolent tanks opening. I should prob change the cap at least.
    Last edited by sanj; Saturday 26th March 2016 at 00:31.

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    If you have a large coolant loss and no coolant smell in the cabin or combustion gas in the coolant it must be possible to see where it's going. You have a very obvious external leak that you just need to look for.

    First I would replace your cap and bottle but you also have VERY low compression, 6 Bar is right on the limit of not starting. Regardless of whether you have noticed it or not the fuel consumption is increased, performance is poor and it won't start as well as it should.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sanj View Post
    so the results are........

    sniffer test was solid blue, no change. There no exhaust gases in coolent.

    compression test without any oil dropped into spark plugs hole was 6 bar for all 5 cylinders.

    compression test with a little oil in spark plug hole for all 5 cylinders was on average 13bar.

    according to good old Haynes manual I don't have any head gasket issues, but i do have worn piston rings, a worn bore and above average carbon build up. kind of expected as It's done 170k miles and is ex ambulance.

    the spark plugs themselves did have some specs of pinky luminous coloring on there showing under ultra violet light... coolent maybe? as that is the same color.

    so what to do next... hmmm

    I also noticed a hissing sound coming from the coolent tank once car was turned off but up to tempreture. also the coolent seemed to hold pressure better while I had the sniffer test squeezed into the coolent tanks opening. I should prob change the cap at least.
    There is one test you have not performed!

    A cooling system pressure test.

    I have one as I'm sure Tim does too. We would be able to pressurise your cooling system with the engine off up to about 15psi. Then and only then will you be able to look for coolant leaks, listen for hissing noise of maybe a split hose or leak somewhere and watch the needle on the gauge to see if it drops (indicating a blatant leak).

    I did say Cooling system pressure test....not chucking oil down your cylinder bores, which is not the same thing. That is a cylinder Compression check!
    Just doing a sniffer test is only half the checks and only tells you that there is no combustion gases present in the cooling system, which there shouldn't be.
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