Fitting an IPD boost guage and door pod (P2)

[Al115]

Nice! Really smart, Lee.

I will do something similar soon, but with a SPA digital gauge. Like the look of the IPD one but don't trust it's readings.

[volvokid]

I think Lee needs to stop all these threads because he always gets me dreaming about doing the same stuff!!!

[960kg]

I have emailed IPD about the fluttering needle at high boost. I understand what your saying but i'm not convinced its the silicone vac hose. IPD supplied me with the hose when i ordered the guage. I asked for enough hose to do my install and that is what they provided. If the silicone hose expands under 20+ psi then surely its not fit for purpose?? Why, then, would they provide me with hose knowing its going to cause me problems. They use the same hose on their own installs. The needle is totally stable until 15 psi hense why i don't believe it's anything to to with 'expanding silicone hose causing needle fluttering from 15 - 20 psi'.

I am only trying to help and not hinder!

Companies will supply whatever they have at the time!

When i got my Boost/Vac Guage they supplied 4mm of clear plastic tubing which will not compress between the fingers but they only supply 1 metre which will only reach the engine side bulkhead so how can i read it? because they only supply what they supply!

Think how far your pipe goes to get to the door mounted guage from the left side of the engine as you have gone around the front of the car ( you should re-route straight back to the bulkhead and through a grommet on the drivers side to keep it at it`s shortest) and then with the boost changing per milli-second and the soft silicon hose compressing then bulging and that is why it flutters...think about it as its` true as i had to go and buy some more clear pipe and redo my own.

When i was doing a Stage 0 tune ready for my HLM304 map i put new blue silicon hose on the compressor side of the turbo to wastegate and even that short the boost was all over the place. I went and bought the pucker Volvo rubber hose and the needle is as steady as a rock right up to 18psi and on gearchange will go right back to -24 and back up to 18.

"Volvokid" mentions the fluttering on there guages and i suppose using the same pod. Shorten it as much as you possibly can and use clear plastic hose and see the difference!

[LeeT5]

Hi is the pipe kit for a L/H drive car not a R/H is that why it's to short ?.
Sorry must say nice looking job,lots of info as well.

Yes.

[Dream3r]

Here's mine done last year my MRG

[Dream3r]

Power came from the door wiring via a wiring diagram and soldering iron

[LeeT5]

I am only trying to help and not hinder!

Companies will supply whatever they have at the time!

When i got my Boost/Vac Guage they supplied 4mm of clear plastic tubing which will not compress between the fingers but they only supply 1 metre which will only reach the engine side bulkhead so how can i read it? because they only supply what they supply!

Think how far your pipe goes to get to the door mounted guage from the left side of the engine as you have gone around the front of the car ( you should re-route straight back to the bulkhead and through a grommet on the drivers side to keep it at it`s shortest) and then with the boost changing per milli-second and the soft silicon hose compressing then bulging and that is why it flutters...think about it as its` true as i had to go and buy some more clear pipe and redo my own.

When i was doing a Stage 0 tune ready for my HLM304 map i put new blue silicon hose on the compressor side of the turbo to wastegate and even that short the boost was all over the place. I went and bought the pucker Volvo rubber hose and the needle is as steady as a rock right up to 18psi and on gearchange will go right back to -24 and back up to 18.

"Volvokid" mentions the fluttering on there guages and i suppose using the same pod. Shorten it as much as you possibly can and use clear plastic hose and see the difference!

Thanks, but i will reserve judgement until i have replaced my TBV.
A friend of mine has the same car, same guage and had the same problem. He replaced his TBV and now the fluttering has gone.

Coincidently, i checked mine again tonight.

Readings are: -20 psi idle. - 24 psi deceleration in any gear. Peak boost at 20 psi WOT.
Once i've replaced the TBV i will see what the guage does then. If it still flutters then i'll replace the silicone with Volvo oe turbo tubing.

[960kg]

Guage is reading -20 psi vac on deceleration and boosting at 15psi with a peak boost of 20 psi. I noted that the needle was fluctuating a little between 15 - 20 psi on WOT but i know this is because of a weak Recirculating valve.
That's next on my list.

The needle sits on 0 psi when switched off.

Thanks, but i will reserve judgement until i have replaced my TBV.
A friend of mine has the same car, same guage and had the same problem. He replaced his TBV and now the fluttering has gone.

I think you are getting your Valves mixed up the Recirculating valve won`t cause flutter on the guage as the boost is identical in the hose supplying it but the TBV can do if faulty but changing the flexible tubing is a cheaper first option than paying for the new TBV whichs is £51 including vat as i have a new one because my original had covered to many miles!

[LeeT5]

I am not buying another oe one to go on. I have already bought a Forge piston type TBV. Just need half a day to fit cos there a bit of a pain in the ar se.

[LeeT5]

I think you are getting your Valves mixed up the Recirculating valve won`t cause flutter on the guage as the boost is identical in the hose supplying it but the TBV can do if faulty but changing the flexible tubing is a cheaper first option than paying for the new TBV whichs is £51 including vat as i have a new one because my original had covered to many miles!

Sorry mate but i think it is you that is confused. A CBV (Compressor Bypass Valve) and a Turbo Recirculating Valve are the same thing. It's just different terminology used by different manufacturers.

Look:

http://www.vivaperformance.com/cbv-u...r-v70r-s60-t5/

...and...

http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=6602

The one i purchased was the Forge alloy CBV. Its now fitted with the yellow spring which is for mapped cars and i just need to fit the dam thing.

Also a recirc' valve can cause the guage needle to flutter at high boost due to the diaphram leaking. The diaphram opens slightly and immediately shuts repeatedly open/close under high pressure. This opening and closing of the diaphram is diplayed as needle flutter on the guage. Some people also confuse this with compressor surge. That's a completely different phenomenom and only happens at low revs. This was the fault my mate had. Like i said, he replaced his oe recirc valve and fitted a piston type alloy CBV and the needle fluttered no more. Your help is appreciated.

Unfortunately 960KG (err...don't know yer name) There is no easy place to go through the bulkhead on a P26. It's a bloody PITA.

[LeeT5]

I think Lee needs to stop all these threads because he always gets me dreaming about doing the same stuff!!!

[960kg]

Sorry mate but i think it is you that is confused. A CBV (Compressor Bypass Valve) and a Turbo Recirculating Valve are the same thing. It's just different terminology used by different manufacturers.

Look:

http://www.vivaperformance.com/cbv-u...r-v70r-s60-t5/

...and...

http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/...oducts_id=6602

The one i purchased was the Forge alloy CBV. Its now fitted with the yellow spring which is for mapped cars and i just need to fit the dam thing.

Also a recirc' valve can cause the guage needle to flutter at high boost due to the diaphram leaking. This was the fault my mate had. Like i said, he replaced his oe recirc valve and fitted a piston type alloy CBV and the needle fluttered no more.

Sorry, but i don`t understand mate as you have now mentioned the TBV as a CBV!!!! I call things by there Volvo name and not by a name made up by others .......i do know what i mean and what i am saying.

But you have a Forge one so you need to try the blue spring don`t you???
You should have received three springs when you bought the kit. I believe the red spring may be 18 to 20 psi!

[LeeT5]

Sorry, but i don`t understand mate as you have now mentioned the TBV as a CBV!!!! I call things by there Volvo name and not by a name made up by others .......i do know what i mean and what i am saying.

But you have a Forge one so you need to try the blue spring don`t you???
You should have received three springs when you bought the kit. I believe the red spring may be 18 to 20 psi!

LOL. In the world of engineering a Turbo is a compressor. The word 'Turbo' is a slang term used in the automotive industry and is derived from the word Turbine.
A turbocharger, or turbo (colloquialism), from the Greek "τύρβη" (mixing/spinning) is a forced induction device used to allow more power to be produced for an engine of a given size. It is formally known as a turbosupercharger, as it is a type of supercharger whose power is driven from an exhaust gas turbine. The key difference between a turbocharger and a conventional supercharger is that the latter is mechanically driven from the engine often from a belt connected to the crankshaft.

The benefit of a turbo is that it compresses a greater mass of intake air into the combustion chamber(s), thereby resulting in increased power and/or efficiency.

Basically, at the end of the day, TBV (turbo bypass valve) or CBV (compressor bypass valve) mean the same thing. A recirculating valve is also the same thing because it recirculates the wasted pressure back into the induction side without exhausting it to atmosphere which is precisely what Dump valves do!

A Recirc valve/TBV/CBV will ALWAYS be better than a Dump valve (those stupid things that make the PHHSSSSSTTTT!!!! noise because when the excess pressure is vented to atmosphere there is less pressure in the intercooler and associated hoses. Therefore, the turbo, thou still spooling at around 80,000rpm will have to play catch up to get max boost again. Unlike the TBV/CBV or recirc valve (whatever you wanna call it) the excess pressure is vented into the induction piping and therefore intercooler pressures are maintained so the turbo does not have to spool up as much to reach max boost.

I can't explain it any easier than that but if you read up on how Compressors (or Turbo chargers) work then all will become clearerererer!!!

[LeeT5]

But you have a Forge one so you need to try the blue spring don`t you???
You should have received three springs when you bought the kit. I believe the red spring may be 18 to 20 psi!

if you buy a Forge CBV for a late T5/V70R/S60R...

Forge Recirculation Valve For Volvo
Part Number FMDVK04S

It only comes with 2 springs. Green and Yellow. Green is stock pressure and yellow is good for up to 25psi.

[960kg]

LOL. In the world of engineering a Turbo is a compressor. The word 'Turbo' is a slang term used in the automotive industry and is derived from the word Turbine.
A turbocharger, or turbo (colloquialism), from the Greek "τύρβη" (mixing/spinning) is a forced induction device used to allow more power to be produced for an engine of a given size. It is formally known as a turbosupercharger, as it is a type of supercharger whose power is driven from an exhaust gas turbine. The key difference between a turbocharger and a conventional supercharger is that the latter is mechanically driven from the engine often from a belt connected to the crankshaft.

The benefit of a turbo is that it compresses a greater mass of intake air into the combustion chamber(s), thereby resulting in increased power and/or efficiency.

Basically, at the end of the day, TBV (turbo bypass valve) or CBV (compressor bypass valve) mean the same thing. A recirculating valve is also the same thing because it recirculates the wasted pressure back into the induction side without exhausting it to atmosphere which is precisely what Dump valves do!

A Recirc valve/TBV/CBV will ALWAYS be better than a Dump valve (those stupid things that make the PHHSSSSSTTTT!!!! noise because when the excess pressure is vented to atmosphere there is less pressure in the intercooler and associated hoses. Therefore, the turbo, thou still spooling at around 80,000rpm will have to play catch up to get max boost again. Unlike the TBV/CBV or recirc valve (whatever you wanna call it) the excess pressure is vented into the induction piping and therefore intercooler pressures are maintained so the turbo does not have to spool up as much to reach max boost.

I can't explain it any easier than that but if you read up on how Compressors (or Turbo chargers) work then all will become clearerererer!!!

ahhhhh!.....you were just being clever with abbreviations then!!

I think i have trodden on rather a big nerve!

if you buy a Forge CBV for a late T5/V70R/S60R...

Forge Recirculation Valve For Volvo
Part Number FMDVK04S

It only comes with 2 springs. Green and Yellow. Green is stock pressure and yellow is good for up to 25psi.

Did you know the psi figures given are spring rates and NOT boost rates?

[LeeT5]

Did you know the psi figures given are spring rates and NOT boost rates?

Yes mate. I have already exhaustively researched this subject and the forge CBV. Lots of people have fitted in the states and a friend of mine has one on his R. All have major success and no running problems.

[LeeT5]

Update...

After fitting my boost guage and the discussion turned to the Recirc valve, i can confirm after spending the best part of 5 hours today doing the crappy job, i have replaced my recirculating valve and fitted the yellow spring.

I can tell you that the green spring that is fitted is rated to 10psi.
Yellow is 10 - 16psi.
Blue is 16 - 22psi.
Red is 22psi and above.

I fitted yellow because i did not want any compressor stall or surge.

So far the result seem promising thou i am yet to properly open the car up.

I will keep this thread updated....

[stribo]

What is peak boost for an R?

[stribo]

Here's mine done last year my MRG

That looks great, what boost guage is it?

[LeeT5]

What is peak boost for an R?

Wastegate should be set to 4.5 psi.
I do not know what standard boost is or should be for an R with a kkk24 turbo but i would guess about 10psi.
Remapped i would expect to see around 15-17psi.
I haven't had the chance to open mine up yet as i've not had the chance to reset the ECU. I will do that tomorrow as the Boost pressure sensor and TCV will need to learn the new boost pressures utilising the mechanical piston type recirculating valve.