Yes it is straight forwards but you don't remove the Turbo, just the manifold and turbo heatshields.
Yes it is straight forwards but you don't remove the Turbo, just the manifold and turbo heatshields.
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
Nick0 (Monday 2nd April 2012)
Mine has always had a slight blow from the front & is worse when the engine is cold & I have always thought it was the down pipe, read this thread & decided to check my manifold & to do it I had to remove the OTE turbo pipe & the heat shields & sure enough all the nuts were slack & a couple that loose I could turn them by hand,
Once this has been done how long should it last before they slacking off again & is it worth putting any type of thread lock on ?
My03 S60R, 340bhp Rica remap, Tinted windows, Stainless 2.5" cat back exhaust system, FMIC.
Not gonna say "I told you so..." but as far as the thread lock goes, don't bother. It will be ok for at least another 50-60K before you need to tweak them up again.
Not sure why you had to take the Over The Engine turbo pipe off, i didn't! I did remove the strut brace thou, just makes access alot easier.
Anyway, glad you fixed it. How does she drive now? The improvement is normally instant.
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
The reason I had to take the OTE turbo pipe off was that the bolt that's in the clamp that clamps the pipe to the turbo was rite back against the manifold heat shield & since I had to loosen this any way to spin the clamp so just took the pipe off to allow a little extra room & yes forgot to mention I also removed the strut brace,
Yes the result is instant & turbo spool is alot quicker making the car allot nicer to drive, just fitted a FMIC aswell & it's now a different car altogether!
My03 S60R, 340bhp Rica remap, Tinted windows, Stainless 2.5" cat back exhaust system, FMIC.
I'll be underneath the car as I plan to pull the prop shaft to repack with grease the CV end caps this week. After reading this thread it looks like I'll be tightening the exhaust mani bolts while I'm down there.
2003 S60R. RaceS60R 3" DP, RaceS60R intake, Re-map performance remap, FMIC, D5 oil cooler
2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights
I've read your AWD Prop shaft woes, how to fix thread - that was top drawer. I picked up a tub of Silkolene Pro RG2 in preparation.
2003 S60R. RaceS60R 3" DP, RaceS60R intake, Re-map performance remap, FMIC, D5 oil cooler
LeeT5 (Tuesday 10th April 2012)
There you go Nick:
http://www.vpcuk.org/forums/showthread.php?t=21654
2003 S60R. RaceS60R 3" DP, RaceS60R intake, Re-map performance remap, FMIC, D5 oil cooler
Managed to do mine at the weekend, removed the stabiliser bar, over the engine pipe and the first/outer heatshield. Undid the second one and managed to get it out of the way enough to tighten the offendingly loose nuts, gave them all a good pinch tight and the difference is instantly noticeable! Well worth it thanks Lee for the guide
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