Last edited by Jamest5r; Tuesday 5th April 2011 at 20:56.
T35, 556Nm/410lbft & 361BHP/317WHP
"The problem with internet quotes, is that you don't know if they're real or not" - Abraham Lincoln
It really is very much dependant on individual cars, that calculator isn't going to be 100% accurate and it's accuracy will differ from car to car. Believe the calculator is setup more for RWD cars.
Only one true accurate way, proper timing equipment with the person driving to get a good 0-60 time (not driving for a good 1/4 mile time). Even then environmental factors will change results
Could do with some local flat straight tarmac to test the performance app on my phone
Last edited by Santa; Tuesday 5th April 2011 at 21:08.
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Cars : 2009 VW Passat CC 140 CR & 2015 VW Golf R. Uploaded Albums. Past Statuses (Or is that Stati?). Past Posts.
First find out what your true 62mph speed is on the clock, i use a sat nav to go along at 62mph and then check what the clock speed was (it's not 100% but more accurate than the speedo).
Then use a good digital camera to record it up to that speed.
Play it back on a pc, preferably using decent video editing software and then time it using that.
This is what i did for my t4 and got a 0-62mph (which i think was 65mph on the clock) and got 6.2 secs, i also filmed it to 100pmh (106mph(?) on the clock) and got 14.6. That was about 1.4secs quicker to 100mph than my mates standard t4, which was also an auto.
I always say you can't just use the clock speed for timing (for the 100mph time) because it can vary a lot, as an example my t4 was getting just under 14secs for 0-100mph, clock speed. Which is very fast and obviously not right.
"The problem with internet quotes, is that you don't know if they're real or not" - Abraham Lincoln
Could do with some local flat straight tarmac to test the performance app on my phone[/QUOTE]
well that rules out most roads round halesowen mate...
just got on line....been reading thru the posts....All i can say is, could nt say for def she is std but there is no signs of tampering at all , all i have done is put on the stuff that is in the sig.....i took her out last night about 8ish so it was cool and damp....but as i have said in other threads there is a lot of power which is why i put on the strut brace as when you used to kick her hard she would always pull across the road, also i had the post about when i put the boost gauge on her and was nt sure whether the gauge was reading wrong as it showed 20 psi on full kick down ....all i can say is she has quite a bit more power than the T5 i have and on the same stretch of private road using the same phone the T5 did it in 7 ish secs but as for how accurate it is, Gawd knows....all i am saying is what ever the precise 0 to 60 is...it is under 7 secs , also looks 1 sec quicker than the T5 and i am happy with that as a week or so ago i thought she was nt performing right ....Anyway she sounds and goes great so cant complain.....
V70R FWD 97 Auto Black, Strut Brace, Polybush top mount,RipSpeed Inverted Cone Filter, Silicone Vac Hoses
it can't be an exact formula because they'd need more time v's speed plots to show the speed curve of the car (ie quick off the line then backs or vice-versa). How do they measure the speed at York have they got a seperate speed gun? Think it was at the Lax Power show they were doing 0-60runs, but just measuring time over a set distance which is no better than the calculator we're using
Last edited by Santa; Wednesday 6th April 2011 at 07:48.
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I have found that most of my t5 s speedos have overread by 5mph which would explain the quick time. If you drive at 60 press the average speed reset button at an indicated 60and I bet the average speed will be 55-56 after a mile
Last edited by T5frankie; Wednesday 6th April 2011 at 08:09.
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