RIP kit advice please

[Wobbly Dave]

If it was me I would make one out of some 2.5" steel tubing and weld it together

Its not the tubing that is the problem. Those sensor holes need to seal & be at the right depth. My dad made up a saddle but it's been difficult to fit - making the last turn. Its very tight and cannot be done with of the shelf piping.

[V70 Graham]

Its not the tubing that is the problem. Those sensor holes need to seal & be at the right depth. My dad made up a saddle but it's been difficult making the last turn. Its very tight.

Looks like the holes etc on the eBay kit are properly measured, can't see a problem with it tbh

[Wobbly Dave]

There was no kit when I started on my quest - I am sure the kit will be fine.

[dannyboy101]

The only problem is the cost! If a rich member buys a kit, im sure we can work out what we needto make them at a fraction of the cost

[Wobbly Dave]

2 main issue is the silicone turn into the ETM - SFS performance could fab those and securing the 2 sensors & ensuring they don't pop out and make a proper seal. Cheapest method is doing what I did - cut & shut the plastic pipe.

[p fandango]

2 main issue is the silicone turn into the ETM - SFS performance could fab those and securing the 2 sensors & ensuring they don't pop out and make a proper seal. Cheapest method is doing what I did - cut & shut the plastic pipe.

looking at the ebay pics you'd soon be able to copy the ETM bend (135deg into a opposite 45degree), & again following there solution it looks like a thick plate with 2 drilled & tapped holes then welded onto the pipe

[Wobbly Dave]

I thought that. I even bought the pipe - 1 length of 45 degree & a 180 u-bend. When my new engine was off - I looked at using this. Turn is too tight for off the shelf bends. A silicon equivalent is really the only viable alternative unless you had mandrel bending equipment. The main obstacle is the starter motor

There is an alternative route going straight down from the ETM - but it is really tight for space, particularly with a larger FMIC pushing the fan cowling backwards on mine.
Graham might be able to route that way. Heck - I'd even donate the pipework saddle my dad made if he can make it work?

[Wobbly Dave]

This is my cut & shut...

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachme...0&d=1311902864

This is the saddle I had made up...

http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/attachme...2&d=1333584231

remains as yet unused.

[p fandango]

I thought that. I even bought the pipe - 1 length of 45 degree & a 180 u-bend. When my new engine was off - I looked at using this. Turn is too tight for off the shelf bends. A silicon equivalent is really the only viable alternative unless you had mandrel bending equipment. The main obstacle is the starter motor

sorry i meant using silicone for the tight bendy bit. Whats stopping you swopping to an 850 intercooler with the ports top & bottom & doing it the same as mine

[Wobbly Dave]

radiator fan motor mostly - its pushed further back by the fatter FMIC - and lack of time to develop it properly. I actually think your route is more sensible. Going to have another look at it this weekend. It certainly simplifies the route.

[Shadow]

radiator fan motor mostly - its pushed further back by the fatter FMIC.

if you need more space you can move the fan and gain about and inch or 2. . its really easy to do.

[p fandango]

if you need more space you can move the fan and gain about and inch or 2. . its really easy to do.

The factory fan & shroud is a big ugly thing, I'd look into a Kenlowe fan if space is that tight

[Wobbly Dave]

Gap is too tight - what with the main loom sitting on the front of the subframe. I am happy to manage for now as I am.

[graemewelch]

i could get a kit made up and get the fittings profiled or machined. would need one to copy though. be a fraction of the cost though

[Wobbly Dave]

You'd be welcome to copy my Dad's efforts. I think it can be simplfied.