My remap results - HLM

[MattM]

Sounds pretty immense!

[smithy]

if i remember right is sports cat, exhaust bigger inj and poss fmic. am sure hamish runs a hybrid turbo to.

i bet you that upgrade is pushing some horses and torque.and hers me trying to get the highest powered volvo on his dyno but i might struggle with the figuires with that conversion on an s60/v70 2.4 t5

[graemewelch]

from what ive read hybrid kkk turbos are poor. almost same as stock. still got to be pushing 350bhp easy. no idea abut torque

[smithy]

from what ive read hybrid kkk turbos are poor. almost same as stock. still got to be pushing 350bhp easy. no idea abut torque

i dont think the hlm hybrid for that engine is a kkk24 hybrid but could be wrong though but it would be nice to find out my about the upgrade .

[t5_monkey]

with downpipe, FMIC, injectors etc... you'll get 350 on the standard KKK anyway.

Better off with a Garrett after that by the sounds of it

[graemewelch]

i thought abut going down the garret turb rute but the custom mapping was the issue. for a extra bhp yr talking a lot of money

[MattM]

Any plans to help get the power down on the road? I can see it being a bit of a handful with even more torque.

[graemewelch]

good tyres and learn to control the throttle for smooth progresive power if you just floor it youll get wheel spin everytime

[bigrotch]

Look very impresive mate can't wait to get my kkk k24 turbo and R manifold and down pipe on my 850 then get it mapped to see what it pushers....

[M-R-P]

Wow, proper nice job. I gotta bump up my remap fund and get up there. Maybe get the funds together for the charity rolling road day next year and get it all done in one hit

[T5frankie]

awesome results mate bet its rapid now

[MattM]

Forgot to mention, it's running about 1.25 bar now

[Wobbly Dave]

As I said on the other thread - the ted rogers 321 is a good number to have. Seems to push & hold 400NM for a long long time. I think you will need to play with tyre choices & don't forget doing full boar runs in this wet/cold weather can end in tears - so be careful.

Betsy makes about the same torque but perhaps because the 19T runs out of puff a bit sooner than the treble K, the torque curve is not as well sustained -



However the main difference is that yours is just starting out. I have done all I can with my config & you have room to manoever yet more torque out of your engine. The larger FMIC will help keep your IATs down & further improve your volumetric effeciency.

Long & strong (the torque curve) is the way to go. See you at the drag strip!

[Slomo]

Very nice results...

The best thing I managed to get hold of for the T4 to fix the Torque steer when accelerating and to improve the handling was a "H" brace to go under the car. I have always had the titanium top strut brace from Volvo Sweden and that helped but the under car one is superb. Wish I ahd done that at the begining. See if youi can get one for your model of car? Defo reccomend....

Slomo

[p fandango]

See if youi can get one for your model of car? Defo reccomend....

UR racing do a front under body brace for 850's

[MattM]

Yea the Pirelli PZero Rosso aren't exactly great, but they were brand new on the car when I got it so they will be on there for a while longer. Haven't had problems with torque steer yet, just traction.

[t5_monkey]

My CC3's have always been good - especially in the wet, good compliancy too so the ride is good.

[jardon]

My experience as regards less wheelspin.

1. Don't expect to floor it and not have any wheelspin ie: drive accordingly. It's taken me a while but I'm used to it now.

2. Tyres suitable for the prevailing conditions e.g: I use really sticky tyres in "summer" like Yokohama AD08's, Toyo R888's or Hankook RS2's and currently running Vredstein Wintrac Xtremes. Always a compromise though - the summer tyres mentioned are well below par in standing water but great in the dry. I haven't used Vredstein Ultrac Sessantas but they get great word of mouth on our forums as an all rounder.

3. Don't rush into any suspension mods. I have just removed my front anti-roll bar leaving a rear IPD bar and wheelspin is greatly reduced (straight line and cornering). My inner-jury is out on whether this is appropriate all year round but works well in the low traction conditions of late. This may be working well for me because I have generally stiffer suspension (coilovers) but may make a stock vehicle quite sloppy up front. I am unlikely to refit the front IPD bar and may fit a stock one. My advice would be consider a stiffer rear anti roll bar but for road use the front IPD is way too stiff for best traction. On dry track with sticky rubber I may now get a bucket of roll but for road I'm really pleased so far.

4. Budget dependent - a Quaife or Gripper diff. Be prepared for arsing about if you go with the latter but it's an amazing piece of kit when set up correctly.

[jardon]

Din correction would reduce the output figures slightly as the ambient was <20C. For future mod comparisons a correction is useful should you return to the dyno in summer for a stage 2 etc. However, if simple before and after then no need. I suspect you could get a corrected set of results if you asked as it's just a mathematical calculation taking into account ambient temperature and pressure - I'm guessing the dyno software can produce it from the raw data. Nice result, glad it worked out for you in the end.

[Wobbly Dave]

I will have a nearly new quaiffe LSD coming up for sale very soon.