Silver C70 T5 - Manual - 400BHP

[iancho]

Good luck Dave I don't envy you today sounds like a right PITA... Let us all know how its going

[Wobbly Dave]

Given that I am back to the drawing board on this one - I have a whole heap of design concerns to worry about.

Which block to use, which crank, which oil pump, to shim or not to shim, if shimmed then what about the pistons I have.

I am not certain of the radiator - the alloy ones look nice but don't have the overflow & I am not sure about where such an overflow should be tapped.

I am going to lower the compression by taking material out of the piston crown so that needs to be sorted.

The pistons show that the skirts have been rubbing against the cylinder walls & I am not sure what that means.

And I am not working right now so I need to put this down & concentrate on the real job.

[T5frankie]

Have you got to buy pistons and rods again Dave?

[Wobbly Dave]

Probably 1 conrod for sure. The other 4 look ok, but visual inspection will only be part of it. I'll be looking to be sure that the balance and setup is spot on.

Turbo at least has the all clear now & will be returning shortly.

I am hoping to re-use the Pistons.

[Wobbly Dave]

All but ready to fall out now. Just the crank pulley side mounting bolts x2 to undo then the subframe can come down.

long half shaft is out, bottom ball joints off, rack is unbolted from the subframe, gearbox is drained, short half shaft refuses to come out of the diff (even when I asked nicely) - but it is all separate from the 2 struts.

i wouldn't mind a hand if anyone is willing?

Plan is to suspend the steering rack - what remains of the engine & gearbox - probably remove the exposed oil feed stop it getting damaged.

This is the point where the 2 poster comes into its own. Oh well never mind. Thinking the front bumper may need to come off just to give me extra room.

Only real bless is that as this thing has only recently been bolted together - there is nothing that is rusted solid or being awkward, Even the crank pulley nut came undone without too much fuss - just an almighty craaaaack!!

[GregE102]

Given that I am back to the drawing board on this one - I have a whole heap of design concerns to worry about.

Which block to use, which crank, which oil pump, to shim or not to shim, if shimmed then what about the pistons I have.

I am not certain of the radiator - the alloy ones look nice but don't have the overflow & I am not sure about where such an overflow should be tapped.

I am going to lower the compression by taking material out of the piston crown so that needs to be sorted.

The pistons show that the skirts have been rubbing against the cylinder walls & I am not sure what that means.

And I am not working right now so I need to put this down & concentrate on the real job.

Given that I am back to the drawing board on this one - I have a whole heap of design concerns to worry about.

Which block to use, which crank, which oil pump, to shim or not to shim, if shimmed then what about the pistons I have.

I am not certain of the radiator - the alloy ones look nice but don't have the overflow & I am not sure about where such an overflow should be tapped.

I am going to lower the compression by taking material out of the piston crown so that needs to be sorted.

The pistons show that the skirts have been rubbing against the cylinder walls & I am not sure what that means.

And I am not working right now so I need to put this down & concentrate on the real job.

What ever spec you go for? If I was you building it again I would do every thing to make it safe I think with the power you are running and the size of the Turbo getting the liners shimmed is a must, using your old oil pump is a good Idea, People on here don't like water injection or Methanol but it is actually a coolant so on a hot day it will help a little bit with AIT's, also an additional oil cooler like the ones used on the focus RS and the D5's, yes you will have to fit a different sump but it will massively help oil temps, and Gauges with your mods are a must, oil temp & pressure and AFR, these 3 things will tell you if there is a problem again! For cash reasons I would stick with the same 2.3 block, the option of fitting a 2.4 is there, these are little gems of an engine but then you would have to change other things, standard Volvo cranks are good for more power then you will ever reach! once quoted by RT Mechanics just make sure you get the right bearing shells and bits for it
What ever you decide to do Good luck!

[Wobbly Dave]

So well written I've been quoted twice LOL. Thanks for your feedback. Planning to get the subframe, remains of my engine & g/b dropped this evening. Gonna clean up the frame, sand it back & spray paint it.

[smithy]

What ever spec you go for? If I was you building it again I would do every thing to make it safe I think with the power you are running and the size of the Turbo getting the liners shimmed is a must, using your old oil pump is a good Idea, People on here don't like water injection or Methanol but it is actually a coolant so on a hot day it will help a little bit with AIT's, also an additional oil cooler like the ones used on the focus RS and the D5's, yes you will have to fit a different sump but it will massively help oil temps, and Gauges with your mods are a must, oil temp & pressure and AFR, these 3 things will tell you if there is a problem again! For cash reasons I would stick with the same 2.3 block, the option of fitting a 2.4 is there, these are little gems of an engine but then you would have to change other things, standard Volvo cranks are good for more power then you will ever reach! once quoted by RT Mechanics just make sure you get the right bearing shells and bits for it
What ever you decide to do Good luck!

The cranks on a whiteblock start the flex after a certain bhp they have found this out in Sweden when pushing mad power out of the whiteblock but we are talking 500 bhp onwards though.the redblock never had the same problem .if peeps can speak Swedish then you find alot of info regarding mods that we don't know over here .like you can buy billy coil overs for a 940 in Sweden but now were else .

[GregE102]

Cheers Smithy

Did not know that! I had heard from a fair few people over the years that they where good for 600 ish but did not know of the flexing!
But Not many people in the UK have gone over the 500 mark apart from one that I can think of and its proved nothing but unreliable in that state of tune! Also not being in to building another engine I have forgotten a lot of what I asked the guys with regards to different blocks and stuff!
I would say the most WD could get out of his car BHP wise, if he was to fit ported and flowed head with the bigger valves and the use of water injection kit with methanol would be close to the 500 Bhp give or take 10 Bhp, As Black beast had pretty much full spec apart from Big valve head and WI Methanol which we know to be worth 25-30 Bhp also steve did not have the massive 70mm intercooler as well which is worth more again and what every the big valve head gives? which has got again to be an improvement! Plus WD has the GTX series which is worth a few more horses to!
But to be honest having driven Steve's Car and Tim Williams as well, you had better bring a fresh pair of pants with you when giving them the beans and had a good pot of coffee that morning!
I think to want more than what they have is not necessary!

Cheers Greg

[LiamT4]

I'm surprised you don't already have an extra oil cooler dave.

[GregE102]

I'm surprised you don't already have an extra oil cooler dave.

If he already has a front mounted oil cooler, knowing that WD dose track days would go for both given that it's an ME7 and it will pull timing with heat anyway!

[Wobbly Dave]

My oil cooler is the water cooled jobby attached to the rear of the sump. Not sure how I'd run another one - though I will look into it.

Sorry looking excuse for an engine came down with the frame this evening. Took me about 3 attempts to get the modified engine stand frame (I took the upright bit off) into the right place so I could get to all the subframe bolts...





one wheel arch liner short of freedom (I think i may have to take the front bumper off to get it back in)


For the more observant - you now know what donor car supplied my 4th gearbox.

[dtp]

I have the D5 water/oil cooler fitted its a direct replacement and twce as big as a T5 cooler. Works well and I don't suffer any loss of oil pressure like you can with an extra external one. Part number 31201912

[partsforvolvos.com]

those d5 oil coolers have a habit of splitting though - we used to get a fair few in with completely contaminated cooling system, which we did not on the petrols. it's swings and roundabouts .

then they had to have a week's worth of daz cleaning out to sort it.

[S70T5Chris]

those d5 oil coolers have a habit of splitting though - we used to get a fair few in with completely contaminated cooling system, which we did not on the petrols. it's swings and roundabouts .

then they had to have a week's worth of daz cleaning out to sort it.

That's interesting. Not something I've heard of before. None of the people I know using the D5 oil cooler (and there are a fair few of us now) have had any problems as far as I'm aware.

[dtp]

those d5 oil coolers have a habit of splitting though - we used to get a fair few in with completely contaminated cooling system, which we did not on the petrols. it's swings and roundabouts .

then they had to have a week's worth of daz cleaning out to sort it.

That's the first I have heard of it as well. When did you have the returns? I am going to google this to see if anything comes up.

[partsforvolvos.com]

we had a few of them over several years- within and out of warranty.
there was line of though that the sump valve might have been responsible for causing excess pressure and the cooler failing, but as this could not be tested directly the best thing to do was to change the sump as a precaution whenever this happened.
i cant remember a petrol one failing off the top of my head. - is the oil pressure higher in a diesel?

[dtp]

we had a few of them over several years- within and out of warranty.
there was line of though that the sump valve might have been responsible for causing excess pressure and the cooler failing, but as this could not be tested directly the best thing to do was to change the sump as a precaution whenever this happened.
i cant remember a petrol one failing off the top of my head. - is the oil pressure higher in a diesel?

I googled D5 oil cooler problems and only came up with three between 2008-2013. All fitted to a D5. I don't know if the oil pressure is higher on a diesel but I would have thought no. I have an S60R with the D5 oil cooler fitted so my sump might be different to a D5 sump. Only time will tell

[partsforvolvos.com]

fingers crossed, it if has already been ok, it will carry on that way.

[Wobbly Dave]

What empirical data exists to require additional oil cooling? Or is this just a feeling?