Reverse Intercooler Piping for ME7

**Wobbly Dave** · Tuesday 31st May 2011, 22:54

Just wondering if anyone with a V70 or S60 can tell me if this pipe over the top of the block joins to the top of the intercooler?

As I already have the same manifold - I think I can probably use generic pipe work such as seen here... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Volvo-70mm-All...item4ceddd911f

to make up the bottom parts.

If the top pipe does exist then all I need to is call the breakers to get one. Well at least that is the plan.

**Wobbly Dave** · Tuesday 31st May 2011, 23:47

Looking online it may be that all V70s with the ME7 have side entries?

http://www.swedishautoparts.com/shop...s/topimg.9.jpg

**The Flying Moose** · Tuesday 31st May 2011, 23:51

Dave I have been thinking about this over the last few days. I wreckon if you measure the distances and where you need the 90 degree bend (to turbo) and two 45 degree bends (to intercooler) any good exhaust centre should be able to bend or weld some stainless steel or aluminium into the correct shape.

It might be worth enquiring. Its definately something Im going to look into in more detail when I get home. If I come up with anything ill let you know.

**Wobbly Dave** · Wednesday 1st June 2011, 00:03

To be honest my initial reaction was to do the top pipe in the same way the pre-ME7. The complexity comes with the bottom pipe - need to cut the plastic feed pipe with the sensors prior to the ETM. Bit nervous about that as there is no way back (unless I buy a spare).

Ultimately if this costs loads then it is not worth the small gain.

**smithy** · Wednesday 1st June 2011, 08:44

Originally Posted by Wobbly Dave

To be honest my initial reaction was to do the top pipe in the same way the pre-ME7. The complexity comes with the bottom pipe - need to cut the plastic feed pipe with the sensors prior to the ETM. Bit nervous about that as there is no way back (unless I buy a spare).

Ultimately if this costs loads then it is not worth the small gain.

use an s60r/v70r rip mate might fit better just an idea

**Chad** · Wednesday 1st June 2011, 09:50

I have the top intercooler hose from a 2003 S60 T5 if you want wobbly??

**jardon** · Wednesday 1st June 2011, 10:10

My 2002 V70 intercooler has side entry/exit like the drawing you posted - no pipework enters the top or bottom. What does yours do Dave?

**Wobbly Dave** · Wednesday 1st June 2011, 15:04

Mine is a top & bottom jobby.

Chad - if you could let me have the top pipe then that would be a good start.

**p fandango** · Wednesday 1st June 2011, 16:06

Originally Posted by Wobbly Dave

Mine is a top & bottom jobby.

i think with the top & bottom intercooler & the ME7 set-up i think its got to be the shortest pipework you can do. You need basically the same pipework as BT

**Wobbly Dave** · Wednesday 1st June 2011, 16:29

Unfortunately not that simple as there are sensors on the plastic pipe going to the ETM. I have seen where Barnsley Bill has chopped his & that is probably where I will go. I may be able to just use a 90 degree bend hose to connect the old vertical steel pipe that goes to the bottom of the IC & connect that to the chopped feed pipe to the ETM.

**Alan M** · Wednesday 1st June 2011, 18:19

A good fabricator should be able to machine the required bosses then weld them to the required bend if you speak to them nicely.

**Wobbly Dave** · Thursday 2nd June 2011, 01:06

do you know of any?

**Wobbly Dave** · Tuesday 7th June 2011, 15:54

Thinking about the job - I can get a 16T hydraulic pipe bender for about £125 quid. Does upto 3" pipes.

It seems to be a popular mod and I was wondering if given that straight pipe is cheap - you can pick up a 1 metre T304 stainless for about 15 quid - would there be any interest in me making them? Certainly come out cheaper than the IPD stuff & you would' have to chop up your fuel rail cover as I have seen on certain DIY attempts.

There are univeral kits from about 70 quid on ebay - but the advantage of mine would be it would be a single pipe going over the top.

**The Flying Moose** · Tuesday 7th June 2011, 17:00

I would certainly be interested Dave. Pencil me in price dependant of course.

**Vikingxl** · Tuesday 7th June 2011, 17:25

Serious question here is this really worth the effort does a little rerouting of a pipe make that much difference. This isnt me trying to be funny or having a go but im just interested

**p fandango** · Tuesday 7th June 2011, 17:26

Originally Posted by Wobbly Dave

Thinking about the job - I can get a 16T hydraulic pipe bender for about £125 quid. Does upto 3" pipes.

It seems to be a popular mod and I was wondering if given that straight pipe is cheap - you can pick up a 1 metre T304 stainless for about 15 quid - would there be any interest in me making them? Certainly come out cheaper than the IPD stuff & you would' have to chop up your fuel rail cover as I have seen on certain DIY attempts.

There are univeral kits from about 70 quid on ebay - but the advantage of mine would be it would be a single pipe going over the top.

tbh Dave, not trying to spoil your idea. But having used Aluminium & Stainless the Alloy is about 1/3 of the weight. & 2nd i've looked into pipe benders myself but wasn't keen on them squashing the pipe to make the corners & you end up with a smaller diameter pipe than on the straight pieces. On the plus side you'll be able to do it alot cheaper than buying the seperate silicone joints

**Wobbly Dave** · Tuesday 7th June 2011, 17:39

It doesn't have to be stainless steel - alloy or alumininum or a mix will do.

There is no point me getting the press if it only gets used once. The only concern I have is the ends.

**p fandango** · Tuesday 7th June 2011, 17:44

Originally Posted by Wobbly Dave

The only concern I have is the ends.

you'll need silicone reducers on the ends anyway, but if your worried about them popping off i've never had one do it yet with straight cut ends (except the one's i've forgot to tighten lol)

**Alan M** · Tuesday 7th June 2011, 18:01

Ends of pipe can be flared on and anvil or in a vice on wood using a ball pein hammer. If the pipework is bent in a good mandrel tube bender you will have no deformation in the bends but if you use a pipe bender with former and guide the bends will have a slight deformity where they have had part of the pipe diameter reduced through being squashed slightly. A bead of weld round the ends of pipe is the best on both aluminium and steel to help with keeping the hoses on. That's if you don't have access to a pipe flaring machine for small (large in our cars case) diameter light gauge pipe.

The hydraulic pipe bender you mention, do you have a pic or model in mind? The reason I ask is that I have one and they are not for light gauge pipework. They are intended for tube which can be anything from 4mm wall thickness and up depending on pipe diameter.

**Wobbly Dave** · Tuesday 7th June 2011, 18:31

This was the bender I had in mind - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-16-TON-HYD...item2eac278fbe

there seem to be several of the same type for about the same price.