Checking the reluctor rings question

[mas]

Lo all, what exactly do I have to take off to see the magic rings. Am I right in thinking i have to take wheel then discs and hub off. Thats a mighty strong looking centre nut there


Mas, has never taken a hub off

[M-R-P]

First time for everything, grab yourself a Haynes book of lies and some shredded wheat....

[Tomcat]

First time for everything, grab yourself a Haynes book of lies and some shredded wheat....

Lmao!....

You'll also need a big ass breaker bar and some gamma ray radiation to bulk up those muscles and give you that healthy green glow.

[mas]

Much as I know y0u guys will want to give me a gentle ribbing , I have managed to see the front rings so far with a torch. sorry pics arent very focused.




The teeth are all there but you cant really see the rest of the ring to look for cracks. The bit of the CV joint next to the rings is black paint from what I can see and is all rusted and peeling off. The rubber boots are fine as they were replaced for a previous MOT.

As a result of the rust/paint there is lots of crud between the teeth if you see what I mean. I cant imagine this is acceptable and a bit of googling suggests it isnt.

Would it be acceptable to spray brake cleaner in there to try and remove the crud or would you think take the hub and disc off first and do a real proper brush style clean up ?

I did find the ABS sensor and look at the wiring and the connector they seem in good order. again there seems to be crud , maybe just mud between the sensor and the teeth but we do of course live down a muddy track !

I will happily buy a manual but how in your experience would you proceed.

I checked the hub nut I take it i need to buy a rather deep 36mm socket socket and a breaker bar as the standard depth socket doesnt go on there. Thats the end of the job for this weekend then as im not going to halfrauds to get ripped off.

Would a 1/2" drive and breaker bar be sufficient or do folk use 3/4 or 1" for these hub nuts I might as well buy the right thing for the job ! . I know Andy snapped a breaker bar on my Rover 75

Ive done nothing but buy car bits this month , oil filters , tools bluetooth odb thingy all I need now are skills

Cheers

Mas

[M-R-P]

Sorry to take the p1ss mate. It's something I havn't had to tackle yet so I can't offer much help. One thing I've learned, working on volvos is, when you get the opportunity to dismantle something and give it a clean/paint/grease, take it and do a proper job. If you half-do a job and the half you didn't do goes t1ts up, you'll be kicking yourself.
Keep bumping the thread mate, somebody's bound to know
Good luck.

[mas]

Since when were we ever really sorry to take the mick on here

[M-R-P]

True

[Niles]

While the car is on its wheels, remove the wheels plastic centre. Get a 36mm socket, 1/2" breaker bar, stand on it or use a bit of metal tubing to shift the nut. Loosen it a bit.
Jack the car up. off with the wheel.
Undo the drop link 1 end, if you leave that in place, the shock will be under tension and can cause problems. Slacken the 36mm nut a little more but don't remove it yet.
Leave the nut on, put the socket on it then give it a tap with a mallet (don't hit the nut itself or the shafts splined ends). With gentle persuasion the shaft should slip out of the hub. When it starts to move freely, remove socket, and nut.
Then, remove the 2 bolts holding the shock to the hub. Nudge the shaft back a bit and there is the reluctor ring exposed nicely.

[mas]

I shall keep that post ta

Firstly I need to put the wheels back on and the car back on the ground then thats a shame, it looked all ready on its axle stands hehehe

Do you think 1/2" is strong enough , I'd happily buy a 3/4 since I have to go and buy the kit anyway ?

I'll get the socket and breaker bar for next weekend, its too late now as I'll need to be at work in London to buy them or Amazon of course.

Cheers Mas

[ajma]

Maybe you've already done this, but having just replaced both front reluctor rings I strongly suggest a stout 3/4" breaker bar and socket for undoing the hub nut; one of mine came off relatively easy (i.e with simply jumping on the end of the breaker bar), the other clearly had never been off in all its 140k miles and 14 years.

A long piece of snug-fitting heavy steel box section tubing was required to get the nut undone, but that was the easy bit - to get the driveshaft out of the hub required about five minutes of repeated massive hits from a fencing mell. Note - leave the nut on and sit the socket on it to take the blows otherwise you'll be replacing your outer CV joint too!

My reluctor rings weren't cracked but were both very crusty and causing the ABS to kick in when turning corners or stopping from low speeds (i.e. parking.) Replacements were a few quid each on eBay and once the driveshafts were out were easy enough to tap on with a copper hammer (I cleaned up the shoulder of the CV joint with a wire brush in the drill first.)

If you need to replace yours, I'd highly recommend undoing the two big bolts on the wishbone instead of the balljoint end the manuals suggest - those are much more likely to come apart easily and you'd have to be pretty ham-fisted to damage anything at that end of the wishbone whereas the ball joint boot is quite vulnerable.

[Wobbly Dave]

IIRC the hub bolts are stretch bolts - so you will need to replace them, once you remove'em.

[mas]

I have to confess the T5 is looking goog but I havnt tackled this job yet. I have jobs to do on all three cars. You can rest assured I will be getting a 3/4 bar and i will be re reading the threads before having a go.

Ta

Mas