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  1. #1
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    c70 drivers window

    Having a bit of trouble with my window goes down fine but will only go up about 6 inches then seems to get stuck. Had the door car off yesterday and can't see anything wrong, the two pulleys look fine everythings greased up so im at a bit of a dead end. Anyone had any experience with these
    Currently driving a BMW 318 because it was cheap

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    The plastic jockey wheels break up, afraid you tend to have to buy the unit complete and the aren't cheap and are a PITA to fit properly

    It might be possible to replace the broken wheel but you'll have to do a lot of hunting round to find someone who can.

  3. #3
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    Where are these wheels ? only ones i could see were in the bottom of the door one at each end but there both intact and turn freely
    Currently driving a BMW 318 because it was cheap

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    there's one on each corner (2 top & 2 bottom)

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    Dave86 (Tuesday 4th January 2011)

  6. #5
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    Oh right cheers didn't see those will have a look at the weekend
    Currently driving a BMW 318 because it was cheap

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    I Am asuming that you have not previously adjusted the window travel etc',
    I Have experienced similar.... possibly pulleys.. grease / oil the hel out of them and also the cables in general... I have the largest issues are down to previous CAK handed adjustment which overstresses all components
    when it goes down does give a hefty clunk before it reaches the bottom of the travel if so it wont go back up because the class carriage ( the frame that holds the door glass ) is fouling a rib that runs across the inside of the door skin. Take off the door card ( five plastic clips across the bottom of the card ( push the centres in.. just one click.. dont loose them and the pry out the whole thing.. the centre pins should be retained.. you will figure it out ) there is also a star drive screw behind the small square cover in the hand hold pocket. Then remove the door latch trim, the innner door top seal will probably want to come away as you pry the card off... be carefull there are 5 connector block for speakers fuel cap / boot realease etc to take care of yet.
    once you have the card off and standing out of the way.
    recover the window switch block from the door card and reconnect and operate observing the noise and travel etc'
    if it is fouling the afore mentioned then the adjustment is done by two captive nuts and star drive bolt arrangements on the lower edge of the inner door, one front one rear, don't get heavy handed here untill you understand how these work you will bugger them up... I did and had to remake them..... slacken off the captive nut and then holding the captive nut with a ring spanner adjust the star drive nut... a little bit at a time, each time re-tightening the captive nut, asuming that the door hasn't been messed with before it should only need a very small adjustment to make, this is because you are treading a fine fine in clearing the fouling and getting the class to start to distance itself from the door seals and there for getting noisy when driving..... while you are there .. if you haven't had the car from new .. and you suspect that others have been messing with the window etc' check that the spacer washers are present between the larger star drive bolt and the glass carrier on the top rear and the door and the 12mm bolt in roughly the same place at the front of the door, these are there to set the offset of the glass to the door seals if they are not there you will never get wind noise free travel.. it has taken me many annoying attempts to stop the doors being noisy after I have fixed faults.. take your time and see how they work .. if they are there, if they are not you will need some nice thick whashers 1.5mm would be my guess.... put sliver of tape on them so that you can hold them in place whilst you thread in the bolts with care as they X thread really easy.
    Before you put the door card back intake it for a drive and check for noise, also check that the class when fully up does not pinch / foul the upper part of the body to glass seal. If it does lower the window roughly 3/4 you are now looking for a cut away in the lower rear section of the door more likely covered with grey sound proofing remove and you should see on the bottom / rear corner of the window carriage a vertical bolt ( male 7 or 8mm star dive.. a normal socket / spanner will fit ) you will see on the upper end of this bolt a plastic stop. This bolt regulates the upwards travel of the door glass, increase the amount of bolt thread showing below the plastic stoppper and the door glass vertical travel will be reduced and vice versa.. again adjust in small increments
    Take her for a drive and if all is well refit the door card.
    Enjoy

    SteveT
    RHRC

  8. #7
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    Cheers for the extremely detailed post will have another look this weekend
    Currently driving a BMW 318 because it was cheap


 

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