hesitant when cold

[deathrider311271]

hi peeps

right i have a problem started this week, the car is very hesitant when cold, fine when warm now i put this down to the sticking actuator but have replaced it this morning, holds boost a lot better now.
All these parts have been replaced in the last 3k miles:
Maf gen bosch
Both lambdas gen bosch
Spark plugs gen volvo
Fuel filter gen volvo
Air filter K&N panel filter
Temp sensor gen volvo
ETM cleaned again
IPD boost control selenoid
All vac hoses replaced
All boost hoses replaced
White injectors cleaned and new 'o' rings fitted

Now there are no codes stored it just hesitates when cold, its fine when hot. I was thinking temp sensor is on its way out again.

Thought please guys


Simon

[LiamT4]

Distributor cap and rotor arm?

[daza-b]

Distributor cap and rotor arm?

i was gonna say that lol

[deathrider311271]

its ME7 so doesnt have them, just so peeps know i replaced all the coil packs 6 months ago

Simon

[LiamT4]

its ME7 so doesnt have them, just so peeps know i replaced all the coil packs 6 months ago

Simon

Course not, should have realised when you'd said the etm had been done.

[deathrider311271]

right guys a development today, did well over 500 miles today in the car, got to where i was going (funeral see other thread) and i lost all boost, rough running and ETS light came on.

Came out, boost back but but feels like it sticks then goes and now hesitant when warm.

Now im thinking boost control selenoid and possibly ETM

Thoughts please guys

Simon

[deathrider311271]

well met up with Mike and we got a couple of codes:
ECM9300 clutch pedal sensor
CDM000D not a clue what this one is???

Simon

[tim15888]

ETS is the electronic throttle body, common fault if it's a white sticker one, the recalled some and the replacements have a yellow sticker instead, mine went a bit ago. If you get a second hand one make sure it's off the exact same engine or it won't work and will do all kinds of weird ****. Also if the clutch pedal sensor isn't working and it thinks the clutch is pressed, you won't get full revs etc. This is probably nothing to do with it being hessitant when cold, that's more than likely the exhaust you have etc... I've got almost the same setup on my V70 T5 se which is an electronig throttle body and same ignition system as yours... I have a RICA 280bhp ecu courtisy of the Police (Twas an armed response car once upon a time and they wiegh alot with the kevlar so they use a diff ecu on them), anyhow that's besides the point... I've got a bleed valve, de-cat, streight through exhaust, forge dump valve, K&N pael filter and so on, and mine is a bag of ****e when cold,... lovely when wamed up but you know what I mean. Also there's alot of things to check on the boost side of things, MAP sensor etc. Sounds to me like your throttle body is knackered though.

Tim

[deathrider311271]

ETS is the electronic throttle body, common fault if it's a white sticker one, the recalled some and the replacements have a yellow sticker instead, mine went a bit ago. If you get a second hand one make sure it's off the exact same engine or it won't work and will do all kinds of weird ****. Also if the clutch pedal sensor isn't working and it thinks the clutch is pressed, you won't get full revs etc. This is probably nothing to do with it being hessitant when cold, that's more than likely the exhaust you have etc... I've got almost the same setup on my V70 T5 se which is an electronig throttle body and same ignition system as yours... I have a RICA 280bhp ecu courtisy of the Police (Twas an armed response car once upon a time and they wiegh alot with the kevlar so they use a diff ecu on them), anyhow that's besides the point... I've got a bleed valve, de-cat, streight through exhaust, forge dump valve, K&N pael filter and so on, and mine is a bag of ****e when cold,... lovely when wamed up but you know what I mean. Also there's alot of things to check on the boost side of things, MAP sensor etc. Sounds to me like your throttle body is knackered though.

Tim

Thanks for your input Tim, my ETM is the yellow one, and i also have a spare as well as my original white sticker one, i know all about the ETM as i did a write up on VOC about how to get second hand ones working.

One question how the hell did u get the dump valve to work?

[deathrider311271]

right guys im still struggling with this one, as stated before its hesitant when cold and hot so this problem is developing.

Now im thinking as no real codes have been found by volvo software and the problem is getting worse, is this classic fuel pump failure symptoms?

simon

[tim15888]

Your dump valve won't cos' it's a 2.5 which are usually LPT... Only boost to about 4psi. To use a dv on one like mine it isn't as simple as just throwing it on, you have to use a t peice and keep a line going to the actuator and use them both together if you get what I mean...

Also if yours is the LPT which I suspect it is, don't put a bigger turbo on, won't work. MAP will just keep cutting the boost off...

[tim15888]

Have you got any spare MAF's aswell, even if it's a new one it might be worth a try as if your missing the cold air feed off the air box, or have a cone filter on they suck warm air from under the bonnet and go for fun... especially when you get stuck in traffic.

[deathrider311271]

Have you got any spare MAF's aswell, even if it's a new one it might be worth a try as if your missing the cold air feed off the air box, or have a cone filter on they suck warm air from under the bonnet and go for fun... especially when you get stuck in traffic.

yes i have my old map sensor, mine boosts to 10psi its mapped already, i still have my cold air feed to the box.

Can u do a diagram for the dump valve please as i dont really get what u mean

[tim15888]

I can explain. There is a vac pipe that runs from the inlet manifold (Right hand side if your looking from the front of the car)... Fit the dump valve and put a vac feed from that pipe with a T-peice so your not taking the vac feed to the actuator off, just tapping into it. The turbo on the older ones have 2 vac pipes, one for controlling the boost and one for opening the waste gate when you back off. On these you can just take the release feed off and put it onto the dump valve, but on ours you have to tap into it and leave it on so the waste gate will still work...

[tim15888]

Have you put the bigger injectors in to run it at 10psi?

[deathrider311271]

yes i have whites in at the moment, i have some greens on the way ready for when i fit my 16T and remap again MTE will be sorting it this time tho

[tim15888]

Who does your remap and what power is it pushing? Mine can't be done no matter who I ask cos' it's got an odd ball ECU on it which is supposed to be 280bhp rather than 240bhp. Should be a bit more with my tweeks on top, alot faster than when I got it anyway, kept with a good few EVO's and STI's even off the line in the past, only in the dry though... useless in the wet.

[deathrider311271]

Who does your remap and what power is it pushing? Mine can't be done no matter who I ask cos' it's got an odd ball ECU on it which is supposed to be 280bhp rather than 240bhp. Should be a bit more with my tweeks on top, alot faster than when I got it anyway, kept with a good few EVO's and STI's even off the line in the past, only in the dry though... useless in the wet.

local cowboy did the first one and its worse than standard, then they went bust so im saving my pennies for a proper one lol

[tim15888]

Possibly where alot of the problems your having are coming from?

[deathrider311271]

Possibly where alot of the problems your having are coming from?

i dont think so as its just started this last 2 weeks and the map has been on for 18 months