Did I read somewhere about cranking it over with full throttle (even if it takes a couple of minutes) but not to keep trying as the fuel just washes the boores.
Edit: Mine would sometimes not start untill it had built up fuel pressure
Did I read somewhere about cranking it over with full throttle (even if it takes a couple of minutes) but not to keep trying as the fuel just washes the boores.
Edit: Mine would sometimes not start untill it had built up fuel pressure
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Jamest5r (Monday 12th September 2011)
Have you made sure the Crank sensor is picking up the flywheel properly? It could be a case of positioning as this was a manual conversion so maybe something isn't lined up correctly. Take the sensor out and make sure its picking up/above its ring in the correct position. You can crank the car and check to see if the reading fluctuates with a meter connected to the sensor pins to see if it is working for a quick test. Also a silly question but if it ran rough when started the once is the cam sensor plate fitted in the correct plane and not 180 degrees out? I have done this and caused problems when rushing in the dark one build many moons ago. Check all earth straps to the block from the frame are clean and tight with some copper slip just to help with contact. See how you go with those checks then come back and some more ideas can be thrown in.
Jamest5r (Monday 12th September 2011)
Maybe it's just a case of having dry hydraulic tappets, the engine has been dry for sometime, and the valve clearances aren't quite right atm? Would also explain the engine noise, perhaps next time you run it you should take it for a drive, if you can, if not give it some gentle revs to see about bleeding the tappets though. Just a thought.. Great news that your finally getting it running, if not quite as reliably as you'd like it's still a good step in the right direction
Jamest5r (Monday 12th September 2011)
Hows the car coming on
Jamest5r (Friday 30th September 2011)
Sounds good mate looks a nice motor and you have put a lot of work into it as well
Jamest5r (Saturday 29th October 2011)
Well i thought i had better try and sort this bitch out as ive had no luck in getting my auto-elec "mate" to come over so i got a code reader of Chad(thanks mate) and what i got was 314 cam sensor and 214 rpm signal sensor (guessing that's crank sensor) so £110 lighter for 2 brand new one's and bloody nothing and still getting the same 2 fault codes up, ££££££!!!
Could the ecu failed?? any idea's pls lads before i burn the effing bitch.
Cheers
T35, 556Nm/410lbft & 361BHP/317WHP
So you've got crank and cam sensor fault codes stored? Which ECU has the car currently got fitted to it? If you've got a manual ECU in it might be worth switching to the auto ecu just to test. Does the fuel pump prime when you switch the ignition on? Do you get a spark and are the injectors injecting fuel when your cranking then engine over?
Jamest5r (Saturday 29th October 2011)
Hi Andy, the ecu is from another t5r and it ran perfectly in mine before this last engine drop.
Fuel pump primes with good pressure.
No spark but defo pumping fuel as it stinks after a while lol.
T35, 556Nm/410lbft & 361BHP/317WHP
Jamest5r (Saturday 29th October 2011)
I've got an uprated ipd coil here james.
Do you want to have a lend, I could shot it in the parcel with the ebc if you like.
Jamest5r (Saturday 29th October 2011)
Getting good reading from all the contact's with a multi-meter but just getting nothing at the end if you see what i mean, Adam TT bloke is the only ecu expert i know and would gladly give him 500 quid if it meant my car would run lol
T35, 556Nm/410lbft & 361BHP/317WHP
No probs mate, I'll get it sent out on monday for ya.
Iirc it's got the bracket aswell so you won't have to make one
Jamest5r (Saturday 29th October 2011)
Have you checked all your fuses, I am sure you have thought it's worth checking, no.1 fuse which should be a 15amp fuse is a fuse for the automatic transmission it is also a fuse for the ignition system. Maybe your electrical guy blew the fuse when doing the wiring reworkings? The fact you have an absent signal from both the cam and crank sensors suggests a common factor like poor connection etc etc...
Jamest5r (Saturday 29th October 2011)
Another thing worth mentioning is when the battery voltage on mine gets low, usually when I leave it for a while and not use it, the engine will crank and not fire I know it's getting fuel but not a spark, when it does this I have to take it off and charge it for about an hour. I trust the battery is in a good state of charge at the moment.
Jamest5r (Saturday 29th October 2011)
If you havn't got is sorted by the time I get my car back from the tuners, your welcome to borrow my TT
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