Lowering your S60r/V70R

[Leeds_finest]

...That's because you never had the latest SUM UPDATE! If you did then the crashy harsh ride is illiminated and the shocks work as they should. I can assure you all there is a definate difference between Comfort and sport.
I have brand new shocks on my car too, so i guess thats makes a big difference. The biggest difference i noticed after fitting new shocks is that the car didn't lul about in Comfort mode. It felt more stable and certainly had a crispness to it. The nose didn't pitch and roll either! Was even better after the SUM UPDATE and calibrate.. Superb!!! is all i can say.

Remember, if your car has done 80 - 100K and still on oe shocks then its time to replace (all of them).

My shocks were working as they should though, the front two were brand new and the rears were fine upon inspection when removed. They are there to dampen movement and that's exactly what they were doing... there is a clear difference in spring rate between the original springs and the Eibachs which I personally felt was unnecessary given the car has adjustable damping.

I'm almost certain that the SR/VR Eibachs are also listed for the 2.4D models etc, which don't have the 4C system - a little poor if you ask me - surely the R models require a different spring than any other model without 4C?

I didn't personally have the latest ECU update, but who knows what's been done to the car between '04 and '11. I reset the SUM as was required through VIDA and I felt that the ride was still too harsh. The difference between comfort and sport was minimal in terms of RIDE QUALITY albeit less body roll etc in sport mode. That's the whole point of a SUM recal, to compensate for the fact the cars now sitting 30mm lower. The car was fine before and was poor afterwards. If the car required an update, it would've driven poor before and after.

Although the >>>>SUM UPDATE<<<< may have helped in your instance, it will simply change the way the struts dampen the movement. In my opinion however, the added stiffness came from the SPRING not the STRUT, there was a clear difference after fitting the Eibachs and so surely an update to the SUM wouldn't change much?

It's only my opinion, people can do what they want, I didn't enjoy buying a set of springs that cost almost £200 to then remove them a few weeks later and sell them for a fraction of the original cost. They also make the 4x4 suspension look 10x better.

The roads round here are full of pot holes and speed bumps. This coupled with the fact that components such as drop links are prone to failure, I think those springs are a bad idea... IMO.

[volvokid]

My shocks were working as they should though, the front two were brand new and the rears were fine upon inspection when removed. They are there to dampen movement and that's exactly what they were doing... there is a clear difference in spring rate between the original springs and the Eibachs which I personally felt was unnecessary given the car has adjustable damping.

I'm almost certain that the SR/VR Eibachs are also listed for the 2.4D models etc, which don't have the 4C system - a little poor if you ask me - surely the R models require a different spring than any other model without 4C?

I didn't personally have the latest ECU update, but who knows what's been done to the car between '04 and '11. I reset the SUM as was required through VIDA and I felt that the ride was still too harsh. The difference between comfort and sport was minimal in terms of RIDE QUALITY albeit less body roll etc in sport mode. That's the whole point of a SUM recal, to compensate for the fact the cars now sitting 30mm lower. The car was fine before and was poor afterwards. If the car required an update, it would've driven poor before and after.

Although the >>>>SUM UPDATE<<<< may have helped in your instance, it will simply change the way the struts dampen the movement. In my opinion however, the added stiffness came from the SPRING not the STRUT, there was a clear difference after fitting the Eibachs and so surely an update to the SUM wouldn't change much?

It's only my opinion, people can do what they want, I didn't enjoy buying a set of springs that cost almost £200 to then remove them a few weeks later and sell them for a fraction of the original cost. They also make the 4x4 suspension look 10x better.

The roads round here are full of pot holes and speed bumps. This coupled with the fact that components such as drop links are prone to failure, I think those springs are a bad idea... IMO.

I think with your copy of VIDA it would of been the latest SUM for the car

[SexyBoy]

Looks nice that lowered, good advice!

[LeeT5]

My shocks were working as they should though, the front two were brand new and the rears were fine upon inspection when removed. They are there to dampen movement and that's exactly what they were doing... there is a clear difference in spring rate between the original springs and the Eibachs which I personally felt was unnecessary given the car has adjustable damping.

I'm almost certain that the SR/VR Eibachs are also listed for the 2.4D models etc, which don't have the 4C system - a little poor if you ask me - surely the R models require a different spring than any other model without 4C?

I didn't personally have the latest ECU update, but who knows what's been done to the car between '04 and '11. I reset the SUM as was required through VIDA and I felt that the ride was still too harsh. The difference between comfort and sport was minimal in terms of RIDE QUALITY albeit less body roll etc in sport mode. That's the whole point of a SUM recal, to compensate for the fact the cars now sitting 30mm lower. The car was fine before and was poor afterwards. If the car required an update, it would've driven poor before and after.

Although the >>>>SUM UPDATE<<<< may have helped in your instance, it will simply change the way the struts dampen the movement. In my opinion however, the added stiffness came from the SPRING not the STRUT, there was a clear difference after fitting the Eibachs and so surely an update to the SUM wouldn't change much?

It's only my opinion, people can do what they want, I didn't enjoy buying a set of springs that cost almost £200 to then remove them a few weeks later and sell them for a fraction of the original cost. They also make the 4x4 suspension look 10x better.

The roads round here are full of pot holes and speed bumps. This coupled with the fact that components such as drop links are prone to failure, I think those springs are a bad idea... IMO.

Just because your rear shocks were working as they should, doesn't mean they were working 100% as they would have been when they were new. They are no different, at the end of the day, to a normal shock: accept for the electrical part controlling the internal solenoid which restricts flow of oil (basically).

The latest SUM update (version 3 i believe) was to further improve the movement/damping of the shock and prevent the shock from 'topping out' hense you would sometimes hear and feel a slight knock, mainly when in comfort and sometimes in sport. Never in Advanced because there was less travel in the shock. When Volvo updated my SUM last year it completely erradicated the slight knock and vastly improved the ride in terms of the shocks ability to do its job.

The end result, for me, was a car that drove like it was new, handled better than ever and no unexplained noises.

If you didn't have that experience then i question whether you indeed had the latest update, whether your rear shocks were performing as they should and that there may have been something else worn or wrong with the suspension on your car.

Bottom line is that my car is now, i feel, as it should be.

And on that note, i'm off to fit my new Forge Turbo bypass valve .........

[s_cowen]

How much does the latest SUM upgrade cost?

[Jimmie]

How much does the latest SUM upgrade cost?

Depends on your dealer.

[LeeT5]

How much does the latest SUM upgrade cost?

It was £23 but this included a 39% labour discount.

Basically, providing all goes well its half an hour + software.

Mine wouldn't calibrate at first because the software wouldnt load so it had to spend the night at Volvo so they could connect it to Sweden early morning to get them to reload the latest firmware then download the latest software to the SUM.

Make sure the dealer check your headlamp alighnment at the same time because calibrating the SUM and installing latest software will affect headlamp levels. They should know that anyway.

[Jimmie]

I'll bet AC charge a lot more than £23 +VAT to do this upgrade.
Check before you book your car in.

[LeeT5]

Here's some pictures of my car with the Volvo Alloy belly protector plate fitted, a vital bit of kit if lowering:

[Jimmie]

It was £23 but this included a 39% labour discount.

Basically, providing all goes well its half an hour + software.

Mine wouldn't calibrate at first because the software wouldnt load so it had to spend the night at Volvo so they could connect it to Sweden early morning to get them to reload the latest firmware then download the latest software to the SUM.

Make sure the dealer check your headlamp alighnment at the same time because calibrating the SUM and installing latest software will affect headlamp levels. They should know that anyway.

Lee;Is that a total price for a can upgrade for software?

[LeeT5]

Lee;Is that a total price for a can upgrade for software?

Yes.

[stephenevans99]

Which eBay supplier did you buy the TPI spacers from?

Cheers,

Steve

[LeeT5]

Which eBay supplier did you buy the TPI spacers from?

Cheers,

Steve

Just search "Volvo 15mm/12mm TPI spacers".
You'll find them.

[stephenevans99]

Thanks.....just wondered if you had a recommendation. I'll probably get them from the seller called 'thenutandboltsshop'.... prices seem right with free p&p and longer wheel bolts for £1 each.

[LeeT5]

Thanks.....just wondered if you had a recommendation. I'll probably get them from the seller called 'thenutandboltsshop'.... prices seem right with free p&p and longer wheel bolts for £1 each.

There the ones.

[Youjutsusha]

Lee with regards to the skidplate (Which I want fitted) Did Volvo say anything about it affecting Manuals? Or is this one suitable for high speed driving with a Manual. (If you search the part number on the interwibble it says that it is not suitable for turbo gasoline engines with manual gearbox, but those only seem to have two NACA ducts. Thinking of getting Volvo to fit the protectors to my R when it next goes in.

[LeeT5]

Lee with regards to the skidplate (Which I want fitted) Did Volvo say anything about it affecting Manuals? Or is this one suitable for high speed driving with a Manual. (If you search the part number on the interwibble it says that it is not suitable for turbo gasoline engines with manual gearbox, but those only seem to have two NACA ducts. Thinking of getting Volvo to fit the protectors to my R when it next goes in.

Basically Volvo recommend it's not fitted to R models only (whether auto or not).
This is because they reckon the R models run hotter and the skid plate will prevent air flow! Nonsense, i say. As you can see from the skid/belly plate i have fitted (genuine volvo one) it has 4 air ducts that direct air flow to the vital components, ie gearbox, transfer box or angle gear. The engine gets enough cool air flow when moving and i for one have not had any 'over heating' issues.
As far as i'm concerned, the belly plate is a worth while investment as it will protect vital engine parts from foreign object damage inc vunerable oil filter.

[Jimmie]

I would not say there knowledge on the subject is nonsense,
The plate will be made specifically for the standard motors only .
The only reason volvo would fit one to an R is if the customer requested it .It would then be up to customer if anything went wrong with any components.
I personally only fit one if i was having to drive up farm type tracks.

[Youjutsusha]

Thanks for the welcome :p

From what it looked like its more sustained high speed driving or AutoBahn type stuff as its a very unique situation in some respects (even though some people drive like that all the time even in the UK) ,

The NACA ducts used I would've thought would be enough to supply air to critical components, and I've already ordered replacement grilles for the front to get some more air into the bay. The only thing that it might stop is air exiting the engine bay that was my thought or maybe Exhaust Manifold Temperatures end up too high (Manifold crack problem/ Turbo crack).

I don't really want to put holes in the bonnet or anything (I don't like the Elevate Grilles). Maybe side vents in the fenders?

I would've thought there would be some aero benefit to having the plate seeing as it smoothes out one of the significantly turbulent regions of the underside of the car.

[LeeT5]

I would not say there knowledge on the subject is nonsense,
The plate will be made specifically for the standard motors only .
The only reason volvo would fit one to an R is if the customer requested it .It would then be up to customer if anything went wrong with any components.
I personally only fit one if i was having to drive up farm type tracks.

I here what your saying but you do get foreighn objects on normal roads and motorways and at 70mph in the dark your lights are not going to illuminate something in the road quick enough for you to swerve. Something you might perseive as small enough to drive over but turns out to be large enough to slice your sump open!! Then its too late.

I know its a one in a thousand chance but at the end of the day it protects your sump and your gearbox. In the last two months i know of two people that had hit objects in the road and wish they hadn't. One of them was an old Mondeo....it promptly wrote the car off because he didn't stop until the engine seized and the other was a bloke in an S4. he cracked his sump but stopped before it was too late.

Choosing not to fit one is a massive risk afaik, especially if your car is lowered.

I think that 99% of the time we only really drive on tarmac roads and not farm tracks, wouldn't you agree?