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  1. #1241
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    Toeless Graeme (not slow Graham)

    well thats one way to tell us apart. im running a s60r dmf and clutch. it was matt who had the smf. i asked him about it befor i got my clutch and he said if was me hed go dmf. said was rattling on tickover and bite didnt feel the same
    s60 2.4 t5 eibach springs,up rated rear anti roll bar, poly bushed wishbones, poly lower engine mount, fmic, bmc air filter, 3" decat, 2.5" stainless exhaust,hlm remap 328bhp,

  2. #1242
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    Matt - oh yeah, where did he go?
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

    310.2bhp / 333ft/lb

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  3. #1243
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    I thought it sounded more gansta?

    "Why they call him Toeless Graeme?"
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  5. #1244
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    Matt - oh yeah, where did he go?

    he sold his s60 after the ecu failed and bought a civic 2.2 cdti
    s60 2.4 t5 eibach springs,up rated rear anti roll bar, poly bushed wishbones, poly lower engine mount, fmic, bmc air filter, 3" decat, 2.5" stainless exhaust,hlm remap 328bhp,

  6. #1245
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    Quote Originally Posted by graemewelch View Post
    he sold his s60 after the ecu failed and bought a civic 2.2 cdti
    That's right. I loose track sometimes.
    19t, greens, 3" inlet, 3" downpipe with race cat, V70R catback, autotech map...

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  7. #1246
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    does sound like this TTV stuff is all that good?
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  8. #1247
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-R-P View Post
    That's right. I loose track sometimes.
    lose..................

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  10. #1248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wobbly Dave View Post
    does sound like this TTV stuff is all that good?
    Ask eddie with the kit car- he seems to speak very highly of it from what i have seen on his thread.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wobbly Dave View Post
    does sound like this TTV stuff is all that good?
    My 940 has ttv and had no probs at all .and you can push loads of power though them and they will never break .peeps with skylines and thrown over a 1000 bhp though the ttv flywheel with no probs .

  12. #1250
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    I've read the last 10 pages of the thread and think that when you ran the car with not enough oil and it leaking was the time you caused the start of all the damage.If the oil pressure light ever comes on with an engine speed of 2000RPM or more you will NEVER get away without any damage. It's quite normal to have the same damage as yours as a result of momentary loss of oil pressure, if the car is then carried on being used. I would in future check you oil level more often and always address oil leaks.

    The piston to cylinder head clearance is less than the thickness of the bearings so if the engines are ran once the bearings are so badly worn than a very loud knocking can be heard the piston WILL hit the cylinder head as in your case. From your pics I can clearly see that the piston has contacted the head for quite some time and will of damaged the head to some degree and might of closed up the top piston ring grove so that should be carefully measured. When the head is being repaired make sure that it is very clean and heated up before being welded, I would TIG weld it and not MIG weld it if possible if a skim doesn't get down to the level of the damage. I can get it TIG welded at work if you need?

    The crank and affected rod won't be salvageable if there was 4mm of vertical piston movement, I would also replace everything on the lubrication system. It should be fine to flush out the turbo oil feed if done well. I won't speak ill of Turbo Dynamics but I would strongly advise you to be very clear with ALL wording to them and ensure you get replies from them using the terms you used and not "to customers spec". Also it might help if if you see the wording of the invoice before paying them any money.

    For rebuilding it I would still advise shimming the block even with 81.5mm bore and as Colin said he can do that easily for you. I have proven air is drawn past the oil pick up pipe with just one O ring so as Eddy pointed out fitting two is a good idea. I would if possible fit an oil pump with a metal relief valve cap not a plastic one. Also if there is not a very good reason genuine gaskets ect would be wise and definitely genuine engine sealant as that affects some engine bearing clearances.

    Sorry to see your engine failures, if the post seems blunt it is just because it's intended to help you.

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  14. #1251
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    I appreciate your candor.

    Trust me this is an oil pressure lesson hard learnt. All I knew was that I had a small blow by on the oil cap seal - which I did sort out. I am not entirely certain where all the oil went. I'd feel a little incredulous if it all came out of the top. However it happened - something I hope to find out - fact is the shell let go because it got too hot. The shell got too hot because of friction = no oil - end of.

    I am banking the double o-ring thing. I am still a little uncertain about the block shim, so if someone could kindly explain what the process is and what risk it mitigates then fine.

    Head is still with motorcast so I will ask them to check that. I don't know if the harder material in the wiseco piston will have saved it or even caused more harm.
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    Shimming the block mitigates the risk of the liner flexing to the degree that it will crack where the expansion joint is next to the other liner. If it helps plenty of members will have pics of shims in place if that help.

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    But given that I've already had the cylinders cut to fit the new pistons - so removing more material to fit a shim (forgive my stupidity) would that not further weaken the piston liner? Or does the shim go in the expansion joint?
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  17. #1254
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wobbly Dave View Post
    But given that I've already had the cylinders cut to fit the new pistons - so removing more material to fit a shim (forgive my stupidity) would that not further weaken the piston liner? Or does the shim go in the expansion joint?
    The liners/clyiner walls have casting lines between them ready for shims to fit directly in

  18. #1255
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    dave i feel your pain mate but all this to get to where how far do u go?
    Last edited by WOODY T5; Saturday 27th July 2013 at 00:22.


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  19. #1256
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    Quote Originally Posted by WOODY T5 View Post
    dave i feel your pain mate but all this to get to where how far do u go?
    Ah yes the futility of it all.
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    I liked my TTV/Kalmar flywheel. More rattle from the transmission at idle and more transmission NVH under load relative to a DMF but otherwise all positive. If increased NVH is not an option then I would stick with the DMF but if Betsy is track/quarter focused then you'll find it freer revving and clutch engagement will be more positive (which I really liked).
    2005 (163) V70 D5 SE Premium Pack 130k. 10" sub/Fli amp with Grom audio kit. Shark stage 1 with EGR delete and 320mm discs. Enjoying the comfort and (relative) economy.

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  22. #1258
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    Silly question again - NVH?
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  23. #1259
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    noise vibration and harshness
    2005 (163) V70 D5 SE Premium Pack 130k. 10" sub/Fli amp with Grom audio kit. Shark stage 1 with EGR delete and 320mm discs. Enjoying the comfort and (relative) economy.

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  25. #1260
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wobbly Dave View Post
    But given that I've already had the cylinders cut to fit the new pistons - so removing more material to fit a shim (forgive my stupidity) would that not further weaken the piston liner? Or does the shim go in the expansion joint?
    Dave, I don't think you understand what shimming involves.

    This is before shimming:


    This is after:


    All you are doing is filling the 10mm deep gap between the cylinder liners.
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