hummmm
hummmm
I'm on the look out for a DLS A6......keep missing them on eBay but one will come along! 1200watts at 1 ohm should light a fire under them!
Already got 2awg running from the back to the battery so set there. Not a fan of caps to be honest, a good power supply as you have already mentioned is more than enough. A new battery is on the cards along with an uprated altenator (probably a custom 200amp job).
Its a never ending quest for perfection!
All sounds good mate!
I really would recommend a cap, the surges you will get will be big, and can affect components on your car, enough farads will keep the hole system stable and safe, for example most hid balasts don't like it and can fail. I've also run a 15" kicker solo x on a dls a6 and scrapped two brand new yellow top in 2 weeks each time. The guy at manbat couldnt get what I was doing, then he looked in the boot he said get a cap or the 27kg yellowtop.... which was not cheap, so I doubled up with some bigger caps 6f total and the third battery was fine... not hissing like the first two lol
Interesting thought on the cap......perhaps more to protect the car rather than supplement the amps power supply. Fortunately, I don't have HIDs but the though of a failing electronics fill me with dread!
First step though, is to just get the front installment fisnihsed up. Passenger door is done but need to get the drivers door mid bass pod done but this poxy weather isnt helping!
Good stuff. I used to be a talkaudio regular for about 8 years, but don't visit very often any more as i haven't changed my setup and have stopped competing.
I never felt the need for a capacitor in any of my setups, even my walled spl panda and my streetbass clio. The streetbasser did run 2 additional heavy duty agm batteries in the boot though. They weighed 47kg each! No lights dimming there
I seem to vaguely remember the resonant frequency for my 855 being around 52/53hz. Firing towards the tailgate does give the best results.
Ed
Thanks for that Ed!
I agree with your point on the need for the cap re power supply to the sound system but Brett makes an interesting point with regards to protection of the car's own electronic system.
I wonder if position of the CAP is an influence with this in mind.......maybe closer to the battery instead of the usual closer to the amp........
You want the cap close to the amp (thats what they say on the box) so I guess they have tested the position, with its own earth (shorter the better)
I used to know a guy that had fixed quite a few cars that a big sub had broken. He went on to explain how extra batteries and caps were essential and not to take any Amps over the cars standard cell as the battery in your cares only meant to run the car, and the same for the altetnater.
And a cap keeps the cars ecu, icm, sensors etc all at the right voltages ohmage etc true..... this can be done with loads expensive batteries, imo a caps got lots of advantages
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