Silver C70 T5 - Manual - 400BHP

[iancho]

I don't know what to say Dave it appears nothing will go right for you at times after all the effort you have put in... I feel for you and hope that a solution can be found... Gutted to be reading this.

[claymore]

There is evidence of some piston slap - I looked again at the bottom of the cyl. head on #2 - if you look carefully at the 2 edges of the piston crown & the sides of the valve recess there are matching shiny bits.

My next door neighbour is a mechanic & I showed him - it was something I had not initially spotted.





He is of an opinion that the cap bolts have some how come loose.

That was my initial thought, I think there's too much movement for a spun bearing.

[Wobbly Dave]

took a while to get the sump off. Spent ages trying to pry it off once all the bolts were removed but it wouldn't budge. In the end - I lost my rag - got a long piece of wood put it against the empty dip stick hole and hit the wood - hard - wivanammer.

That shifted it. I also had to bend down the flange that welded to the side of the subframe.

There is no good news I am afraid. End cap bolts on number 2 were intact. Less could be said for the big end bearing - no so much spun as completely vanished. Rod cap & big end on the conrod look like they've got slightly warm (slightly in the sarcastic way).


Anyway I found my bearing...



and here..



look there's some more...



The end of no 2 looks like someones been hitting it with a axe



I am sure it is not supposed to be that colour...



I don't have a micrometer but wisdom would say that the crank is fit for the bin and maybe that conrod too.

I don't have much faith in the block - because something has gone wrong with the oil supply, right?

It's all gotta come out. I am not a happy bunny right now. Back to the drawing board. This time I am going to build it right.

[V70 Graham]

Sorry to hear this Dave, was hoping for a better outcome for you.
Glad you are continuing with the project though, like I said earlier this is a 'one of a kind' build and when you have it finished 'Betsy' will be one hell of a quick motor.

[dtp]

Not good news Dave. Did you use a new Volvo oil pump as a few have had issues with them on their rebuilds.
I think it's time to source a low mileage 2.4 T5 engine and start from there. (Use the original oil pump with the new engine)

[stribo]

Gutted for you Dave. After all the time, effort and money you've put into this, for that to happen is a right kick in the made. You have far more patience than me, I think if I was in the same position I'd have taken a match to it by now.

[graemewelch]

dave im realy gutted for you. i wanted to be wrong about the the shells. previous experience had me almost sure it was what you found. is the crank realy bad. it get it checked out. you may get away with a regrind and oversized shells. i dont think youve done anything wrong on the build. youve just been very unlucky. i didnt see any corners being cut. keep your chin up dave and if i can help with out let me know.

[WOODY T5]

Gutted for u Dave after all that hard work but stick with it son will come very good after the rebuild

[Wobbly Dave]

I have another crank in my old engine - so that's one option. I have no idea why this shell self-destructed - other than some low oil condition existed and how that occured is a mystery.

The crank didn't look bad (but I don't know what a bad crank looks like) but it would need measuring.

Little end bearings all feel fine.

the oil pump was new AFAIK.

I think I will be installing oil temp & pressure sensors - so that something like this cannot happen again - or if it does I can catch it before anything bad happens.

[Yosser]

Curiously enough dooby's car seized on no.2 when it failed, is there a reason why no.2 would go first?

[graemewelch]

I have another crank in my old engine - so that's one option. I have no idea why this shell self-destructed - other than some low oil condition existed and how that occured is a mystery.

The crank didn't look bad (but I don't know what a bad crank looks like) but it would need measuring.

Little end bearings all feel fine.



the oil pump was new AFAIK.

I think I will be installing oil temp & pressure sensors - so that something like this cannot happen again - or if it does I can catch it before anything bad happens.

wise move with gauges. heres a pic of a bad crank from megane dci i rebuilt earlier this year

[Wobbly Dave]

Comparing just 2 of the lowest journals (I couldn't be bothered to get my tools out just to take the photos)

Journal 5...


vs

Journal 2...



Whaddaya think?

To me there seems some of the edge missing but I can't really tell - they just look different.

[graemewelch]

youll get away with a polish on that dave. at most youll need a new conrod. youve been very lucky. that could of wiped the crank out. conrod might even be ok. any close up pics

[Wobbly Dave]

Can that happen in-situ or does the crank still have to come out?

[t5 pete]

Can that happen in-situ or does the crank still have to come out?

Really bad news dave I really do feel for you as for the polish of the crank it will need to be removed and sent to a machine shop for a polish or re gring then polish

[Biff]

That looks alright to me Dave, I'd expect a lot more signs of massive heat like in Graeme's picture for it to of bent or warped.
Bad luck mate but it could've been a lot worse. A polish wont cost you a fortune. Just the labour involved removing it really.

[Wobbly Dave]

But given I have a spare crank - which would be the best to use?

[deathrider311271]

i would put money on it being the oil pump at fault here, there have been several cases of this on new engine builds, Dave speak to Tim Williams he has a solution to the new oil pump problem.

[Wobbly Dave]

what fault is that?

[T5frankie]

i would put money on it being the oil pump at fault here, there have been several cases of this on new engine builds, Dave speak to Tim Williams he has a solution to the new oil pump problem.

simon do you mention Tim williams in every post? lol