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  1. #1
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    WARNING = drilling shunt, bulb failure

    the HID's on my old mans 03 S60 have always thrown the bulb failure warning, so today we decided to drill it as described on some internet sites. Resulted in no dimmed beam headlights working at all. Replaced with the unmolested shunt from mine & all works fine, even tried the drilled shunt in my 52 S60 & exactly the same no lights (sidelights didn't even work on mine)

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    Thanks for warning i was considering doing this. I really want to fit a HID kit but after many hours researching the net still haven't found any reliable info on getting rid of the bulb failure warning. 05 S60 (facelift) ?help anyone?, considering trying a 55W set with the warning cancellers wich i believe are just resistors with heat sinks on? I won't give up. the last set i tried wouldn't even power on - they flashed when you turn on the lights then nothing and they were CANBUS error free jobs....

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheT6Kid View Post
    Thanks for warning i was considering doing this. I really want to fit a HID kit but after many hours researching the net still haven't found any reliable info on getting rid of the bulb failure warning. 05 S60 (facelift) ?help anyone?, considering trying a 55W set with the warning cancellers wich i believe are just resistors with heat sinks on? I won't give up. the last set i tried wouldn't even power on - they flashed when you turn on the lights then nothing and they were CANBUS error free jobs....
    as i've got to get a new shunt i'm wondering if theirs a different one for HID's equipped cars

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    worth asking the question - I was looking at a pair of genuine headlights (on an auction site) but I think to do a full replacement it would be headlights / loom adaptor / new internal switch / levelling module on rear suspension and software which all sounds like mega bucks

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    Pedro

    I recently fitted HID's, and sucessfully drilled the shunt to cancel the bulb failure.

    You have to be very careful when drilling the hole.

    The power for the dipped beam travels through the shunt from pin 2-3. There is a known resistance between these pins (0.01 ohms if i remember correctly) giving rise to a voltage drop (Remember V=I*R) between the pins proportional to the current drawn.

    The standard 50W bulbs draw approx. 4A each (8-9A) giving a voltage drop in the region of <0.1V. The central control unit monitors this voltage to determine if the bulbs are working.

    At 35W, the HID's draw approx 3A each giving a voltage drop of about 0.06v (This is all very approximate saturday night maths before anyone starts).

    By drilling the shunt in the location described (see link in my other thread here, and external site here), you reduce the cross section area of the shunt, increasing it's resistance, giving a higher voltage drop for your lower current, tricking the central control unit.

    If you drill a slightly too big hole (>2mm) or in slightly the wrong place, you will increase the resistance to the point where the remaining shunt heats up and burns out, breaking the supply to your headlights.

    FYI: From the research I did into this it turns out standard fit HID's use pins 1-3 on the shunt. The wiring in the fuse-box is different to accomodate this.

    NOTE: If you re-fit higher power bulbs, you will need a new shunt after drilling it, as the higher power bulbs will burn out your drilled shunt.

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  8. #6
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    i can honestly say i've been well and truly put off owning a phase 2 after being on this forum lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyBurnWorld View Post
    Pedro

    I recently fitted HID's, and sucessfully drilled the shunt to cancel the bulb failure.

    You have to be very careful when drilling the hole.

    The power for the dipped beam travels through the shunt from pin 2-3. There is a known resistance between these pins (0.01 ohms if i remember correctly) giving rise to a voltage drop (Remember V=I*R) between the pins proportional to the current drawn.

    The standard 50W bulbs draw approx. 4A each (8-9A) giving a voltage drop in the region of <0.1V. The central control unit monitors this voltage to determine if the bulbs are working.

    At 35W, the HID's draw approx 3A each giving a voltage drop of about 0.06v (This is all very approximate saturday night maths before anyone starts).

    By drilling the shunt in the location described (see link in my other thread here, and external site here), you reduce the cross section area of the shunt, increasing it's resistance, giving a higher voltage drop for your lower current, tricking the central control unit.

    If you drill a slightly too big hole (>2mm) or in slightly the wrong place, you will increase the resistance to the point where the remaining shunt heats up and burns out, breaking the supply to your headlights.

    FYI: From the research I did into this it turns out standard fit HID's use pins 1-3 on the shunt. The wiring in the fuse-box is different to accomodate this.

    NOTE: If you re-fit higher power bulbs, you will need a new shunt after drilling it, as the higher power bulbs will burn out your drilled shunt.
    thats the external site i used for the info, we followed all the instructions but looks like we weren't quite accurate enough then. We've swopped him back to Halogens now, my 52 doesn't throw a failure light with HID's so i'm alright lol

  11. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by t5frankie View Post
    i can honestly say i've been well and truly put off owning a phase 2 after being on this forum lol
    you won't beat them for comfort, just don't alter anything (or sneeze) the ecu won't like it lol

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    I successfully drilled the shunt in my previous S60. The drill hole size 1mm .

    I bought a spare shunt just in case. But worked fine
    Jaseb77

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    Ah, don't be put off P2's. In fairness, they're quite sophisticated electronically. I appreciate when things go slightly out of tolerance it becomes a bit annoying having a yellow triangle shining in your face, however think of it this way, prevention is better than a cure.

    In industrial maintenance, the most reliable machine is one where you are aware the second something is not 'just so'. Machines that suddenly grind to a halt are expensive to fix, and cost money in down time. The same can be said for cars. Having an early warning that something is not quite right allows you to plan to get it fixed, rather than having an AA/RAC bloke tell you he's towing you to the nearest scrappy.

    What I'm getting at is with the ECU/CEM throwing warnings left right and centre, little problems don't go un-noticed and don't have a chance to build to something bigger.

    Now: Bulb Failure Parking light. Any clues? I swapped my sidelights to LED's when I did my HID's and after drilling the shunt I had no warnings. Now all of a sudden I'm getting this even though my sidelights work fine? I've even just put better LED's in with error cancelling resistors.

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    I drilled one with no problem as well pedro maybe the drill isnt your friend stick to the grinder mate

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  17. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vikingxl View Post
    I drilled one with no problem as well pedro maybe the drill isnt your friend stick to the grinder mate
    +1 lol
    I drilled 1mm instead of the said 2mm hole, so far no problems with my HIDs.

  18. #13
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    oh well, he's got Halogens now & i'm not messing again lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaseb77 View Post
    I successfully drilled the shunt in my previous S60. The drill hole size 1mm .

    I bought a spare shunt just in case. But worked fine
    I agree with Jase I also Drilled my shunt on my old S60 t5 without a problem. you have to make sure its exactly a 1mm drill and get it in exactly the right spot. then job done...

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyBurnWorld View Post

    Now: Bulb Failure Parking light. Any clues?
    This warning can refer to any of the 2x front, 4x rear or 2x number plate lights.

    Have you checked them all?

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    Just replaced the number plate bulbs so they now work (one bulb blown). Still got the error. You say 4x rear lights? All i can find is a twin filament bayonet either side. What else is there?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyBurnWorld View Post
    Just replaced the number plate bulbs so they now work (one bulb blown). Still got the error. You say 4x rear lights? All i can find is a twin filament bayonet either side. What else is there?
    Most of the tail lights across the model range double up on bulbs. I see, to remember my 850 having a double filament bulb in it, maybe tail+ fog or maybe just a double filament bulb only using one circuit. Maybe you have two tail lights out?

  23. #18
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    been & picked up a new shunt, 3.72 which i thought was quite good. Both got lights again now, only me with HID's tho lol

  24. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by t5frankie View Post
    i can honestly say i've been well and truly put off owning a phase 2 after being on this forum lol
    Ill second that frank

  25. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by t5 pete View Post
    Ill second that frank
    Dont be put off so quick, the trouble forums is you mainly hear the negatives but the phase 2 cars are pretty good just you cant abuse them like the older cars.


 

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