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  1. #1
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    Unhappy V50 T5 - Oil on top of cam cover??

    Firstly, I would like to say hello to all members and introduce myself.
    Name is Alan and have a V50 T5 SE Sport.
    I have a couple of engine issues and hopefully someone on here will be able to advise me.
    First problem is a judder at idle, hooked the car up to a snap-on ethos code reader, which gave 2 codes:
    ECM-611B Camshaft actuator fault inlet
    ECM-614B Camshaft actuator fault exhaust
    Thought it strange that both solenoids would be faulty, so I removed the top plastic cover to inspect the wiring.
    Then I found a bigger problem, the top of the camshaft cover was full of oil, oil in every recess, around coil packs etc.
    I did notice that the oil breather pipe (in the centre of camshaft cover) was off, so I clamped it back on and started the engine.
    After about 20mins at idle, I then noticed the oil was starting to seep through the core plug disc in the centre of the camshaft cover.

    It looks like a build up of pressure within the camshaft cover and it initially popped off the oil breather hose, but now that I clamped the hose back on, the oil is finding another route out via the core plug.

    Any ideas on the cause of this pressure build up.

    Thanks
    Alan

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    Hi have a look here this will be your problem.
    http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthre...42488-Pcv-help
    Just run engine till hot then pull dipstick if it's steaming away from pipe your pcv system needs looking at fast or you will blow out some other oil seals.
    Last edited by Harvey; Wednesday 25th July 2012 at 22:55.

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    Alanb (Wednesday 25th July 2012)

  4. #3
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    Had an idea that was the problem, got the engine stripped down just now, inlet manifold etc all off.
    Will get on to Volvo in the morning for inlet manifold gasket etc.
    Is there a pcv repair kit or it just a case of cleaning it out ?
    Thanks again

  5. #4
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    PCV mate, if the pressure build-up blows the rear main seal, it's a gearbox off job!
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
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    Got an old discovery now.

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    Alanb (Thursday 26th July 2012)

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    When I did my one I changed the trap,the pipe work from the inlet manifold banjo bolt back to the turbo and all the seals onto the lump
    The small pipe that the banjo bolt fits to will crack with age my one broke as it was removed ,I think the bits came to £200 ish.
    But I am keeping my motor,so just did it all.
    What age,miles on your motor my one went at 77k with Volvo full service history.
    Last edited by Harvey; Wednesday 25th July 2012 at 23:23.

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    Alanb (Thursday 26th July 2012)

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    Thanks for the info, mine is a 2006 (sept) with 59k miles and full Volvo history.
    I take it the breather box/oil filter housing has to be replaced?
    Might as well do it all while it is stripped down

  10. #7
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    Welcome to the forum mate, didn't say that before.
    Have you done the dipstick test? (although the pcv is almost definately the problem)
    The filter housing is out of the way and you won't need to worry about it for now. The PCV should be your priority at the mo.
    Where are you located, maybe another member could pop over and give you a few pointers.
    Alternatively, search the forum for how-to guides, there's several (including mine but it's a bit vague).
    Get it sorted though as fixing the RMS and PCV could be BIG bucks (the clutch on mine cost £430 in labor - the cheap way and it's almost the same procedure)
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

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    I would change the box,all the hose clips are the pinch type ,when you remove the trap box have a good look at the oil way in the the engine block as my were solid dont try to pull the pipe out of the block as this will lead to the sump pan to be removed,
    as Martin has said in this thread somewhere before the banjo bolt it's self gets blocked so give that a good clean as well.
    also the pipe that goes to the turbo (low pressure side inlet)there is a fitting with a plug on it that is a heater to stop ice forming the hole on that is ment to be 3/4 mm dia that can aswell get blocked just remove it and give it a good clean brake cleaner or the likes not a screw driver!.
    Also the pipe is heated by the engine coolant so have a bucket ready if you remove it from the car.

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    Ok, replaced oil filter housing (pt no 31338684), replaced inlet manifold gasket and o rings.
    Cleaned and checked all hoses and reassembled.

    Cleaned oil from top of camshaft cover and started engine.

    After about 20 mins a slight weeping of oil appeared around the front core plug next to oil breather hose.
    Disconnected oil breather pipe and weeping stopped?

    Seems like there is a build up of pressure within the camshaft cover and this is only relieved when the oil breather hose is disconnected.

    Against a brick wall now, any more ideas on the cause of pressure build up.

    Thanks

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    Just check the breather is working run the engine till its nice and warm then pull the oil level dip stick and if any steam comes out you still have a blockage somewhere in the system,the engine should run at tickover with a vacuum.

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    Ran the engine until it was nice and warm, about half way on temp gauge, removed dipstick, no change in engine note and no steam.
    Replaced the dipstick and removed the oil filler cap, there is a slight suction when I put my hand over the oil filler cap. Beforehand, if I removed the oil filler cap, I used to get a slight oily vapour coming out. So hopefully thats that sorted.

    Right, next problem. The 2 camshaft control solenoid valves, showing error codes: ECM-611B and ECM-614b or P0026 and P0027, depending on what code reader is used.
    The 2 VVT control valves are not functioning, resulting in a rough idle, finding it strange that both failed at the same time.
    Toying with the idea it may be an electrical problem, rather than mechanical.
    Read somewhere that a faulty battery could cause this, my battery has been playing up lately, if I leave the radio on (engine not running) for more than 15 mins, I get a low battery warning and then it shuts the radio off.

    Any thoughts on this one?

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    Get the battery tested.,try putting it on charge overnight.
    If you clear the codes do they come back?.

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    Cleared the codes several times, each time the engine is started, either one or both come up again.
    Usually the exhaust solenoid first, then the inlet solenoid.

    Battery is original, so could be on its way out, I will do a drop test tomorrow morning and check charge rate etc.
    Will try a different battery as well to see if that resolves the fault.


 

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