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  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Polybushing Anti-roll bar bushes WITHOUT dropping the subframe!

    You did read the title correctly - I have proven today that the one thing people see as the 'show stopper' for Polybushing their Anti-roll bar on the P2 S60/V70 without dropping the subframe, is in fact not a show stopper at all. I discovered it out of desperation and through my inquisitive nature whilst taking the newly installed (by the garage) IPD polybushes for the Anti-roll bar off, as they needed copper greasing before being reinstalled.

    The problem is that most people (including myself up until today), think that the 14mm bolt that is closest to the footwell of the car is impossible to take out with out dropping the subframe. Apparently, even the Haynes Book of Lies says drop the subframe but I've proven that is not necessary. A few months ago, some one on here said to me on this subject, "if you find a way to do it I'd like to know how!". Well.........

    Before I go on, I don't deny that IF you have the equipment and the expertise then dropping the subframe makes things easier and quicker. But, like most people if you're like me and have only average tools and average mechanical knowledge, there is a way to remove the bolts from the subframe and then you'd cut the old bushes and clamp off and put on the after market polybushes on.

    So how do you do it? Well, you need a 14mm returnable ring spanner, long arms (preferably), patience and time plus some nimble fingers. You need to loosen the 14mm bolts mm by painful mm (it does take a while but it can be done by this method). When the bolts are loose enough to turn with your fingers, the front one is fairly straight forward, the back one takes a little technique...... you have to put your arm around the back of the strut and your wrist/hand over the top of the steering link gaitor (see photo), then get a finger in with your other hand from the side and gently turn the bolt using both hands. There is enough room for the bolt to come all the way out - it's tight but it doesn't hit the footwell as I always thought it did. Ok, some photos.....



    And just to prove I'm not having you on, here's one side of the ARB with no bushing on it at all......



    Irrespective of whether you have an after market bushing or the original, the issue has always been seen as the bolts and not being able to take them both out. I've proven today that it can be done although it takes some patience and time but will save you a garage bill!

    A word of advice for the less mechanically minded such as myself, make sure there is an equal gap between the ARB and the subframe before you torque the bolts up again, otherwise the ARB will bang in to the subframe going over bumps. The ARB swings left and right so you need to make sure it's centred before tightening the bolts up

    By the way, I think I went slightly overkill with the can of copper slip but the squeaking although still there, is reduced and unlike the garage attempt I'm no longer left with loud knocking noises over bumps.......




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    merc85 (Saturday 17th August 2013),partsforvolvos.com (Wednesday 21st August 2013),ShadeTek (Sunday 6th October 2013),stephenevans99 (Saturday 17th August 2013)

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    Job well done James !!

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    JamesT5 (Saturday 17th August 2013)

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    Well done James, it looks like you have proved, with a lot of time and patience that this can be done.


    The Relentless Pursuit Of Perfection

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    JamesT5 (Saturday 17th August 2013)

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    You will regret copper slipping the ARB bushes.

    When I fitted mine I did the same and copper slipped the ARB bushes only to find everytime I went around a corner the ARB slid through the bushes and knocked on the wishbones. So I cleaned off the copper slip so the bush can "grip" the ARB.

    1996 850 T5 AWD - Self tuned M4.4 ECU with COP`s, B5254T ( S60R internals in a 850 block ) ostrich 2.0 , VXR injectors @ 3.8 bar, K24 turbo with a 6+6 compressor wheel, 3.25" MAF, top mounted Dump Valve, RN Exhaust manifold, 3" downpipe with 200 cell cat, 2.75" Stainless exhaust, Brembo calipers, S60R brake discs, stainless RIP kit, 3" Throttle body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by oblark View Post
    You will regret copper slipping the ARB bushes.

    When I fitted mine I did the same and copper slipped the ARB bushes only to find everytime I went around a corner the ARB slid through the bushes and knocked on the wishbones. So I cleaned off the copper slip so the bush can "grip" the ARB.
    Do the poly bushes on the arb make much difference?

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    Quote Originally Posted by oblark View Post
    You will regret copper slipping the ARB bushes.

    When I fitted mine I did the same and copper slipped the ARB bushes only to find everytime I went around a corner the ARB slid through the bushes and knocked on the wishbones. So I cleaned off the copper slip so the bush can "grip" the ARB.
    According to Chad, the bushes should be greased.

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    Quote Originally Posted by merc85 View Post
    Do the poly bushes on the arb make much difference?
    I think so, there is slightly less roll and front end feels a little firmer. I've got to get the wishbones powerflexed fairly soon as both my front wheels are 'snaking' under heavy breaking or acceleration because the bushing is starting to de-laminate from the casing!

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    Quote Originally Posted by merc85 View Post
    Do the poly bushes on the arb make much difference?
    It`s hard to tell as I`ve poly bushed the wish bones which stiffened the suspension

    1996 850 T5 AWD - Self tuned M4.4 ECU with COP`s, B5254T ( S60R internals in a 850 block ) ostrich 2.0 , VXR injectors @ 3.8 bar, K24 turbo with a 6+6 compressor wheel, 3.25" MAF, top mounted Dump Valve, RN Exhaust manifold, 3" downpipe with 200 cell cat, 2.75" Stainless exhaust, Brembo calipers, S60R brake discs, stainless RIP kit, 3" Throttle body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by oblark View Post
    It`s hard to tell as I`ve poly bushed the wish bones which stiffened the suspension
    same here lol, doh.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesT5 View Post
    According to Chad, the bushes should be greased.
    From my experience they shouldn`t be greased

    1996 850 T5 AWD - Self tuned M4.4 ECU with COP`s, B5254T ( S60R internals in a 850 block ) ostrich 2.0 , VXR injectors @ 3.8 bar, K24 turbo with a 6+6 compressor wheel, 3.25" MAF, top mounted Dump Valve, RN Exhaust manifold, 3" downpipe with 200 cell cat, 2.75" Stainless exhaust, Brembo calipers, S60R brake discs, stainless RIP kit, 3" Throttle body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by oblark View Post
    From my experience they shouldn`t be greased
    Most suppliers recommend it so I'll see how it goes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesT5 View Post
    Most suppliers recommend it so I'll see how it goes.
    That all you can do

    1996 850 T5 AWD - Self tuned M4.4 ECU with COP`s, B5254T ( S60R internals in a 850 block ) ostrich 2.0 , VXR injectors @ 3.8 bar, K24 turbo with a 6+6 compressor wheel, 3.25" MAF, top mounted Dump Valve, RN Exhaust manifold, 3" downpipe with 200 cell cat, 2.75" Stainless exhaust, Brembo calipers, S60R brake discs, stainless RIP kit, 3" Throttle body,

  17. #13
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    Tested it out today on the road and I've definitely got flatter cornering although there is still some squeaking going on at times. Overall, I think it's well worth the effort!

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    That seems like a bit of a piss poor design oversight by Volvo The only other car I've ever changed ARB bushes on had a bulge in the bar to locate the bush against so it would stay in place, and obviously once clamped down it couldn't move side to side.

    Might be a bit pikey, but what about putting jubilee clips around the bar either side of one bush so it can't move?
    2001 V70 T5 (Manual) - The Turnip
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    Got to do my rear arb bushes. Is it as straight forward? Is it possible just to replace the rubber bushes with one ebay ones or do I need to get the poll bush kit with brackets

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    Quote Originally Posted by T5REU View Post
    Got to do my rear arb bushes. Is it as straight forward? Is it possible just to replace the rubber bushes with one ebay ones or do I need to get the poll bush kit with brackets
    You can't buy just the rubber bushes, if you want rubber you'll have to buy a whole new Anti-roll bar from Volvo as the bushes come vulcanised to the bar. I know, annoying isn't it!

    Buy the IPD ones from Parts For Volvos and fit them yourself, it won't be easy but worth it in the end.

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    powerflex include copaslip with all of their bush kits.

    the only polybushes i have seen prematurely fail have been those not greased, so it caused the bush to be broken up by the friction.

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    This is a brilliant write up, thanks. Just the other day I saw that mine was beginning to split and I thought "How on earth will I get to that?!"

    Reesky
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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesT5 View Post
    You can't buy just the rubber bushes, if you want rubber you'll have to buy a whole new Anti-roll bar from Volvo as the bushes come vulcanised to the bar. I know, annoying isn't it!

    Buy the IPD ones from Parts For Volvos and fit them yourself, it won't be easy but worth it in the end.
    For those that want to stick with rubber,I fitted THESE to my T5, (not the easiest job but do-able). Don't worry that they are coming all the way from Latvia, they arrived within 3 days and had them both done in about two and a half hours and at 10.99 it beats the £176 +VAT from Volvo for a new rear ARB assembly.
    Last edited by V70-R-T5; Tuesday 26th November 2013 at 22:13.
    http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=10521&dateline=138532  2015

  25. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by V70-R-T5 View Post
    For those that want to stick with rubber,I fitted THESE to my T5, (not the easiest job but do-able). Don't worry that they are coming all the way from Latvia, they arrived within 3 days and had them both done in about two and a half hours.
    Thing is, why would you want rubber when polyurethane is far superior? Seems a bit of a backwards way of doing things to me....


 

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