Has anyone swapped/replaced their ABS pump or module for one off a different car?
I narrowed my problem down to the module and managed to get a spare for just £12 but after fitting the problem persists - does the module need coding at all?
Cheers
Has anyone swapped/replaced their ABS pump or module for one off a different car?
I narrowed my problem down to the module and managed to get a spare for just £12 but after fitting the problem persists - does the module need coding at all?
Cheers
Sorry, nothing Swedish here...
I "think" as long as the numbers match up, it should be fine. I don't think they're coded.
I suppose there's no way of telling if the replacement is fubar.
Could it be that you need to drive about for a bit for it to notice the unit is working? or maybe the stored fault code needs to be cleared?
19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...
310.2bhp / 333ft/lb
2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
SOLD
Got an old discovery now.
I've just swapped mine over and I can give you some first hand experience of this . The part numbers need to match exactly because if they don't then the interior configuration can be different and it won't fit. Also, the electrical connectors are different on some models too.
Ed, if you need any advice on this give me a shout as I've just changed my unit over although the ABS lights are still on (interestingly!).
Snap - we really should compare notes because we have the same problem. I think a reset on VIDA might be necessary, either that or I'm thinking it could be our pumps that are at fault but it's usually the Module from what I've read.
By the way, I tried disconnecting the battery, both terminals together for 30 seconds (both off the battery obviously) and reconnecting it all but the ABS/Tracs lights still came on.
Some codes don't go away with an ecu reset. SRS and other assorted safety systems are stored differently to things like "MAF - no signal" which will go away by itself or can be cleared using torque etc.
19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...
310.2bhp / 333ft/lb
2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
SOLD
Got an old discovery now.
Might be a VIDA job then as suspected! I'm thinking of getting a copy asap, I've never been opposed to it but purchase capital has always been top of the show stoppers. I've always seen the sense and benefit to having my own copy, I'm not going to suggest anywhere that I might go to get one, however!
for the sake of a £100 just buy vida and be done with it. i couldnt live with dash lights.
s60 2.4 t5 eibach springs,up rated rear anti roll bar, poly bushed wishbones, poly lower engine mount, fmic, bmc air filter, 3" decat, 2.5" stainless exhaust,hlm remap 328bhp,
My RAC pal is meant to be wiping the codes for me Wednesday to see if that fixes the problem.
All I can say for definite is that the ABS/STC still isn't working despite replacing module and I can't see clearing the codes fixing it but I'll wait and see.
Sorry, nothing Swedish here...
I'm not saying it'll fix the problem but there's a chance.
The P2 is a funny bugger.
19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...
310.2bhp / 333ft/lb
2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
SOLD
Got an old discovery now.
It's certainly worth a shot mate!
Plus if it doesn't work I'll just try and resolder the original.
Sorry, nothing Swedish here...
Ed, if you resolder the original unit the lights will still stay on because the issue is a fault is stored and needs clearing. I doubt the RAC guy will be able to wipe the codes because he'll have a code reader just like I've got, and having tried the 'Clear Codes' option yesterday, it didn't work because it may need a Main Stealer reset or software upload, or just a reset with VIDA.
Do let me know how you get on though as I have the same problem.
Last edited by JamesT5; Tuesday 26th November 2013 at 09:29.
The fault (apparently) is produced by dry joints inside the module though - so the solder issue would need addressing first then to reset the codes but I see your point maybe he can't do it, we'll see.
Sorry, nothing Swedish here...
Cleared codes but the lights and fault remain - and I'm sure the codes just reappeared again.
Next is to try my spare pump and check continuity between the ECU and module.
Sorry, nothing Swedish here...
I'm going to do a few more tests first.
The wiring diagram suggests there's a wire between the ECU and the ABS module for communication between the two. This needs checking to make sure it's not a silly wiring fault. Then I have a spare pump which I'll plug in to see if this does anything.
Following that it may be a trip to GRN or Volvo.
Sorry, nothing Swedish here...
Fault fixed.
I can confirm that my '0070' code relating to a faulty pump was in fact a faulty pump and not module as I first thought.
Also, by fitting a spare pump with exact same part number, there was no need for code clearing with VIDA or module reset etc - just plug and play! I ended up using a spare pump with my original module, worked fine.
Sorry, nothing Swedish here...
Leeds_finest (Tuesday 17th December 2013)
On Ed's useful advice and after a chat on the phone a few weeks ago, I tried the advice and it worked for me too. Here's the 'summary' of what I've tried.
My ABS/Tracs lights are on so Ed suggested I plumb a new pump in to the module but not disconnect the brake lines from the old pump, leaving it in place for diagnostics.
The replacement pump which I purchased several months ago and by the way, came attached to a bracket...
13mm ring spanner used to disconnect the brake lines (these were tight!)...
Removed the 3 Torx 25 screws (a Volvo favourite! ) holding the pump to the bracket.....
I disconnected the battery entirely, then removed the red cables attached to the fuse box, the air filter housing and then the 2 10mm bolts holding the fuse box in place (the lower one sheared - nothing new there then!) ......
I then disconnected the 2 pin connector from the old pump and plugged it on to the new pump, reconnected the battery terminals and connector, then the battery, switched on the ignition and no ABS/Tracs lights!
Interestingly, the car doesn't start with things connected up in this fashion, it seems the ECU knows when the circuit is wired up oddly. I've just got to reconnect everything back to normal now and hopefully everything should work out fine and now I know the problem, I can arrange for this to be fixed before the MOT in March.
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