How to remove a front strut

**Flatout Phil** · Friday 30th April 2010, 23:51

The NEXT task to be understaken - changing the struts and uppper rubber mounts. This is a GREAT visual guide:

http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/

Although it does not mention any Volvo special tools. Will I need them?

**Tomcat** · Friday 30th April 2010, 23:54

No, you'll only need normal tools, just remember to get your geometry checked afterwards as the bottom bolts for the strut control the camber of the wheel.

**Flatout Phil** · Saturday 1st May 2010, 00:03

Originally Posted by Tomcat

No, you'll only need normal tools, just remember to get your geometry checked afterwards as the bottom bolts for the strut control the camber of the wheel.

Mine is all to ££££ anyway, so will be getting it done. How much time would you budget for each side once it is up on axle stands?

**Tomcat** · Saturday 1st May 2010, 00:05

Shouldn't take long if you know what your doing, maybe an hour a side?, obviously more if you've not done it before.

**Flatout Phil** · Saturday 1st May 2010, 00:09

Originally Posted by Tomcat

Shouldn't take long if you know what your doing, maybe an hour a side?, obviously more if you've not done it before.

Done it on things like BMW 520 E28, and VW Passat Mk 1, can't be much different, but that was a while back (er, like 10 years).

**Tomcat** · Saturday 1st May 2010, 01:10

At least you have an idea then, not like you've not held a spanner before,lol.

**Flatout Phil** · Saturday 1st May 2010, 08:12

Originally Posted by Tomcat

At least you have an idea then, not like you've not held a spanner before,lol.

No. That's true. Years ago I was into Imps, and I remember once removing an engine and gearbox, with a friend, in twenty minutes - that's called practice (and I don't get too much these days). Lucky to have a dad who never wanted to spend anything on getting his car fixed and I remember many a weekend in the garage doing all sorts of things. So when I got my own car (Dolomite 1300), the first thing I did was fit a new clutch, twin carbs and respray it. Which, on reflection, was quite ambitious.

But the BMW and the 850s are BIG AND COMPLICATED cars - or in other words, cars with air-con, fancy cooling, fuel injection, twin cams, timing belts, and loads of diddly bits, and engines you can't lift. I could carry an Imp complete engine in my arms (not sure I could now)!
Also, I don't currently have a covered workspace, let alone a garage - and I have much less time: but one of these days...

**Tomcat** · Saturday 1st May 2010, 08:58

I know exactly what you mean, I used to do all my own jobs because I either didn't trust anyone else to do it right or I couldn't afford for them to do it. Now age is playing a major part in it and I just can't be arsed doing the larger jobs that I wouldn't have thought twice about doing before.

**phil_woods** · Saturday 1st May 2010, 09:37

on my v70 when I stipped the strut down there was a little cross type nut which was difficult to shift (volvo special tool required). I ended up with an adjustable spanner on it which worked a treat.
I dont know if its the same on the 850 but thouht it was worth a mention. good luck

**Flatout Phil** · Saturday 1st May 2010, 12:42

Originally Posted by Tomcat

At least you have an idea then, not like you've not held a spanner before,lol.

Have been a spanner a few times though...

**Tomcat** · Saturday 1st May 2010, 13:08

Originally Posted by Flatout Phil

Have been a spanner a few times though...

Lol, yeah me too.

**skirmish998** · Monday 3rd May 2010, 00:50

yeah the cross nut on the top is a pain in the ass. it will shift but is easier if your top mounts aren't sh***d like mine was. other than that the only issue i had was having to readjust the spring clamps. not a huge amount of space under the arch so once off take care and respace the clamps to make life easier. think it took me and a truck mechanic 30-45 mins to get the bugger off reassembled and back on plus the raising and lowering obviously. the joys of a pit and well stocked garage!