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Thread: Rust

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    Rust

    Ive got two areas with rust that I think needs sorting asap (also some on the wheel arch lip), Ive been quoted 300 each side which I think is a tad steep especially as I was told it could be more depending if the rust goes through or is sat below the black strip. SO the question is, is that a decent price or way off the mark?

    I would have a go myself but really never done it before and dont want to make more of a mess lol




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    thats massivly expensive mate, 300 all in is more like it.
    problem with rust is it will always come back.
    you have two ways to do the job, grind it all out and wire wheel all the pits out then fibreglass, bog ect.... or if your really pushing the boat out you can lead load it rather than fibreglass.

    or the proper way is to buy rear arch and sill repair sections and cut the rot out and using parts of your pannels weld in new peices, fill and refinish. If done properly using etch primer on the bare metal ect.. then this is the way to go but will cost more.
    also make sure you get to see the recepits for the pannels because alot of shops will do it the first way and charge you for the second way.

    hope this helps

    ps where abouts are you???

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    if you want to have a go your self give me a shout and ill try to talk you through it, being a non metallic colour you shouldnt have to much of a problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by no1tosh View Post
    thats massivly expensive mate, 300 all in is more like it.
    problem with rust is it will always come back.
    you have two ways to do the job, grind it all out and wire wheel all the pits out then fibreglass, bog ect.... or if your really pushing the boat out you can lead load it rather than fibreglass.

    or the proper way is to buy rear arch and sill repair sections and cut the rot out and using parts of your pannels weld in new peices, fill and refinish. If done properly using etch primer on the bare metal ect.. then this is the way to go but will cost more.
    also make sure you get to see the recepits for the pannels because alot of shops will do it the first way and charge you for the second way.

    hope this helps

    ps where abouts are you???
    Cheers for the info, I thought it sounded a tad over priced. Am in York. I would have a go myself but am just not confident in doing a good enough job and ending up with a mismatched colour. As for the ways of doing it what sort of prices (difficult I know) would you expect?

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    well there's lots of veriables tbh, like if you want the full sill and rear quater painting or blown in ( localised)
    lets say for a better job you have the full rear quater and sill painted and you have the first way done i would say between 100- 150 a side or for the second way between 150- 200 a side oviously depending on the bodyshop and the quality of the matirals used.

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    Might be easier to see if you give the area a bit of a clean and take the pics in the morning.

    Tony.


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    One of the bodyshops up here will charge you in excess of 400.+ vat just to paint a bumper.But there wont be a blemish on it when finished.
    Unless you cut out the rust it will always come back and there will be parts that you dont see YET ready to break through.
    If i were you as the rust is down the botton i would do it myself as you will gain nothing in a paintshop
    Ask at a paint factor for advice of products to use as there is a mirad of different ones out there.

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    After spending years chasing rust around various motors I can say that the only sure way of getting rid of the old tin worm is going to be to chop it right out and weld in a new section. Anything else has to be regarded as a temporary measure, it will come back !
    Old Car: 855 T5 in Grey and rust
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    RECENT ARRIVAL: 855 R in Black
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    if you wanted to sort some arches and sills id be happy to attack your motor with a grinder

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    Quote Originally Posted by graemewelch View Post
    if you wanted to sort some arches and sills id be happy to attack your motor with a grinder
    Cheers, looks like its going to have to be a cut and weld job seeing as I don't want it back

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haizum74 View Post
    Cheers, looks like its going to have to be a cut and weld job seeing as I don't want it back
    That might be the reason they priced it at 300 per side?

    Tony.


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    like said above if you dont want it back get it chopped out, and get some good etch primer on there its got very good anti corrosion propertys

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    Quote Originally Posted by jotter22 View Post
    That might be the reason they priced it at 300 per side?

    Tony.
    Yeh quite possibly. Im going to go back now I have a bit more info and see what they say

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    So, looks like I may have to give it a go myself, this happened.

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    The trouble with rust (as already mentioned) is that unless treated properly it will just come back, the crappy BM I've been borrowing of a friend has a teeny bit of rust where the back panel meets the rear quarter on both sides, I've stripped it back and painted it twice now, both times putting a decent rust remedy on it and it's now back again. Best really to either grind it off (provided it's only surface rust) or get it cut out and replaced all together. If you're not in a rush to sort it then try some t cut first, this will get rid of all the orange oxadisation off the paint and just leave you with the bubbles, just bear in mind that the longer you leave it though the worse it's going to be when it comes time to repair it.
    http://www.airbrushartists.org/Gal72..._s_Gallery.asp

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomcat View Post
    The trouble with rust (as already mentioned) is that unless treated properly it will just come back, the crappy BM I've been borrowing of a friend has a teeny bit of rust where the back panel meets the rear quarter on both sides, I've stripped it back and painted it twice now, both times putting a decent rust remedy on it and it's now back again. Best really to either grind it off (provided it's only surface rust) or get it cut out and replaced all together. If you're not in a rush to sort it then try some t cut first, this will get rid of all the orange oxadisation off the paint and just leave you with the bubbles, just bear in mind that the longer you leave it though the worse it's going to be when it comes time to repair it.
    Looking at it and where the rust has come off leaving bare metal it looks as though its just surface. Problem is that while I want to get it done and done right currently out of funds for the car so going to have to give it a go myself at some point. Also wondering if there is anything I can put over the bare metal part so it doesn't get worse until I can get round to doing it

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    If it's just surface then you could probably get it removed with a small flap wheel mounted in a drill, then just put some rust killer on it, prime and paint. For the time being just blow some paint onto it, anything to keep the water away from it really.
    http://www.airbrushartists.org/Gal72..._s_Gallery.asp

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    For small areas I've used a spot grit blast gun with aluminium oxide grit which really gets into the pits left by rust and doesn't wear away the surrounding metal too much (but you do need a compressor to run it). For your exposed bare metal, even a temporary smear of grease should seal it from the elements providing you're not going to wash the car often.
    Old Car: 855 T5 in Grey and rust
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    If that is surface I'll eat my hat. You need to get that plastic off, you'll find that the bit you can see if probably tip of the iceberg


 

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