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    Idle question 2004 S60R

    I just wondered what regulates the idle on a P2 S60?

    Does it have an idle control valve on the inlet somewhere? Or does it use crank sensors or map sensors etc?

    Thanks guys
    Sorry, nothing Swedish here...

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leeds_finest View Post
    I just wondered what regulates the idle on a P2 S60?

    Does it have an idle control valve on the inlet somewhere? Or does it use crank sensors or map sensors etc?

    Thanks guys
    ME7.07 engine does not have an idle control valve. Its all done by MAP and crank/Camshaft/Throttle/MAF sensors.

    Idle should be 750rpm +/- 50rpm.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    ME7.07 engine does not have an idle control valve. Its all done by MAP and crank/Camshaft/Throttle/MAF sensors.

    Idle should be 750rpm +/- 50rpm.
    Ok, so is that the management used on my car?

    Sometimes when I switch it on, warm or cold, the idle isn't always 100% stable and fluctuates slightly.

    I can't go about cleaning all those sensors as it's probably more hassle than worth, but maybe a new set of plugs? What do you reckon?

    Also, i'm aware the air conditioning 'on' will cause the idle to fluctuate, but it does it with the A/C 'off' too.

    Thanks
    Sorry, nothing Swedish here...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leeds_finest View Post
    Ok, so is that the management used on my car?

    Sometimes when I switch it on, warm or cold, the idle isn't always 100% stable and fluctuates slightly.

    I can't go about cleaning all those sensors as it's probably more hassle than worth, but maybe a new set of plugs? What do you reckon?

    Also, i'm aware the air conditioning 'on' will cause the idle to fluctuate, but it does it with the A/C 'off' too.

    Thanks
    You'll more likely damage the sensor by trying to clean them. How many miles has your car done? Is it due a set of plugs? If so, replace them!!

    To answer your Qs...Yes it is the Management system on your car.

    I've said it a million times and i'll say it again, you need to have your codes read by a PROPER code reader that can read Volvo code, ie ECM 1234. Not a generic code reader that just gives you a P0**** code.

    Make a note of the codes then clear ALL the ecu's of the codes. Then drive the car for 50 or so miles ensuring you have at least 5 - 10 cold starts or normal starts in that process. Then, re-read the codes and note which ones re appear.
    Only then will you find the offending culprit. Do that then come back to this thread with the codes, otherwise your wasting your time.

    For the record: Bad idle or fluctuating idle can be caused by many things including FPS, MAF, Crank sensor, Worn spark plugs, vac leak, throttle potentiometer, throttle pos' switch...etc etc. hense why you must read the cars.
    Last edited by LeeT5; Sunday 8th January 2012 at 23:42.
    2014 V60 Polestar 6spd Auto :: Polestar map peak boost 17.4psi :: IPD 3" DP + 150cel :: Polestar 2.5" exhaust :: Paddle Shift Geartronic :: Black glass :: Maxton Splitter :: K+N Filter :: IPD Aluminium Top engine mount :: Brembo 6 pots :: 20" Polestar rims :: Brembo 371mm floating discs :: Sensus RTi + DAB + BT + WIFi :: D3S XENARC 6000k Active bending headlights

  5. #5
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    I agree with LeeT5 however i had a similar problem on my s60R
    I had the injectors cleaned by jim on the voc forum and performance and idleing is much better

  6. #6
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    Nobody's mentioned the revs rising to 1200 rpm when started from very cold -0, then settling down to 650-750 when it warms up a bit
    There ya go lol
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeT5 View Post
    You'll more likely damage the sensor by trying to clean them. How many miles has your car done? Is it due a set of plugs? If so, replace them!!

    To answer your Qs...Yes it is the Management system on your car.

    I've said it a million times and i'll say it again, you need to have your codes read by a PROPER code reader that can read Volvo code, ie ECM 1234. Not a generic code reader that just gives you a P0**** code.

    Make a note of the codes then clear ALL the ecu's of the codes. Then drive the car for 50 or so miles ensuring you have at least 5 - 10 cold starts or normal starts in that process. Then, re-read the codes and note which ones re appear.
    Only then will you find the offending culprit. Do that then come back to this thread with the codes, otherwise your wasting your time.

    For the record: Bad idle or fluctuating idle can be caused by many things including FPS, MAF, Crank sensor, Worn spark plugs, vac leak, throttle potentiometer, throttle pos' switch...etc etc. hense why you must read the cars.
    I'm not sure if it's due plugs i'll check service history.

    I've got VIDA and DICE, although I don't know how to clear the codes. Plus, with 2011A being such a pain in the arse to install on most computers, it will only work on my friends computer which is a desktop, hence I cannot access VIDA/DICE too easily

    ...oh and it's done 110k.

    Quote Originally Posted by jay30h View Post
    I agree with LeeT5 however i had a similar problem on my s60R
    I had the injectors cleaned by jim on the voc forum and performance and idleing is much better
    I'll look into this, thanks.
    Last edited by Leeds_finest; Monday 9th January 2012 at 18:25.
    Sorry, nothing Swedish here...

  8. #8
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