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  1. #41
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    i seemed to have solved the noise from the front end i just lowered it an extra 10mm and all seems peachy. so dont need to worry about that anymore.
    on the rear it was kinda clunky/rattly/wobbly noise as if something was free to move about. i have the coilovers off the rear as we speak and im trying to figure out where these volvo top cups are supposed to go cause when i fit them from the way you have previously described then ive not got enough thread to get the top nut on at all... so do the volvo cups replace the top cone thingy that comes with the coilovers?

    i had the rears sat at 80mm from the bottom thread.

  2. #42
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    My car is a 2001, but I didn't have those top caps to fit. Mine fitted pretty tightly with no rattle.

    Maybe you've got interference somewhere in the setup causing you issues?


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    Ive got a rattly/knocking noise on from the back end of mine but I didnt fit them, my dads mates classic car garage/bodyshop did and the car went through its MOT 2 days after fitting them so it must be alright and me just noticing things. Then again it could even be my dog guard rattling I just turn the radio up. Other than that its all gravy and I really like them.


    2003 V40 T4 Sport
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    I purchase the Coil overs from a memeber from another forum ,ive fitted them which is fine but i have a knocking noise when i go over a bump on the passenger side rear


    I said a 10 second car not a 10 minute car

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    Quote Originally Posted by antz View Post
    Ive got a rattly/knocking noise on from the back end of mine but I didnt fit them, my dads mates classic car garage/bodyshop did and the car went through its MOT 2 days after fitting them so it must be alright and me just noticing things. Then again it could even be my dog guard rattling I just turn the radio up. Other than that its all gravy and I really like them.
    Ive got the same problem on the passenger side rear shock Antz


    I said a 10 second car not a 10 minute car

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    I said a 10 second car not a 10 minute car

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    When I first fitted mine I had a small rattle from the rear, after much messing around trying to figure out what it might be it turned out to be the rubber parts of the top mount.
    Visually they appeared to be ok, but when changed the noise disappeared.
    They are only a few pounds per side, so I would suggest starting by changing those.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lozccw View Post
    When I first fitted mine I had a small rattle from the rear, after much messing around trying to figure out what it might be it turned out to be the rubber parts of the top mount.
    Visually they appeared to be ok, but when changed the noise disappeared.
    They are only a few pounds per side, so I would suggest starting by changing those.
    Hi mate thanks for the heads up which part is it though


    I said a 10 second car not a 10 minute car

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    Obviously the image is judgeninja's (I hope he doesn't mind me borrowing it).

    The parts I replaced are in the red boxes in the image below:


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    Quote Originally Posted by lozccw View Post
    Obviously the image is judgeninja's (I hope he doesn't mind me borrowing it).

    The parts I replaced are in the red boxes in the image below:

    My phase 1 T4 top mounts should fit these aye?


    I said a 10 second car not a 10 minute car

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    Yeah, the rears are the same on both p1 and p2

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    I hope it shuts it up lol.Ive read threads where people have tried alsorts and its still doing it


    I said a 10 second car not a 10 minute car

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    Quote Originally Posted by lozccw View Post
    Obviously the image is judgeninja's (I hope he doesn't mind me borrowing it).

    The parts I replaced are in the red boxes in the image below:

    Ive replaced these parts today and its still making the noise.Its like its missing some thing like that thick rubber insert that the normal spring would sit on for the rear


    I said a 10 second car not a 10 minute car

  14. #54
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    I wonder if you are wanting road quality suspension from this setup, but Unfortunately your fitting things almost metal to metal to stiffen everything up which should give greater feedback to the driver. It's all a compromise.
    Also They are shorter, so the likelihood of the system bottoming out will be greater.

    If it a loud bang/rattle when it shouldn't then the above below clamping force may have issues.
    Where in the country are you, if you're south based, then you could always pop over for a comparison..


    Current Garage:
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    1997 855 T5 S - stripped to 1300kgs gross weight - 14.2sec qtr(rank 17*)
    2001 V40 T4 SE - 14.199@100.15MPH - Hybrid Turbo/VXR injectors and DeCat(Rank 15*)
    *Data Sept 2013
    Any Stuff For Sale - check out my Ebay link

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    Quote Originally Posted by JUDGENINJA View Post
    I wonder if you are wanting road quality suspension from this setup, but Unfortunately your fitting things almost metal to metal to stiffen everything up which should give greater feedback to the driver. It's all a compromise.
    Also They are shorter, so the likelihood of the system bottoming out will be greater.

    If it a loud bang/rattle when it shouldn't then the above below clamping force may have issues.
    Where in the country are you, if you're south based, then you could always pop over for a comparison..
    Its more of a rattling noise when you go over a bump,its only on the rear passenger side as well.I just dont want any rattling thats all.Ive had the wheel off and when i move the shocker on the rear arm you can hear the clunk.Its defo not the shocker its self ive had it in pieces today


    I said a 10 second car not a 10 minute car

  16. #56
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    What year is yours?
    Siamblue's rear suspension bushes were slightly different to mine, maybe this could be something to consider


    Current Garage:
    1997 960 3.0L 24v - Polestar...(Honest guv..!!)
    1997 855 T5 S - stripped to 1300kgs gross weight - 14.2sec qtr(rank 17*)
    2001 V40 T4 SE - 14.199@100.15MPH - Hybrid Turbo/VXR injectors and DeCat(Rank 15*)
    *Data Sept 2013
    Any Stuff For Sale - check out my Ebay link

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by lozccw View Post


    P1 - bearing is small and molded-in to the top mount, sits directly around the strut shaft within the large raised middle portion.



    P2 - Bearing is a separate component, and sits underneath the top mount in the large recess.
    I can see the visual difference but why exactly can't one use the ph1 top mounts again?

    Getting a set of coilovers on monday and need to know why I need ph2 top mounts out of interest

  18. #58
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    It's probably simply that the bolt shaft maybe shorter?


    Current Garage:
    1997 960 3.0L 24v - Polestar...(Honest guv..!!)
    1997 855 T5 S - stripped to 1300kgs gross weight - 14.2sec qtr(rank 17*)
    2001 V40 T4 SE - 14.199@100.15MPH - Hybrid Turbo/VXR injectors and DeCat(Rank 15*)
    *Data Sept 2013
    Any Stuff For Sale - check out my Ebay link

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    The image below is of a P1 front strut:


    And the image below is of a P2 front strut:


    as I'm sure you are aware front struts require a bearing between the spring and the top mount in order to allow the shock body to rotate without stressing and 'twanging' the springs when you turn the hubs to steer.

    on the P1 (top image) the bearing is part number 9, and only about 50-60mm dia. the strut shaft which is about 15-20mm dia is designed to be a snug fit into the centre of the bearing, with an adaptor to increase to the dia of the spring.

    on the P2 (bottom image) the bearing is part number 10 and approx 110mm dia, and is sandwiched between the spring adaptor ring and the top mount. the strut shaft which is about 25-30mm dia is designed to sit against the top mount.

    Not sure how much sense all of that will make, if any?
    basically although the chassis and hub mounting points are the same for both P1 and P2 cars, the front strut shafts, bearings etc are completely different and not cross compatible.
    So when fitting the fk ak-streets (which are based on a P2 front strut) you will require the P2 top mounts also (when I converted my P1 I did offer up a P1 mount and it wouldn't even come close to fitting!)

  20. #60
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    thanks very much will source ph2 top mounts or adjustable top mounts then


 

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