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    V50 D5 power loss

    Hi,

    Yesterday when attempting to accelerate off a round about I lost power, it felt like the turbo wasn't coming in. I had no lights or messages come on, the engine would rev up fine out of gear and up through the rev range while driving it just would take a lot longer to get up there.
    I got it home had a look about the engine intercooler etc and the only thing I could note was oil around an intake pipe. The joint is at the back left hand of the engine, the plastic one that links the maf round to the hard pipe to the turbo. Took the pipe off checked it and put it back on tight and all seems ok with the car now. Could this have been the problem?

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    Yes more than likely this was your problem , best to check all boost pipes while your at it

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    Well I changed the fuel filter as well for good measure did a 300mile trip to the lakes and back last week and it seemed fine all the way.

  4. #4
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    Still more fettling needed,
    will it never end?
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    Definitely sounds like you had a slight boost leak, which is where the oil will have come from.

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    Definitely not a boost leak as it was the pipe leading to the turbo, the oil will be from the breather that taps into the pipe just at the front edge of the engine

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    Finally got down to the problem, the EGR is sticking intermittently.
    I see its on the side of the engine with a mixer pipe at the front and the usual heater feed and return pipes. Is there anything else I need to be aware off when removing and cleaning?
    It seems a big lump compared to the there I've cleaned out.

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    mrp has done a few of these. i think it is quite straightforward.
    it will probably be full to the top of the cooler tube!

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    first take the big metal pipe off and scoop out the gunk.
    clear the big boost pipes connected to it. there's a 25mm (ish) port that the metal pipe connects to, clear that too. and the inlet to the inlet plenum on the head. careful not to allow crap to disappear somewhere you can't retrieve it.

    that's as much as I've needed to do so far but obviously, the more you're prepared to remove, the more you can clean. there's no electrical stuff that can be disturbed while you work so no worries there.

    you'll need gloves and a lot of carb cleaner and something like a butter knife to scrape it all clean.

    it really is a messy job.
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    I guess the box section that runs along the side is the cooler, looks like a shell and tube setup so that will be fun to clean out.
    I had the high flow error up so it will be interesting to see how blocked it is, saying that it could be high flow at a low rpm and still be blocked up solid.

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    So you've never needed to clean back to the actual EGR valve and clean the valves and seats in it. I'm just thinking if I'm going to take half of it off is it worthwhile carrying on and doing the rest

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    i think it is worthwhile doing the valve as well. the reason they go is because the flap sticks up with gunk, stopping the electrical section being able to move it.

    as the egr gasses go in at very high temp, as they cool down it leaves sticky residue.

    same thing where the swirl flap motors go.

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    Well I know what I'm doing on Monday now!
    Think I'll need a new tooth brush as well as mine won't be in a fit state to use again after cleaning it out.

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    Well 4 hours later and the EGR and throttle body are cleaned and back on. Not the easiest job in a v50 engine bay had to remove anything that would unbolt to get more access and even then I had to split the EGR and heat exchange to be able to get them all out.

    I did manage to get 2 cup full of shoot and crap out of it though, I've never seen one as bad as mine before. Cleaned it out with a pot of injector cleaner then a spray out with brake cleaner and as good as new.

    On the plus side the engine note had changed on tick over and sounds better when revved, I then took it for a run and it's like a different car! It pulls so much harder now, I had traction control kick in 4 times driving round the block.

    Hopefully that will be an end to my power loss and limp home mode issues!

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    Well if anything it's made it worse and it goes into limp mode most time I drive it now, still no lights or messages so looks like ill need to get it plugged in and see if its still the egr coming up. Last time there was a ecu not communicating as well on the list, I guessed this was because it wasn't seeing the egr?

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    Hi chris my c30 d5 suffers from the exact same issue intermittent power loss according to the readings from volvo my egr is working fine. Mine has had a remap also I am also getting this faulty I think it was cem signal which I assume is the remap software although im not sure where to go next
    Im wondering whether its some sort of vacuum issue is realise this doesnt help you much but your not on your own :-(

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    I know mine was clear of codes when I got it as I had checked when I got the oil level sensor reset after the garage over filled the oil.

    Mine now has the ecu not communicating and egr high flow coming on, we suspect it's losing its signal to the egr valve but need the fault to occur when we are data logging.
    When I cleaned the egr out there was evidence of water ingress under the positioning sensor as the alloy had corroded up to the bottom pickup hole for the sensor.

    Now it's playing up nearly every time out and happens after a good blast or pottering about town it should be easier to catch on a data logger. So far I've not paid for any of the code reading and the lad has a rolling road he said we can put it on and hook up the pc to see if we can get it to hit limp mode. He said if its the egr he can map it out for about 1/4 of the price a new one will cost me. I'll run it like it is till the new year then get it on the rollers see what happens.

    A vac leak is easy enough to check if you have a vac pump to use or borrow.

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    Did you ever get this sorted chris_bobuk?

    I'm experiencing something similar and the EGR valve is coming off this Friday to be cleaned out.

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    I did get it sorted, even after cleaning the egr out which is a pig of a job to get it out on the v50 it still played up.
    My options were new egr and sensor or get the egr mapped out for a sum of £100 so I went that route and it's ran great ever since


 

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