RICA parameters

[oblark]

Hi, what parameters are altered or removed on a rica 304 bhp ?

[Wobbly Dave]

Do you mean how does remapping work or remapping on a RICA program?

[oblark]

A standard ecu will boost to 15 psi and limits top speed. So what boost pressure will a Rica ecu boost to. Is the top speed still limited ? What rpm does the boost come in at ?

[claymore]

If it's like the HLM 304 (which is not 304bhp) then the speed limiter is removed, boost comes in quite early and agresivly, and I could happily run at 20psi, also the boost cut is a lot softer.

[frobes2]

Can't you speak to Adam to give you the low down?!..

[cherry1809]

I'm getting cut at 18psi with a HLM. Wondering if I have fuel pump issues now. I did ask Hamish what he thought, And got "wind the boost down” Not happy with the answer as it's not fixing the problem, Just covering it up.

[smithy]

I'm getting cut at 18psi with a HLM. Wondering if I have fuel pump issues now. I did ask Hamish what he thought, And got "wind the boost down” Not happy with the answer as it's not fixing the problem, Just covering it up.

you have a different problem mate i know loads of peeps running 20 psi but make sure you can fuel and watch out for rods bending.i think hamish is looking at you keeping your engine in 1 piece imoe mate.but 18 psi is still high about 1.3 bar i think ,it must be quick at that

[mitchyboy01]

Strange, I've found Hamish to be ever so helpful. AHEM AHEM!!!!

[cherry1809]

Nah, Average is 1.2bar with a 304 map. Shouldn't be having problems with that. There's other issues that need looking at.

[oblark]

If it's like the HLM 304 (which is not 304bhp) then the speed limiter is removed, boost comes in quite early and agresivly, and I could happily run at 20psi, also the boost cut is a lot softer.

At what sort of RPM does it come in ? are you likely to bend a con rod if the boost comes in at too lower RPM ?

[claymore]

At what sort of RPM does it come in ? are you likely to bend a con rod if the boost comes in at too lower RPM ?

I haven't bent any rods, even with a MBC and Supercharger

[cherry1809]

At what sort of RPM does it come in ? are you likely to bend a con rod if the boost comes in at too lower RPM ?

if it's too much then probably. I don't WOT until after at LEAST 3500rpm.

[T5frankie]

For a start a standard ecu boosts at 10 psi not 15 mate, a remapped ecu will boost at 1.1 bar average some only 0.9 bar ask Liam

[smithy]

For a start a standard ecu boosts at 10 psi not 15 mate, a remapped ecu will boost at 1.1 bar average some only 0.9 bar ask Liam

liams car was never setup properly though

[Nathlm]

I'm getting cut at 18psi with a HLM. Wondering if I have fuel pump issues now. I did ask Hamish what he thought, And got "wind the boost down” Not happy with the answer as it's not fixing the problem, Just covering it up.

Please give me a call at work so that I can explain properly but for now I will try and explain why I told you to turn the boost down to FIX your problem.

** 1 bar = 14.7 psi
*** a £45 boost gauge from ebay is very rarely accurate enough. To give you an idea the calibrated gauge that I use costs over £350.

Your max standard boost is 0.6 bar. After the RICA remap on a manual car max boost is 1.1bar (Auto 1.2bar). This will be from 3500rpm to 5000 rpm if the car doesn't make this then the problem is with the car not the map.

If you find you are getting boost cut at 1.3bar then good/brilliant/excellent the map is as it should be. Much more than 1.3bar at 3000 - 3500 rpm will bend a rod. If somebody says they have been running more then great/ yippee/fantastic for them. If their engine still doesn't knock like a *h1t House Door in a gale after 10 miles of hard driving then they are almost certainly not running 1.4bar or they have an incredible/magic engine with con rods that are made of kryptonite.

So telling you to turn the boost down will fix the problem and is NOT just covering it up as I suspect that 18psi on your gauge is in reality over 20psi.

You will experience boost cut problems with your map even at 1.1bar if you trying to run your car on low grade fuel such as Supermarket Unleaded. This is caused by the much earlier on set of knock (det.) and the map trying to save the engine.

So I trust this helps to explain why I took time out of my weekend to help you FIX your proble. Turning the boost down is covering up the problem as the problem is caused by excessive boost. If you are not happy with my (expert) advice fine/no problem/not really bothered but I'm sure a bent Con Rod will not make you happy either.

Regards,
Hamish.

[merc85]

Tbh , i get what Hamish is saying.

[hamish]

Hi, what parameters are altered or removed on a rica 304 bhp ?

Give me a call at work I have a bit of experience of these remaps. Having sold more of these than anybody else (Rica included) !!

Boost is raised to 1.1 bar
Speed Limiter is effectively removed.
Boost Limit is raised but not removed
Fueling is improved
Ignition Timing is altered
Rica's claimed peak power is errr.....optimistic.

Trust this helps,
Hamish.
www.hlmtuning.co.uk

[Dan850r]

Having this map myself and having it dynoed independantly, the operator said it was fueling very good if a touch lean (very slightly in his eyes (not used to volvos) but still safe!) and was impressed by what is a generic map, mine is a little different than standard spec but, no complaints here compairing it to an upsolute map i had on another t5

[LiamT4]

For a start a standard ecu boosts at 10 psi not 15 mate, a remapped ecu will boost at 1.1 bar average some only 0.9 bar ask Liam

With the weak actuator i was only getting 10psi (0.68bar) even with the remap.

With another actuator and mbc i could still only get 12psi. No matter how much i turned it up, it wouldn't go past 12, it just seemed to bring the boost in quicker. Very aggressive and felt very quick but was actually slower as the boost would hit 12psi very quickly but then steadily drop from 2.5k untill the redline.

With the actuator thats currently on it and with the mbc removed it will now hit 14psi and hold untill the redline. Not quite the 1.1bar (almost 16psi) that its supposed to but my local volvo place reckon that because the cat is now 13 years old and on 113k miles, that its not flowing as efficiently as it could and fitting a new one would help get that missing 2psi back. New hoses would help too.

[cherry1809]

Please give me a call at work so that I can explain properly but for now I will try and explain why I told you to turn the boost down to FIX your problem.

** 1 bar = 14.7 psi
*** a £45 boost gauge from ebay is very rarely accurate enough. To give you an idea the calibrated gauge that I use costs over £350.

Your max standard boost is 0.6 bar. After the RICA remap on a manual car max boost is 1.1bar (Auto 1.2bar). This will be from 3500rpm to 5000 rpm if the car doesn't make this then the problem is with the car not the map.

If you find you are getting boost cut at 1.3bar then good/brilliant/excellent the map is as it should be. Much more than 1.3bar at 3000 - 3500 rpm will bend a rod. If somebody says they have been running more then great/ yippee/fantastic for them. If their engine still doesn't knock like a *h1t House Door in a gale after 10 miles of hard driving then they are almost certainly not running 1.4bar or they have an incredible/magic engine with con rods that are made of kryptonite.

So telling you to turn the boost down will fix the problem and is NOT just covering it up as I suspect that 18psi on your gauge is in reality over 20psi.

You will experience boost cut problems with your map even at 1.1bar if you trying to run your car on low grade fuel such as Supermarket Unleaded. This is caused by the much earlier on set of knock (det.) and the map trying to save the engine.

So I trust this helps to explain why I took time out of my weekend to help you FIX your proble. Turning the boost down is covering up the problem as the problem is caused by excessive boost. If you are not happy with my (expert) advice fine/no problem/not really bothered but I'm sure a bent Con Rod will not make you happy either.

Regards,
Hamish.

Calm down mate. I'm running an Autometer anologue and a Blitz SBC. Both are giving the same boost pressure readings. I never said it was a problem with the map, I said it started all of a sudden after a few months of running fine. Hence there being another problem that I asked what you think it could be. Taking time out of your weekend? You have very short weekends. Turning down the boost made no difference by the way (yes I did try) So that led me to,
1. Believe I did have other issues.
2. Think that unless your getting paid, Your not that bothered.
Prove me wrong and offer some useful advice.