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    Volvo 940 lpt torslanda tuning

    Hi all,
    My name is Damian from Watford.I have just purchased(well,i pick it up on Saturday) a 1998 940 Torslanda and have a few questions regarding tuning.I am no stranger to performance cars and turbocharged cars having owned a Pulsar GTI-R,Skyline GT-R and currently a Nissan 180SX which is really a daily drifter.I decided to buy the 940 for several reasons 1.RWD 2.Tunability 3.Stealth 4.Cheapness 5. build quality 6.it's a bit different!The car has 109.00 original miles with a full history.I would like to for the time being,until I decide if I really like the car or not tweak it by performing the usual HPT mod to get it moving a bit better!What I would like to know is am I better off simply buying a MBC,a boost guage and a wideband lambda and whack it up to 10-12 psi(cheap option) or I have seen a kit by BSR which contains a chip,uprated actuator needle and is rated at 205bhp.I understand the ecu 'learns' and therefore compensates for higher boost so would I be wasting time with the BSR kit and is the chip really necessary at this level of tune?Also does anyone know of any Volvo performance specialists that know what they are talking about in the South East as I am having no luck on the net.Keep turning up 'tuning specialists' who simply upload maps through a laptop.I spoke to one very helpful guy but couldn't answer all my questions.Also as a result I think I will probably do some work to the suspension to try and give it more sporting pretensions-Does anyone know of a good combo for fast road use?I understand Bilstiens are the way forward for shocks does anyone know of any springs that work well them?Finally are there any brake upgrades available using just Volvo parts from another model?Oh,and off the top of their heads does anyone know the price of the ttv flywheel roughly?sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance for any help!
    Damo

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    That's a big right up mate.if you give an idea what power levels your looking for then some of the members might be able to give you some sound advice mate

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    Quote Originally Posted by smithy View Post
    That's a big right up mate.if you give an idea what power levels your looking for then some of the members might be able to give you some sound advice mate
    Thanks for the reply mate,I was thinking around 200bhp to start with as if I am correct this is all the dual mass flywheel will stand.If I like the car enough I will look into turbos,injectors,a cam and an exhaust etc to look for nearer 300bhp after sorting the trans hence my question about the ttv flywheel.
    cheers
    Damo

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    I have a 940 too mate are you voc too if so the are some dyno vids on the first page on the performance section .have a watch but it is only mildly modded though so you are allowed to laugh

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    Quote Originally Posted by smithy View Post
    I have a 940 too mate are you voc too if so the are some dyno vids on the first page on the performance section .have a watch but it is only mildly modded though so you are allowed to laugh

    No not on VOC,sorry!I have read with interest the posts about your car,it sounds awesome!so what do you reckon is the way to go for some basic tuning for now?MBC or BSR kit?I have no doubt I will be picking your brain lots if you don't mind?!I can see me getting carried away as I usually do!While I am here,do you know what the deal is with the diff on my car?it should be a locker according to the year.What does this mean and how does it work?is it a l.s.d?
    many thanks
    Damo

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    The diff locks up to 25mph and then unlocks .but the are 4 different diff sizes mate depending on what you want to use the car for.best check what diff you have first by looking at the sticker that sits on the diff tube n/s .it will say 1031/1041 and the diff size too.the are cheap ways to increase power and expensive ways but its up to you witch way you go.and the clutch will take 250 bhp mate sometimes more depending on turbo .
    Last edited by smithy; Wednesday 15th May 2013 at 00:36.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smithy View Post
    The diff locks up to 25mph and then unlocks .but the are 4 different diff sizes mate depending on what you want to use the car for.best check what diff you have first by looking at the sticker that sits on the diff tube n/s .it will say 1031/1041 and the diff size too.the are cheap ways to increase power and expensive ways but its up to you witch way you go.and the clutch will take 250 bhp mate sometimes more depending on turbo .
    Ah o.k I see.So the diff mod which can be done will convert it into a permanently locked diff a bit like a welded one?Will take a look when I get the car.Do you have any good suspension suggestions?

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    ignore the BSR kit, buy what you have already mentioned (boost guage, MBC, afr guage). Get onto turbobricks and look for user 'thelostartof', he sells ecu and ignition module chips to effectively remap your car (and yes the ecu learns ). Look about for a td04-16t or bigger as they're more or less a straight fit to a redblock. Cam wise, Mr smithy above has went above 300bhp on the standard T cam so it'll do until you get there
    945 - being fettled
    nissan cube -

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    nice one,that is useful to know.I doubt if I would go above 300bhp,but you never know!What car would I find those turbos on and what mods would it need to fit?would I need different chips for a different turbo and/or bigger injectors?or do the chips just prepare the fuel/ignition for more boost whatever the turbo?is 250 bhp achievable with a turbo swap,MBC,and chips?and maybe an exhaust/filter?do you happen to know if de-cat pipes work on these?sorry for all the questions at once!
    Damo

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    Yes the decaf does work aslong as you have a friendly mot person or pt a racecat on it and also lose the rear box and that will give you a few more ponys too.a 16t is a good turbo on a redblock but you will have to clock it and fit a flat flange on your downpipe off a 850/70 series .chips of tloa will take the boost limit off or you could fit a 3in maf and bigger injectors and that will raise the boost limit too.my car had no chips just stock ecus

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    Quote Originally Posted by smithy View Post
    Yes the decaf does work aslong as you have a friendly mot person or pt a racecat on it and also lose the rear box and that will give you a few more ponys too.a 16t is a good turbo on a redblock but you will have to clock it and fit a flat flange on your downpipe off a 850/70 series .chips of tloa will take the boost limit off or you could fit a 3in maf and bigger injectors and that will raise the boost limit too.my car had no chips just stock ecus
    nice one,sorry but what does 'clocking' a turbo entail?I have never heard that expression before!What car originally comes with a 16t?I have just put my 180sx up for sale ,if it goes will have a bit of dough to throw straight at the brick!

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    Clocking means that the 16t is for a fwd Volvo and it has to have the compressor housing turned and the core too so it will be the same position as the turbo on your car now .or you could just fit a t34 and do the suporting mods and have some mad fun lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smithy View Post
    Clocking means that the 16t is for a fwd Volvo and it has to have the compressor housing turned and the core too so it will be the same position as the turbo on your car now .or you could just fit a t34 and do the suporting mods and have some mad fun lol.
    that sounds kinda long winded!!What is a t34?is that a cossie turbo?this is where I start getting confused!!by supporting mods you mean exhaust/downpipe/injectors etc?

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    clocking the turbo is easy good fellow, the hardest part is getting circlip pliers big enough to pull the circlip out.

    3'' exhaust is ready available from JT avgastecknik (www.jt-tuning.se/shop/), injectors wise ask mr smith. I got a set of volvo c70 ME7 injectors. Don't go down the cosworth '803' route as they're an older less efficient style of injector (single hole outlet whereas ME7 has 4 outlets)

    usually a volvo c/s 70 comes with the turbo but ebay 'volvo 16t' and something should appear, they're fairly cheap and seem to be reasonably strong.

    Out of interest is there much work done to the 180? Thinking of buying a 180 or a soarer (drifting bug has bitten hard)
    945 - being fettled
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    thanks everyone for replies.I picked the car up on Thursday night and have been familiarising myself with it over last couple of days.I like a lot of aspects of it but not so hot on others.the first thing I would need to address in order to keep the car would be to do something about the horrendous body roll!!I was wondering if I would be able to uprate the ARB and polybush the whole front and rear ends without replacing the springs and dampers as I would quite like to retain the standard ride height for now and after rattling around on board stiff coilovers for the last 2 years its a pleasant change at the moment.does anyone know if Eibach do a ARB kit or does everyone fit ipd?I was wondering whether this would be enough to give it tighter handling and eliminate the 'roll'?Also found a place that does uprated engine mounts £120 a pair which I think I would need to do as the ones in the car feel weak.Power wise I am going to MBC and lambda it up for now and until I decide if it is a keeper or not.Redbaron,the 180 had pretty much everything modified!stock engine and ecu but pretty much everything else uprated!It was a brilliant drift car but a pain at times on the road.I am gonna take a break from drifting but it is very addictive and I need a fix already!!already had a play in the brick but suspension far too soft.A part ofme wants too slam it on coilovers and weld the diff,whack the power up to 300bhp and see what it can do!!when I return to drifting I would like a S15 Silvia,the ultimate drift weapon imo.Soares are nice,more stable and reliable than the Nissans.Here is a pic of the 180



    Smithy,nice one I am sure I will give you a shout in the near future
    Last edited by deeman; Saturday 18th May 2013 at 20:28.

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    Ipd bar kit mate and polybush the front end.but a decent set of shocks go a long way too.if you have a 1041 diff it's a locker anyway and a slight mod keeps the wheels spinning together for longer.if you don't want to go lowering springs then chop a coil off the springs that will lower slightly but stiffen the ride alot.

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    O.k I have decided to get stuck in a bit.I have ordered a polybush kit and uprated engine mounts.I am going to order the ipd ARB kit on Tuesday.I will stick with stock shocks and springs for now as I like the comfort and stealth looks.I will also be fitting a MBC and winding it up to 10psi or so along with a panel filter,leads and boost guage.This should set me back a grand or so and complete 'phase 1'.If I am still happy with the car I will continue to fit shocks and springs,panhard bar and tension rods then a turbo,injectors,chips,exhaust and intercooler to hopefully aim for 300bhp after sorting the transmission to cope.I am looking forward to seeing what can be achieved!I am not sure about the diff as it doesn't seem to lock at all but will investigate further and get some numbers.

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    The transmission will take it no probs but the clutch won't .make sure you do the airbox mod to the inner wing.look at the bottom of the airbox and you will see blocked off port to the inner wind .just break all the plastic off the port and that will let alot more air in .

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    nice one,will look into the airbox today!Sorry,i meant clutch/flywheel

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    I found these 10mm ignition leads on ebay,thought I would share

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1810081054...ht_4449wt_1118

    think I am going to invest in a set before boost hike!


 

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