Suspension Replacement

**JimmyBurnWorld** · Tuesday 29th September 2009, 19:16

Let's say I go out and purchse an ex-police T5. It's going to be high miles and a bit tired on the suspension front.

So, from peoples experiences, which suspension components are likely to need replacing, and how much approximatley will the parts cost.

Assumptions:

About 2005
Mileage >120K
Nivomat self-leveling
Possibly D5 front setup (as per info in the ex-police buyers guide)

How will the wear compare with a comparable age and mileage civilian car?

**thebadger** · Wednesday 30th September 2009, 08:15

I fitted Koni FSD's to my 2001 ex-plod, dunno if they have them for the 2004>.

My drivers side shock had just started to leak when I fitted them. @80K miles...

So prone to failure. Consider new powerflex front wishbone bushes while you do it.

**cornclose** · Wednesday 30th September 2009, 21:45

I guess it depends on how many miles it's done and how hard it's been (ab)used.

It's possible that some of the suspension may have already been replaced, depending on mileage, but unless you have some history/proof of that, you'll probably never know. Suspension is one of those things that you never really know how bad (or good) it is unless you replace the lot.

I replaced mine (the whole lot, pretty much...) at 90,000 miles (ish) and to be honest the difference was so drastic that it's like having a brand new car.

If you get an x-plod with anything from 120-150,000 miles on the clock, it'll either be totally shot or will already have been replaced (IMO).

**JimmyBurnWorld** · Thursday 1st October 2009, 11:33

Originally Posted by cornclose

I guess it depends on how many miles it's done and how hard it's been (ab)used.

It's possible that some of the suspension may have already been replaced, depending on mileage, but unless you have some history/proof of that, you'll probably never know. Suspension is one of those things that you never really know how bad (or good) it is unless you replace the lot.

I replaced mine (the whole lot, pretty much...) at 90,000 miles (ish) and to be honest the difference was so drastic that it's like having a brand new car.

If you get an x-plod with anything from 120-150,000 miles on the clock, it'll either be totally shot or will already have been replaced (IMO).

Thanks for the info, I have read your new suspension posting. Sounds like a fun little project. I too will be lugging loads/friends/biking equipment so I'll need to stick with the Nivomat setup.

Wasn't sure on the milage that would = totally shot. Any way of knowing if it is totally shot from a test drive? Having never driven a V70 before, let alone a T5, and never mind if it's sorted or not, I have no point of comparison!

Badger, I have been looking at Koni FSD setups, from what I can tell, I'll loose the nivomats if I go down that route. Any other options?

**dave stew** · Thursday 1st October 2009, 16:35

The vast majority of police T5s run Nivomats. The rear springs and anti roll bar set up is different so just changing to a standard shock is not recommended without changing the springs too.

As for seeing whether the suspension is shot, you don't need to be haring arounf country lanes - you can feel the wobbliness at town speeds. If the front wishbone bushes are shot, the car will quite noticeably torque steer if you boot in in second gear. If it feels quite a 'floating boat' it is likely that the dampers have had it.

These cars are not rock hard sprung or super tight like maybe a 5 series BMW, but do handle and ride well and shouldn't be too floppy. Hope this helps.

Me, I have new bushes in the front wishbones (Powerflex solid) and four new Sachs 'Advantage' dampers that are slightly stiffer bump and a lot quicker rebound than standard. The car is much better, but I may get new springs yet.

**shemtek_racing** · Saturday 3rd October 2009, 21:03

my explodder had 130k on it when i got it and absolutely everything if not worn was on its way out

**JimmyBurnWorld** · Sunday 4th October 2009, 09:49

what needed sorting out, and how much did it knock you back?

**cornclose** · Sunday 4th October 2009, 15:01

All of the bits replaced when I did my suspension are pretty much the whole thing on these cars. There may be the odd other bits and pieces, but all that are prone to issues were replaced when I did mine. That give a reasonable idea of worst-case costs i think.

**shemtek_racing** · Monday 12th October 2009, 00:44

it depends on your preference in a car also. for me a car shoudnt have any slack init at all so when i overhauled my chassis/suspension i uprated alot of the parts at the same time

heres what ive done to mine so far

complete rear subframe refurb and re bush - poly where applicable.
new shocks and springs all round including top mounts/bearings etc
bottum ball joints
inner and outer track rods
polly front and rear wishbone bushes
ipd anti roll bars + droplinks

ive still got a few things to do untill ill be happy with it but thats my personnel preference.

one thing i will say is if you do decide to overhaul the suspension do not use non genuine parts as they are pants!

**MileMuncher** · Monday 26th October 2009, 11:02

I bought some drop links from PFV (I think they are scantech ones) about 2-3 months ago before we went down to France in the D5.

On Sat i was replacing the engine mounts as they were sh*gged, had the car up on the ramp & decided to have a quick look around, the rear drop link that i had replaced has sheered straight off. Where the 'rod' joins the joint, just completely come off, and the other end of the drop link was still rock solid (very stiff to move) leaving me with the opinion that the droplink had not done much work.

From now on, i'm not using cheaper alternatives.

Chances are that ive done over 3K miles with a ££££ed droplink.

**shemtek_racing** · Sunday 1st November 2009, 21:35

i use nothing but genuine or uprated parts. i had scantech bottum ball joints on for 6 months and when removed had a full 10mm of play in every direction. could have easily came apart and caused a crash