Front hub bearing ..

[st1t5]

I think the front drivers wheel bearing has gone on my C70, it appears its the complete hub i have to replace so anybody know if its easy enough to change over ?



Infact, just being looking through my receipts and noticed the front drivers bearing was replaced 22k miles ago which seems abit early to be needing replaced again to me !! ... are these T5's known for eating front bearing ? ...

[cookie]

its not a dificult job (needs an E16 IIRC inverted torx socket thingy) and unless genuine then they can fail in that sort of mileage - It depends on what sort of mileage you do, if you can do job yorurself (40mins - 1hr a side may be less) genuine will last considerably longer than scan tech or others, genuine isn't cheap, but there isn't AFAIK a copy anywhere near the quality, I replaced both fronts with scantech cos I got them silly cheap (less than a 1/4 of genuine price) my car isn't gonna do probably more than 30k in the next 5 years and will probably be scrapped b4 then, so even if I do bearings twice I'm quids in, however if it has to go to a garage to be done, then really its got to be genuine.

hope that makes sense

Ben

Mines 99MY and its strip as if changing brakes, then, slaken off the 4 bolts on the bearing hub, remove ball joint pinch bolt, remove ball joint, tap drive shaft through hub, remove hub, and reasemmble with new hub

simples

[Rufe]

The first question is was the replacement part used a genuine volvo part or a copy. We do sell hubs now and again, but the volvo ones are generally good for well over 100,000 miles, if a lot more. I personally have never heard of a volvo hub failing so early.

You are right though, it is a complete hub, you cant just change the bearing. We sell these with discount, the <1998 version is different to the 1999> version, so if you are unsure exactly which year it is (often there is confusion around 1998 and 1999) i can tell you from the registration number.

These are not cheap as retail price on the genuine hub kits is £172.50 including vat, and we sell them at a bit less at £146.63 plus postage. This is why people can be inclined to go for cheaper alternatives, but it can prove a false economy. If you want one please let me know in a pm and i can give you ordering details and a reference number to use if calling.

Simon

[bsr295]

just done mine cost £118.00 trade had to strip hub of and undo torx bolts with a windy gun.

[st1t5]

Thanks lads, and thanks for the offer Rufe

The car is in getting its MoT as we speak so i have told them to look into the bearing aswell .. not sure if the garage will use a genuine or aftermarket item ... but yeah i agree that the genuine item would be a better buy in the long run, no point in buying a Volvo for its hardyness then fitting cheap parts .. lol
The last time it was done (22k ago) it was stuck to the shaft as Volvo use a metal glue ?? .... Volvomax left it attached to a press all night and it still would not come off the shaft, in the end the shaft broke aswell so i ended up getting a new bearing and a new shaft ...

[cookie]

Thanks lads, and thanks for the offer Rufe

The car is in getting its MoT as we speak so i have told them to look into the bearing aswell .. not sure if the garage will use a genuine or aftermarket item ... but yeah i agree that the genuine item would be a better buy in the long run, no point in buying a Volvo for its hardyness then fitting cheap parts .. lol
The last time it was done (22k ago) it was stuck to the shaft as Volvo use a metal glue ?? .... Volvomax left it attached to a press all night and it still would not come off the shaft, in the end the shaft broke aswell so i ended up getting a new bearing and a new shaft ...

Its only the CV joint shaft that goes through bearing, It wouldn't (although never tried) be that difficult to remove hub from car with CV joint, and seperate on a bench (99my onwards are easier to dissamble than pre 99)

[Torch S70R]

as long as the bearing carrier bolts are undone then a hub puller should do the trick
slow process but it does eventually go, the hardest part of the job imho is getting the wishbone balljoint free and even thats fairly easy to do

[nobananas]

It's true that Volvo do seem to threadlock their C/V joints into the hubs which can make them a swine to remove. I replaced the front wheel bearing on my 850 a couple of weeks ago, the trick to getting the splined shaft out of the hub is to use a little heat on the end of the shaft from a blowtorch, this will soften the threadlock and make removal of the shaft much easier. To remove the hub assembly itself undo the 4 torx bolts (but dont completely remove them) then you can use a hammer on the heads of the bolts to punch the hub out of the carrier (they are usually rusted in solid) then when it's loose, remove the bolts completely and remove the hub.

[st1t5]

Its only the CV joint shaft that goes through bearing, It wouldn't (although never tried) be that difficult to remove hub from car with CV joint, and seperate on a bench (99my onwards are easier to dissamble than pre 99)

Yip your right, it was the cv joint, but the garage (Volvomax) could not seperate the 2 apart, so they took the cv joint off the car and tried it on the bench, they then left it overnight with pressure on it, but still it would not budge, they then phoned and told me they were gonna use heat but it might ruin the bearings in the cv joint ...... which it did, so i eneded up having to get a new cv joint aswell .....

Volvomax did say that it is common for the threadlock Volvo use to make things abit more difficult but had never seen it as bad as mine was ...