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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinrpeachey View Post
    How much of a difference did you notice after doing the bushes? I did bushes and shocks at the same time so there was a massive difference. The old shocks had done over 180k so it's hard to say how much improvement can be attributed to the bushes.
    Hmmm this is a tough one Martin.

    Basically, the whole front end was very ropey on my car when I bought it. I say ropey, I just think 105k of spirited driving had taken it's toll. Originally, it was just the front drivers shock that was shot so I replaced both front shocks and carried on.

    When I felt that the whole front end needed overhaul, I changed practically everything - lower arm front bushes, lower arm rear bushes, ball joints, drive shaft bolts, track rod ends.. everything!

    So in reply to your question, I couldn't really gauge the difference either. However, one thing I can say is, changing your strut brace inserts + upper and lower stabiliser bushes to poly ones, you notice a difference at idle and also as the revs drop when you are letting the clutch out from stand still in first gear. This is because as engine intertia drops for that second or two, the vibrations are carried through the new bushes into the cabin. At idle, mine vibrates slightly more than before and it's noticeable when I pull off as you can feel the cabin vibrate significantly more too, but, once you're moving and normal gear changes are fine.


  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinrpeachey View Post
    Oh, I did this too but if you need a how-to on that, you don't deserve to hold a spanner!
    Top tip. Don't replace the larger of the bushes shown in the above photo with Poly. Itf you do, brace yourself! The gear changes will be incredibly harsh and really not nice to drive. I should know, been there and done it. Fitted oe in the end with a poly bush for the small one. (much nicer to drive now).

    2004 V70R 6spd manual:: Custom JRtuning REMAP @ peak 21psi :: Custom 2.75" exhaust :: TTV SMF + 07 Clutch :: WG 5.0 psi :: Tints :: IPD R gauge Rev.3 :: CFWerks door pod :: Forge CBV + yellow spring :: Windowed stock housing + blue filter :: Powerflex :: Superpro Engine mount :: Brembo Dot 5.1 :: TW FMIC :: Eibach 5mm spacers :: Brembo 330mm drilled discs :: iMiV 'Classic'+ BT :: D2R XENARC 5500k + LED H7 + LED H3 :: VolvoTech CFE OBD-V1 :: See garage for full mod list

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  4. #43
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    Nice write up
    Old Cars: Mazda6, Laguna 2.2, S40 T4, Passat 1.8t, Celica GT4, Legacy GTB, Golf VR6, S70 2.5t, C70 T5
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  6. #44
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    im half way through doing mine now. just sent the mrs out for a new tin of gas for the blow lamp. kind of wishing id just took the wishboe off now.

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    Did mine last weekend ended up replacing the full arms as the ball joints were knackered, also ended up breaking my driveshaft drivers side. Finally got it back on the road today, i now need to get the front wheels alligned again, but all good as its nice and tight at the front again now

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  8. #46
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    Well worth it, and not very expensive too.
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    the job has turned into a night mare for me. had to do it back to front. put bush in first then steel bar. the g clamp just isnt working for me. ill have to use the press at work or a big vice

  10. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leeds_finest View Post
    EXTREMELY interesting thread. The reason is because my powerflex lower arm (front) bushes don't fit correctly, and this has answered the question why...

    When you had fully melted all your rubber off the original centre bar, in your pictures it reveals that the centre bar reduces in diameter in the middle and is wider at either end. Mine however, was a consistently large diameter all the way across, and this is why mine didn't fit properly. The bush then expanded too much when the centre bar was inserted, causing it to be almost impossible to then fit into the arm.

    The only reason I can think of is, yours were maybe original Volvo arms and bushes which is what the Powerflex bush will be designed to fit to. Mine on the other hand must have been aftermarket ones, not made to the same spec, but I couldn't have known this at the time. Truly gutted. Unless of course the S60R and V70R come with different centre bars through the original bushes? If so, Powerflex should be informed really. Mine:



    Still fits to the car fine, handles fine, no noises and doesn't show up discrepancies with laser tracking... still not right though.

    mines also like this and was a pick to get the bush in. im thinking about cutting the bush down as it looks crap. mine are oe volvo arms to.

  11. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leeds_finest View Post
    Hmmm this is a tough one Martin.

    Basically, the whole front end was very ropey on my car when I bought it. I say ropey, I just think 105k of spirited driving had taken it's toll. Originally, it was just the front drivers shock that was shot so I replaced both front shocks and carried on.

    When I felt that the whole front end needed overhaul, I changed practically everything - lower arm front bushes, lower arm rear bushes, ball joints, drive shaft bolts, track rod ends.. everything!

    So in reply to your question, I couldn't really gauge the difference either. However, one thing I can say is, changing your strut brace inserts + upper and lower stabiliser bushes to poly ones, you notice a difference at idle and also as the revs drop when you are letting the clutch out from stand still in first gear. This is because as engine intertia drops for that second or two, the vibrations are carried through the new bushes into the cabin. At idle, mine vibrates slightly more than before and it's noticeable when I pull off as you can feel the cabin vibrate significantly more too, but, once you're moving and normal gear changes are fine.

    My bushes were gubbed at 54k, as were the dampers.

    I think if you drive on bumpy roads these items are well past their best at 50k, with some focus ST drivers replacing them every 35k.

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  12. #50
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    thanks to martin for this write up i did my polybushes, but they where a to fit the g clamp had me going mad about 50 times trying to get it into the wishbone and lots of ffffing hell my backs broke took me 5 hours for the first one. the second one was 1 hour, all i had to do was push the polybush lip in the wishbone first then it was so easy but martin did say use a screwdriver first owell . i also did my small trans bush too it was well gone , and was easy to fit. took the car to get the Alignment sorted and it was almost bang on , car seems alot better round corners and feels tighter .well worth the 50 for the car to feel this good.

  13. #51
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    also my bushes fitted fine the right size i got Powerflex Part Number: PFF88-601 s60 fwd 00-09.

  14. #52
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    Glad I could be one help. Indeed, that's the same buh i used on mine. Sometimes, when pattern buhes have been used, the rod isn't fluted and distorts the bush. Not a problem that i had as my bushes had been on there from the factory and after 180k (120k plod abuse) any improvement is a big improvement lol
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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    martin where did you get the boost tube from for your gauge

  16. #54
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    It's 2mm push-fit pneumatic tube, think it comes from R.S. www.rs-online.com
    Many gauges use 6mm tho.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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    what i a nightmare today has been. the bush wouldnt sit right so ended up getting the pin turned down. when i started putting it back together the inner cv fell apart. im now covered head to toe in grease and have no gearbox oil.

  18. #56
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    Sorry to hear you're having such a hard time, did you undo the hub bolt before you pulled the wishbone?
    If you have a manual box, it takes 75/90 full synth.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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  19. #57
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    i didnt uno the hub nut but will when i do the other side. the other side will have to wait till next weekend as ill have to get the pin machined on other side aswell. i did the norty thing and used the old oil but ill will be putting fresh in. the inner cv was a nightmare to get back together. got a mate to help out in the end

  20. #58
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    Persevere mate, it'll be worth it in the end
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  21. #59
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    having to get the steel bit turned was prob the biggest headache but it means that its right. just hope it makes a difference as the bush i took out didnt seem to bad

  22. #60
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    Oh yeah, it makes a difference mate
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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