You did read the title correctly - I have proven today that the one thing people see as the 'show stopper' for Polybushing their Anti-roll bar on the P2 S60/V70 without dropping the subframe, is in fact not a show stopper at all. I discovered it out of desperation and through my inquisitive nature whilst taking the newly installed (by the garage) IPD polybushes for the Anti-roll bar off, as they needed copper greasing before being reinstalled.
The problem is that most people (including myself up until today), think that the 14mm bolt that is closest to the footwell of the car is impossible to take out with out dropping the subframe. Apparently, even the Haynes Book of Lies says drop the subframe but I've proven that is not necessary. A few months ago, some one on here said to me on this subject, "if you find a way to do it I'd like to know how!". Well.........
Before I go on, I don't deny that IF you have the equipment and the expertise then dropping the subframe makes things easier and quicker. But, like most people if you're like me and have only average tools and average mechanical knowledge, there is a way to remove the bolts from the subframe and then you'd cut the old bushes and clamp off and put on the after market polybushes on.
So how do you do it? Well, you need a 14mm returnable ring spanner, long arms (preferably), patience and time plus some nimble fingers. You need to loosen the 14mm bolts mm by painful mm (it does take a while but it can be done by this method). When the bolts are loose enough to turn with your fingers, the front one is fairly straight forward, the back one takes a little technique...... you have to put your arm around the back of the strut and your wrist/hand over the top of the steering link gaitor (see photo), then get a finger in with your other hand from the side and gently turn the bolt using both hands. There is enough room for the bolt to come all the way out - it's tight but it doesn't hit the footwell as I always thought it did. Ok, some photos.....
And just to prove I'm not having you on, here's one side of the ARB with no bushing on it at all......
Irrespective of whether you have an after market bushing or the original, the issue has always been seen as the bolts and not being able to take them both out. I've proven today that it can be done although it takes some patience and time but will save you a garage bill!
A word of advice for the less mechanically minded such as myself, make sure there is an equal gap between the ARB and the subframe before you torque the bolts up again, otherwise the ARB will bang in to the subframe going over bumps. The ARB swings left and right so you need to make sure it's centred before tightening the bolts up
By the way, I think I went slightly overkill with the can of copper slip but the squeaking although still there, is reduced and unlike the garage attempt I'm no longer left with loud knocking noises over bumps.......
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