was it worth fitting then. considering getting one for mine.
was it worth fitting then. considering getting one for mine.
hmm, been talking to Forge & they said to use this one LINK. Whether its different because its to go on an 850 (did tell them its for a 19t) i don't know
I've just bought one of these and I'm planning to fit it soon, obviously when I do the job I may be proved wrong, but as I see it, wouldn't it be easier to try and fit it from underneath the car, looks like better access than trying to attack it from the top, except for the top bolt. Also, does anyone know if you need a buy a gasket to fit this? I can see a big 'O' ring on the back of the device and I would presume that is the seal but, I don't want to start on this job to find I need a gasket. Any other complications from fitting this that I should be aware of? Also, I read with concern someone saying that if you remap your car, you may toast the clutch? Is it true? My car AFAIK is on the original clutch with 84,000 miles up but the bite point feels perfect and doesn't feel even remotely worn, I've decided probably going for an MTE map, which is around the 280 BHP mark and about 420NM torque from what Don tells me, wouldn't have thought that would've put too much extra strain on the clutch, I could see that going over 500NM would probably tax the clutch. Sorry if I've gone off topic but I'm very careful about the kind of mods I do and try not to have knock on effects.
My Fleet; 2000 Volvo C70 T5, 1994 Volvo 440Li, 1984 Vauxhall Cavalier 1.6 L, 1973 Morris Marina 1.3 Deluxe Coupe, 1999 Ford Transit Car Transporter, there are another 4 cars and 6 Motorcycles but these are my dads!
Just thought of the spring inside the valve, I bought the spring kit with my valve, and I know I'll probably need to change it when the remap happens.
My Fleet; 2000 Volvo C70 T5, 1994 Volvo 440Li, 1984 Vauxhall Cavalier 1.6 L, 1973 Morris Marina 1.3 Deluxe Coupe, 1999 Ford Transit Car Transporter, there are another 4 cars and 6 Motorcycles but these are my dads!
You cannot access the CBV from underneath, unless you remove the gearbox. You do not need a new gasket, the 'O' ring is the seal.
Read this before attempting this install. It will shed must needed light. Allow a day to do it incase you have problems. I took my time and it took me 4 hours:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...-%28Install%29
Phone Forge Motorsport, they will send you out a spring kit F.O.C. Comes with extra springs too. Golden rule is if your car is standard fit green spring. If remapped fit yellow spring. If you fit the higher rated spring than the yellow (blue and red i think) then you may experience compressor stall - and that's not good!
That is the correct CBV. It's the same one i have fitted.
Hell yeah!!! Boost is noticeably stronger and doesn't bleed off like mine used to. Plus, because it's mechanical, there's no rubber diaphram to split!
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
red_hot_volvo (Friday 6th July 2012)
Hell yeah!!! Boost is noticeably stronger and doesn't bleed off like mine used to. Plus, because it's mechanical, there's no rubber diaphram to split![/QUOTE]
Ill add that to my shopping list.
I've now installed my new Forge CBV, and I agree totally that the car pulls better, it sounds just like the stock diaphragm one so if you're looking for the 'tshhhh' get an atmospheric one, that's all except readers who have ME7 of course! It took me 3 hours Sunday afternoon to do mine, the stock one was off in 15 mins but a good chunk of that time was through farting around with those stupid allen bolts that come supplied, they fit, but try getting an allen key on them, it's impossible I reckon unless you take off the turbo, so it is currently fitted with 2 of the 3 original bolts which will do for now, I have Stainless hex head bolts coming which are the same length and thread as the allen bolts so hopefully that will do OK, the originals are fine and do thread up, just a bit on the short side, the base is a bit thicker on the forge vs the original. One other thing to watch and it is obvious but something that could be forgotten about, the base of the Forge one is cut out to match the outlet on the turbo, so it has to be orientated correctly or you will get compressor stall. I've fitted mine for now with the stock weight spring, but as I said, I've got the spring kit so I'll need to go through that performance over again whenever I get my remap. I discovered you can get at it from below, gives better access to the inner top and lowermost bolts (on my C70 at least), but you'll get frustrated and annoyed by the water rail and hose which is in very close proximity to the lowermost bolt of the device, I found it impossible to even screw in the allen bolt here. I had an incident though, and I think (hope) it was my own fault, the boost hose at the turbo outlet popped off when I lifted off, I think I must've neglected to tighten the hose clip properly which was a stupid thing to do but I don't think there's any harm done.
My Fleet; 2000 Volvo C70 T5, 1994 Volvo 440Li, 1984 Vauxhall Cavalier 1.6 L, 1973 Morris Marina 1.3 Deluxe Coupe, 1999 Ford Transit Car Transporter, there are another 4 cars and 6 Motorcycles but these are my dads!
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
Correct. When I pulled the angle gear I looked at up the CBV - you have a vague view of it. Not possible to do from underneath even with angle gear out.I am certain access is impossible from underneath on a V70R/S60R due to Angle gear etc being in the way. I have reasearched this for hours on V70R.com.
2003 S60R. RaceS60R 3" DP, RaceS60R intake, Re-map performance remap, FMIC, D5 oil cooler
I've been using the car all week and I can honestly say that the forge valve allows the car to run smoother, and it seems to spool up a bit quicker as well, overall I'm quite pleased with it, just need to see how it copes with a remap now which will involve having to take it off again to change the spring for the uprated one.
My Fleet; 2000 Volvo C70 T5, 1994 Volvo 440Li, 1984 Vauxhall Cavalier 1.6 L, 1973 Morris Marina 1.3 Deluxe Coupe, 1999 Ford Transit Car Transporter, there are another 4 cars and 6 Motorcycles but these are my dads!
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