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  1. #1
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    How many issues at once???

    Hi looking for some help please! On my drive home in VERY wet conditions today the car lurched at one point and I got the orange warning triangle with the errors STC service required and reduced power (went into limp mode).
    Got home and the rad fans were on (strange I thought - as they don't usually kick in on this journey) but the temp looked normal.
    Left it for a bit once home and then started it again, errors went away but now have an engine service light on and the rad fans kicked in straight away. I only have a generic code reader, which shows "Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input"
    Currently going to disconnect the battery to try and clear everything and see what happens, but any suggestions will be gratefully welcomed (I am going to get the codes read properly btw)
    Cheers.

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    Does that code not just say it all. A new MAF?? Im no mechanic but thats my guess
    Thanks
    Martyn

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    iamawookiee (Wednesday 18th April 2012)

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    I know that seems obvious, but I've had the same error before on an S40 and it was nothing to do with the MAF, but I can't remember what it was.
    Before I restarted it and was reading up on the STC error I was thinking it was a fault with the ABS ECU (requiring the well documented service), but now the fault has jumped elsewhere, I'm confused to say the least!

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    Its a shame because I have a MAF you could try but im not at home at the moment. Get it looked at and if it is I could do a deal with my MAF they are 200 new, i changed mine because I fitted a AMS and that caused all sorts of grieve Volvo thought it was my MAF and changed it but it wasn't.
    Thanks
    Martyn

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    Quote Originally Posted by volvokid View Post
    Its a shame because I have a MAF you could try but im not at home at the moment. Get it looked at and if it is I could do a deal with my MAF they are 200 new, i changed mine because I fitted a AMS and that caused all sorts of grieve Volvo thought it was my MAF and changed it but it wasn't.
    Cheers Martyn, I'll let you know if I require it once I've had someone shaft me for reading the codes!

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    Quote Originally Posted by iamawookiee View Post
    Cheers Martyn, I'll let you know if I require it once I've had someone shaft me for reading the codes!
    Post on here if anyone has a DICE and can help you out. People on here do try and help when they can, Im just so far away I cant be helped when I need it lol I need a guy from a toyota forum that my dad uses to help me lol
    Thanks
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    Quote Originally Posted by volvokid View Post
    Post on here if anyone has a DICE and can help you out. People on here do try and help when they can, Im just so far away I cant be helped when I need it lol I need a guy from a toyota forum that my dad uses to help me lol
    Is that one of the DICE / Honda / Toyota all in ones unit? I have been meaning to upgrade my generic thing for a while and those don't cost a great deal on eBay, but I was never sure if they were as good as the DICE only units?

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    Reconnected the battery 2 hours ago, took it out and gave it some beans, seemed ok, but still wasn't confident it was.
    Just been outside again to go for another spin and before I got a chance to go anywhere the engine light is back on and fan kicked in well before it's anywhere near normal running temperature - balls!!!

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    i know on a P1 V70 ME7 engine when the MAF is knackered the fan kicks in and stays on after locking the car
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    Well it is doing that! I might see if I can get a maf from a scrappy as an intrim measure too test with, as it's quite a hefty outlay if I buy a new one and it's not that!

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    Might help if you start by telling us what car your having the problem with?

    Does your generic code reader have the ability to clear the codes? If so, clear them and drive the car again. Check codes after 50 or so miles and see what you get.

    A faulty MAF does not always throw a EML!

    You also should check 'live readings' to see what coolant temps your getting in relation to coolant temperature guage reading. If the CTS is faulty then the cooling fans will come on no matter what the temperature of the car.
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    On ME7, I know the engine management can "panic" and put the fan on as a means of protection. Mine did it when it popped a coil pack and when it blew a charge-air gose off the engine.
    Also, a failing VVT position sensor can give weird readings on generic code readers.
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  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    Might help if you start by telling us what car your having the problem with?

    Does your generic code reader have the ability to clear the codes? If so, clear them and drive the car again. Check codes after 50 or so miles and see what you get.

    A faulty MAF does not always throw a EML!

    You also should check 'live readings' to see what coolant temps your getting in relation to coolant temperature guage reading. If the CTS is faulty then the cooling fans will come on no matter what the temperature of the car.
    Sorry, signature updated

    Issues are on my S60 T5 (2001).

    I have cleared the codes with the reader and it pops back after 60 seconds or so. The live temp readings from my code reader are the same as what the temp gauge shows on the car.
    I started the it this morning before leaving for work just to see if anything had changed and within about 20 seconds the fans kicked in.
    S40 T4 - Sold
    C70 T5 - Sold
    S60 T5 - Sold
    V70 T5 - Now with the brother-in-law
    S40 T5...
    V70 T5 (P2)

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    Quote Originally Posted by iamawookiee View Post
    Sorry, signature updated

    Issues are on my S60 T5 (2001).

    I have cleared the codes with the reader and it pops back after 60 seconds or so. The live temp readings from my code reader are the same as what the temp gauge shows on the car.
    I started the it this morning before leaving for work just to see if anything had changed and within about 20 seconds the fans kicked in.
    When you start the cold from cold do the revs instantly raise to between 1200 - 1500rpm and stay there for about 30 seconds before settling to around 1000 rpm and then once the car is warmed up 750 - 800rpm. if not, its definately MAF.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    When you start the cold from cold do the revs instantly raise to between 1200 - 1500rpm and stay there for about 30 seconds before settling to around 1000 rpm and then once the car is warmed up 750 - 800rpm. if not, its definately MAF.
    Can't remember from when I started it this mornign tbh, it just seemed to start normally and idle was fine, could have just dropped straight down to around 750rpm rather than doing the usual warm up thing???!!

    I'm back visiting me folks in Norfolk this weekend, so I may nip and pull a MAF from a scrappy to see if this works ok and then look at a new one if it does.
    S40 T4 - Sold
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