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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    Indeed he did

    And if I hadn't put my back out yesterday, I'd go out and strip the hub down on my car and devise a way of doing the shoes, by means of making it up to him
    And so you bloody well should have! Without blowing smoke up your arse, you are the most helpful member of VPCUK, so to say I was disappointed by your seedy responses is an understatement. Now go and wash your mouth out, and clean under your fingernails too if you are planning on typing, and come back with some sensible technical replies. Naughty boy.
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
    1999 9-5 Aero (Manual) - Sven

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    M-R-P (Tuesday 10th September 2013)

  3. #22
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    228k and still not broke it!

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    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
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    Got an old discovery now.

  4. #23
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    Right, brakes are done, and I learned a couple of things that might be useful to others.

    EDIT: Apologies in advance, but my pics are quite large, so please be patient whilst they load if you click to enlarge.....

    Number 1 - The reason I was struggling with the big spring is that the new spring I was trying to fit is actually shorter than the old one. I'd actually seen this mentioned in another thread somewhere on the interweb, so it was on my mind to check it. So, if you are re-using your old spring, it shouldn't be too hard (that's what I've ended up doing), and if you've bought a set of new springs, check your lengths (ooh er!). See pic below
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    Number 2 - The way I put it back together is to first of all fix both shoes in position with their retaining springs (the one's that push in through the center), then do the big spring, then fit the H bar (or adjuster, which I'll come on to), and finish with the thin spring.

    TIP - On the first side I still had a bit of a fight with the big spring as I was trying to use pliers to hold it and stretch it up to the top shoe. On the 2nd shoe I found a much easier method, using a long flat head screwdriver as a lever. Fit the spring to the bottom shoe, pass it between the hub and the expander, then put the blade of the screwdriver in the hook at the top of the spring, lay the screwdriver over the top of the hub and lever against it until the spring pops in to the hole on the shoe. Remove screwdriver and tap the hook fully in to position on the shoe. Job jobbed. See piccys....
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    As noted earlier in this thread, you can replace the H bar with adjusters. Having read of other people still struggling to pass their MOT with all new parts, and with my MOT Failure being the reason for doing this (11% efficiency) I thought it would be prudent to fit the adjusters rather than take any chances. They go on easy, and are a piece of cake to adjust through a wheel bolt hole. I've no way to compare before and after since I've replaced the disks and shoes at the same time, but my handbrake is now pretty solid. At 3 clicks the car won't either forwards or backwards if I ease out the clutch and give it a gentle bit of throttle.

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    Fingers crossed it's enough to clear the MOT on Tues!
    Last edited by Gold 'N' Brown; Saturday 14th September 2013 at 21:08.
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
    1999 9-5 Aero (Manual) - Sven

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  6. #24
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    how long is the original longer spring?
    i might check my kits to see which is in them- it could well be based on the original design.

  7. #25
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    I won't be able to measure the original springs as that would mean taking the brakes apart again, but I'll happily measure the replacement ones I've got (which are about 0.5 cm shorter). I got my kit of springs from eBay over a year ago. In hindsight, using the method I mentioned above of using the screwdriver to lever the spring upwards, probably would have allowed me to fit the new springs. But I never thought to try it at the time.

    It passed the MOT retest. I think it was 19% efficiency this time (up from 11%). The tester said that the NS was fine, nice and strong, but the OS was much weaker and he really had to pull the handbrake up to get enough for the test. I do remember when I set the new adjusters that I hadn't matched them side to side and that the OS (which I did last) was a bit looser than the NS. So I think this goes to prove how essential those adjusters are. I think perphaps it would still have failed without them. I'll give the OS another click or two to tighten it up.
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
    1999 9-5 Aero (Manual) - Sven

  8. #26
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    Having had the joy of taking this all apart again today (possibly the 3rd time since I've had the car) to do the handbrake cables, I'd totally forgotten my own advice about how to put the springs back together, and it's bugger of a job if you don't know the tricks. Anyways, I was watching a very handy video on Youtube about handbrake cable replacement and the guy had a much better way of doing the springs, which I followed, and it saved a bunch of time and effort.

    Get the top shoe on first, pop the retaining spring (a.k.a. Little C***) in.
    Pick up the bottom shoe and attach one end of the thick spring to it.
    Hook the other end of the thick spring in to the top shoe.
    Now try to pass the spring behind the expander whilst pulling down on the bottom shoe to stretch the spring down (this is much easier as you can get a good grip on the shoe and have more leverage)
    YOu do still have to apply quite a bit of strength to stretch the spring far enough but the lower shoe will soon pop in to place.
    Fit the retaining spring to the lower shoe.
    Fit the H bar (or knurled adjuster)
    Fit the thin spring between the two shoes.


    Now, if only someone could come up with a guaranteed easy way to remove the shoe retaining springs (which are still a bastid even when you know how to do them) this whole job would be so simple.
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
    1999 9-5 Aero (Manual) - Sven


 

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