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    3.0ltr 960 advice

    im thinking of getting a 960, what should i look out for and whats the mpg like on these. any info at all would be great. thanks

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    We had one a long time back. From what i remember the only issue we had was the gearbox. Ended up breaking 2 of the auto ones. Not sure if its common or just our bad luck. The car wasnt that old though so not sure what they've aged like.

    Not the most helpful post but every little..... oh mpg not great.

    1995 854 T5 (upsoloute ecu, koni's etc) sold
    1995 855 T5 (rica 304 and lots of other bits) sold
    1994 Subaru Impreza WRX STi v1
    1995 Clio 1.8 RSi (hoping to swap for a t5 at some point)

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    my dads got a 3.0 cd estate and he loves it to bits it does better on fuel then my t5 does wayway better there a good motor just look for a good one thats been looked after your be having great fun good luck in your search mate,,,

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    Not sure about the fuel actually - they do like to drink - but if you can put up with that they are lovely, smooth motors. As a man on here once said, "it's like driving DFS"...
    Alastair
    Current: 2009 Cayenne GTS and a 2016 Prius IV... yes.
    Previous Volvos: 2009 V50 D5 R-Design, 2005 V70R, 2001 V70 T5, 2001 S40 T4, 2x 1999 S40 T4, 2003 V40 T4, 1999 V70 T5, 1996 854 T5 & 855 T5, 1995 855 T5, and a 480...
    Previous other stuff: Saxo Turbo, 2004 996 C4S, 2008 Z4M, 2001 Yaris T-Sport, 2002 S2000 Mugen, and a 1999 Evo VI



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    Quote Originally Posted by Al115 View Post
    Not sure about the fuel actually - they do like to drink - but if you can put up with that they are lovely, smooth motors. As a man on here once said, "it's like driving DFS"...
    lol love it dfs lol

  6. #6
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    The mpg riding round town is normally around the 20 mark but then again it depends how you drive it, the main common problem with them is problems with the clyinder head needing to be skimmed normally around the 100k mark i did read into this but have forgot why it happens.
    Also when looking at it make sure the nivo's rear shockers are in good condition as they are expensive new appart from that there a damm good car and im sure there the fastest uk rwd volvo made.

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    ,.,

    the rear shox get tired & it drags its arse low to the floor,
    you can replace the nivomat or self level things with normal rear shock absorbers but you have to change the rear leaf spring,
    theres 2 types,1 for the nivomat level things & 1 heavy duty for the standard shock set up....but they are very very expensive....& to replace the rear leaf spring you have to remove the rear axle & subframe....quite involved & its a serious spring on the rear....

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    Weren't they the best part of 205 bhp or something crazy like that??
    Alastair
    Current: 2009 Cayenne GTS and a 2016 Prius IV... yes.
    Previous Volvos: 2009 V50 D5 R-Design, 2005 V70R, 2001 V70 T5, 2001 S40 T4, 2x 1999 S40 T4, 2003 V40 T4, 1999 V70 T5, 1996 854 T5 & 855 T5, 1995 855 T5, and a 480...
    Previous other stuff: Saxo Turbo, 2004 996 C4S, 2008 Z4M, 2001 Yaris T-Sport, 2002 S2000 Mugen, and a 1999 Evo VI



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    great thanks peeps, ive seen a couple i like, still undecided wether to go back to a t5, ive got a 2002 v70 2.4 its boring my face off. thanks

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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by devreeze View Post
    great thanks peeps, ive seen a couple i like, still undecided wether to go back to a t5, ive got a 2002 v70 2.4 its boring my face off. thanks
    i think the the rear suspension is irs on the v90 ,960 and the 3litre 24v is very tunable with a few simple mods 300 bhp no probs and no turbo so pure power off the start.and also they sound awesome with a exhaust ss system .also if you are mechanicly minded then by the 2.5 24v manual with bullit proof gearbox and stick 3litre 24v in that ,a few people have done this very powerful and no auto just fun.look on turbobricks.com for ideas hope this helps

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    Head Gaskets (look for lumpy running and possibly coolant running next to exhaust manifold), PNP switches on autoboxes (flashing arrows on dash, not expensive fix...around £200 if you pay someone or £75 for the part if you do yourself), air con condensors, and as mentioned the suspension. Test by getting some weight in the boot with engine not having ran for a little while, then start engine and suspension should rise to correct level after a couple of minutes...if not then it's possibly on it's way out.

    Check this US website out:

    http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/FAQSummary1.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by Al115 View Post
    Weren't they the best part of 205 bhp or something crazy like that??
    204bhp was the official figure..


 

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