uprated drop-links

[Harvey]

Looking at this photo they have also changed the anti roll bar I would guess it thicker stronger so the next weakest link to go was the tabs welded on strut.

[/QUOTE]
Are they that much bigger to hit the bodywork on lock.

[FIREBOLT]

as you can see on the coil-over thread, only 1 of them is what i would call "slammed". The first pic (who has the highest ride height) has gone thru 2 sets now

Ok then, lower than standard, either way they are still hitting in the same place on all 3 pics. Could be a mixture of things from extra camber (they look like D2 coilovers so probably have adjustable top mounts?) moving the strut closer to the inner arch. Or maybe the ball joints do not have the same amount of movement as oem drop link. Causing them to bind at full lock & bending the strut tabs instead. The tabs look to have been worked back & forth.

I certainly wouldn't have fitted a second set without finding the cause of the fault first.

[p fandango]

Ok then, lower than standard, either way they are still hitting in the same place on all 3 pics. Could be a mixture of things from extra camber (they look like D2 coilovers so probably have adjustable top mounts?) moving the strut closer to the inner arch. Or maybe the ball joints do not have the same amount of movement as oem drop link. Causing them to bind at full lock & bending the strut tabs instead. The tabs look to have been worked back & forth.

they have had contact of some sort, but going by the marks wouldn't say its been repeatative. As you can see the droplinks are different manufacturers, what are the chances of them all having limited movement

I certainly wouldn't have fitted a second set without finding the cause of the fault first.

the first failed after 4 days so was put down to a manufacturing fault i believe

its a shame i've binned my lining, i wouldn't be surprised if there are others with contact marks on the inner wing with different suspension manufactures

[JT]

I have 3.5 degree of camber on the front and the struts don't rub the inner wing, but then again, I very rarely use full lock.
Maybe as mentioned before, what some of us use on a track, won't work on the road

[p fandango]

Looking at this photo they have also changed the anti roll bar I would guess it thicker stronger so the next weakest link to go was the tabs welded on strut.

i'm not sure if they are all running IPD bars. Tabs would be the next weakest if the links weren't absorbing/flexing

[FIREBOLT]

Looking at this photo they have also changed the anti roll bar I would guess it thicker stronger so the next weakest link to go was the tabs welded on strut.

The tabs should only have an up & down load applied to them, these have been bent back & fourth. The ball joints should allow for this movent & not bend the tabs.

[p fandango]

The tabs should only have an up & down load applied to them, these have been bent back & fourth. The ball joints should allow for this movent & not bend the tabs.

here's a pick of mine on full left & full right lock, as you can see the angle movement of the droplink really isn't that much. You can also see that on full right lock it would make contact with the arch lining if i'd got them, but again really wouldn't be enough to bend a tab back & forth enough to snap it

[FIREBOLT]

Just thinking when I last saw this! The anti roll bar was moving left to right rather than twisting, causing the drop links to hit the body. These were with aftermarket bars & were sliding in the bushes. Think they re-made the bars with collars either side of the arb mounts to hold them in place.

[JT]