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  1. #1
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    How to polybush your wishbones while changing shocks

    If, like me, your Volvo is your only means of transport, and your missus is dead against performance upgrades, When you find that your shocks are shot, the excuse "it's done the bushes in too" could lead you to the following phrase..."It's £160 for a pair of wishbones but I can get a set of polybushes for £33 and they last forever!" I'll start with the bushes because I found doing it all in one go leads to the hub flapping about while you're trying to do something.

    So, here goes...

    Firstly, tools...

    With the wheel off, give everything you're planning to undo, a dam good going over with some Plus-Gas...

    Let it soak for a few minutes. The bolts are on the other side of the subframe. On the drivers side (as you see here) These are a pig to undo as there's no room to get a socket on so I used a 17mm ring spanner and a rubber mallet.

    Have a jack under the wishbone, just to hold it steady.

    Pull the assembly toward you and use something to wedge between the wishbone and the subframe. Giving you access to the bush. You can see how bad this bush is as I can push the rod over to one side with my thumb.

    With a 4mm drill, destroy some of the rubber to weaken it a bit...

    Grab the rod with a couple of adjustable spanners and turn it in one direction until you hear a crunch. then keep turning and eventually POP, out it comes!

    Burn the old rubber off the rod.

    So as not to get the rod too hot, burn it for a few minutes then let it cool. Wipe it with a rag and repeat 4 or 5 times until you end up with a clean rod...

    In the intervals between burnings, grab a hacksaw and remove the blade. Thread it through the hole in the wishbone and re-attach the handle. Find the square cut out in the remains of the bush-outer and cut through into it. Be careful not to cut the steel sleeve press-fitted into the wishbone.

    Now hammer a blunt screwdriver between the bush-outer and the steel sleeve, next to where you cut and twist.

    Keep prying the bush into itself and after a while, it will just pull out.

    Now, off to the shed with the rod and the new polybush. You can push the rod in part of the way by hand (plenty of copperslip required)

    Now put it in a vice and press it about half way, until the bit of the rod that's inside the bush reaches the vice jaw.

    Now, with a socket or anything to keep the rod away from the vice jaw (I used 2 little dumbell weights, taped together), press the rod all the way in. You should hear a "pop"
    Last edited by M-R-P; Sunday 6th November 2011 at 20:18.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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  3. #2
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    Interesting project.Watching.....
    2003 S60R. RaceS60R 3" DP, RaceS60R intake, Re-map performance remap, FMIC, D5 oil cooler

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  5. #3
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    Now, back to the car!
    coat the inside of the wishbone hole with good ol' copperslip

    Using your socket (dumbell weights) the same way as before, use a G-clamp to push the bush into the hole in the wishbone. It WILL try to go sideways so force the clamp square. You'll see that about half of the lip round the end of the bush goes into the hole. The rest, you have to gently push in with a screwdriver. once the whole end of the bush is in, it will easily press all the way in with the G-clamp.

    You'll know it's in when the lip pops out the other side and locks in.

    Turn the rod so the rounded side faces the subframe and bolt it back on. AS for torque settings? I did it up as hard as I could by hand with a spanner and tw@tted it twice with a rubber mallet

    That's it for the polybush side of things, let me know if I missed anything.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

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  7. #4
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    Ok, Now the shocks... First, crack the top nut on the shock, this will save some agro later...(thanks for the tip, Duane)

    Give the hub mount bolts another dose of Plus-gas and take the ABS wire out of it's brackets and drop it down, out of the way. Haynes book of lies says to disconnect it but it's not needed and will take longer.

    Because these bolts are notorious for corroding and refusing to undo, I wound another nut up the bolt to clean the thread a bit. More Plus-gas.

    Note the droplink is already off, 18mm open ended spanner and a torx key, easy peasy (and I forgot to take a pic)

    To undo the bolts, don't try to undo the nut side, you could bend the bolt. Undo the bolt-head side, pinning the nut with a socket and bar against the subframe. These are really tight. Treat it like tapping a thread - 2 turns out, 1 turn in so as not to damage the thread (if you want to re-use the bolts).

    Repeat on the lower bolts... at this point, I propped the hub on some wood, so it didn't wander off.

    Don't forget to soak your nuts! (and bolts)lol

    Now undo the 3 nuts at the top, leaving a few turns on one, to hold the strut while you get your hand on the base.

    Grab the bottom of the shock and undo the last nut at the top. now carefully remove the shock (careful not to catch the ABS wire)

    Now we have one shot shock! (I know the top mount is a bit iffy, gonna get that sorted when I got some more funds!)

    Compress the spring until the top mount plate wobbles about freely (lots of elbow-grease required)

    Just for Mr. Fandango... the top mount assembly in order of removal...

    The little plastic bracket that holds the ABS cable will need transferring to the new shock. Punch - out the little plastic pins and close the rivets from the other side, remove the bracket then reverse the process to refit.

    Take the opportunity to clean and inspect all parts.
    Fitting is the exact opposite of removal.
    And TADAA!

    All this done on my own in just under 4 hours, including cleaning up and washing the car!
    and the only casualty?

    There you go. If I missed anything, again, feel free to ask.
    Last edited by M-R-P; Sunday 6th November 2011 at 23:02.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

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  9. #5
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    Oh, I did this too but if you need a how-to on that, you don't deserve to hold a spanner!
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

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    Nice job done there, bet the car feels a huge amount more positive. One question, why only polybush one half of the lower torque mount?


    Gun Metal Grey - Volvo 850R - Saloon
    Thanks to Russ and team www.rtmechanics.co.uk

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    M-R-P (Sunday 6th November 2011)

  13. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndysR View Post
    Nice job done there, bet the car feels a huge amount more positive. One question, why only polybush one half of the lower torque mount?
    Cos that bush had disintegrated otherwise I would have left it well alone.

    Car feels "new" now. Really pleased with it, even the missus says it feels a load better!
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

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  15. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinrpeachey View Post
    Cos that bush had disintegrated otherwise I would have left it well alone.

    Car feels "new" now. Really pleased with it, even the missus says it feels a load better!
    Added brownie points all round then


    Gun Metal Grey - Volvo 850R - Saloon
    Thanks to Russ and team www.rtmechanics.co.uk

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    M-R-P (Sunday 6th November 2011)

  17. #9
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    Very nice write up there with pics too I like it, I bet the car feels 10 times better to drive now...

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    M-R-P (Sunday 6th November 2011)

  19. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim S70R View Post
    Very nice write up there with pics too I like it, I bet the car feels 10 times better to drive now...
    I bent one of the hub mount bolts doing the nearside, yesterday, so I'm not gonna give her a "test" til I replace it. Yeah took it for a 20 mile drive on crappy new forest roads and yeah, loads better,
    When I think it had done 182k on the same shocks! one barely had any pressure left in it. the other had no pressure or oil left in it!
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by martinrpeachey View Post
    I bent one of the hub mount bolts doing the nearside, yesterday, so I'm not gonna give her a "test" til I replace it. Yeah took it for a 20 mile drive on crappy new forest roads and yeah, loads better,
    When I think it had done 182k on the same shocks! one barely had any pressure left in it. the other had no pressure or oil left in it!
    When I changed to the Koni's my original shocks would compress practically on their own after the assembly was completely stripped. It, surprisingly, didn't feel that bad on the road but it now feels so stable that you'd have thought it was on rails I know the New Forest roads well, carefull of those horses... lol


    Gun Metal Grey - Volvo 850R - Saloon
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  22. #12
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    One thing I see you did fail on when doing the suspension change is where is the refreshments whilst doing this job lol

  23. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim S70R View Post
    One thing I see you did fail on when doing the suspension change is where is the refreshments whilst doing this job lol
    PMSL, Bro in law kept bringing the tea from time to time - with no bloody sugar in it! Don't worry tho, I got me some refreshments now
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

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  25. #14
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    LOL, missus just read this and said "wot you trying to do, put Haynes out of business?" "no" I said. "I give helpful information and my pictures on the same page as the words!"
    Got to admit, this was quite a job. I can barely move my hands to roll a fag and my back is kinda stiff... worth it tho. gotta lovely sweed to show for it
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

  26. #15
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    Mart, might be a stupid question, but why Polybush only one side of the Wishbone ?
    Does the back one not need doing ?

    DB.
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    Saffy V70R Auto estate
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  27. #16
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    very good write up and well explained im sure this will help many people

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  29. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dicky b t5 View Post
    Mart, might be a stupid question, but why Polybush only one side of the Wishbone ?
    Does the back one not need doing ?

    DB.
    The rear Bush rarely goes. You can polybush it (I think) but most people only do the front as this is where the "wooly" feeling comes from.
    I forgot to add, although the handling is sharper, there is a bit more road noise coming through the car. Not enough to be annoying though.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

  30. #18
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    when you buy those poly bushes dont you get 4? with respect I would have done the lot.
    .....sooper moose. '97 850R manual. Yum yum.

  31. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Niles View Post
    when you buy those poly bushes dont you get 4? with respect I would have done the lot.
    You have the option to buy a pair of front and a pair of rear or for 130 quid there's a full set which does wishbones and engine mounts.
    I only did my wishbones because my old ones were shot and it was an excuse to chuck an upgrade in. If the rear bushes go (180k on the same underpinnings) then I'll bung poly's in there too.
    Time was also a factor as the big sweed is our only means of transport.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

    2016 Swedish Day UK "Best Modified Swede"
    SOLD

    Got an old discovery now.

  32. #20
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    fair enough martin. Good job tho. 850 polys seem easier to do. Still a bit of a mission tho. messy job!
    .....sooper moose. '97 850R manual. Yum yum.

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