SnakePliskin Ex Police Interceptor V70 T5

[Dangerous Dave]

Glad to be of service matey. Nice to see you're all up and running again.

Dunno about Volvo's explanation, thraping the engine can't really cause the seal to split, thats just silly, it must have been either already split, or split when something was put on. As you now know, the seal just sits around the outside of the pipe, so really, all that can happen is the oil pressure can force it out past the seal. At the moment mine has a bodged seal made out of a tap seal I found in my uncles shed! it stopped the leak so I'm happy until I get the time to fit the spare one I have.

Anyway happy motoring buddy!

[SnakePliskin]

Oh forgot to mention that i should have my Bailey DV and Blue Silicon Hose off of the Intercooler on Saturday WAHOO

[SnakePliskin]

Need some info people

Ive just bought a Bailey DV, Samco SPrt Hose and a Manual Boost Controller.

I know where the DV goes but as for the vaccum and the manual boost controller i dont.
I know there is a boost regulator known as an Amul Vlave on a Cavalier Turbo but i dont know what way around the vaccum hoses go.

Can you help?

[p fandango]

I know there is a boost regulator known as an Amul Vlave on a Cavalier Turbo but i dont know what way around the vaccum hoses go.

i don't know the colour codes, but there should be 3 lines into the BCS (boost control solenoid) which you say you've already found (bolted to the side of the air box.)

remove all 3 from the BCS,

• the one from the intake side of the turbo (pressure line) goes to the inlet of the MBC.
• the one to the actuator goes to the outlet side of the MBC
• & the final one which should go back to the air intake pipe you block up.

you still have to leave the BCS wired up or the ECU won't be happy, just leave it in place with no pipes connected to it

[SnakePliskin]

i don't know the colour codes, but there should be 3 lines into the BCS (boost control solenoid) which you say you've already found (bolted to the side of the air box.)

remove all 3 from the BCS,

• the one from the intake side of the turbo (pressure line) goes to the inlet of the MBC.
• the one to the actuator goes to the outlet side of the MBC
• & the final one which should go back to the air intake pipe you block up.

you still have to leave the BCS wired up or the ECU won't be happy, just leave it in place with no pipes connected to it

Thanks for your quick reply matey!!

Right i understand what your saying fully BUT my MBC doesnt say which one is the inlet!! I know the outlet is the bottom of the T piece. Would it matter if i got them the wrong way round as long as the oulet is right?

[p fandango]

Thanks for your quick reply matey!!

Right i understand what your saying fully BUT my MBC doesnt say which one is the inlet!! I know the outlet is the bottom of the T piece. Would it matter if i got them the wrong way round as long as the oulet is right?

no problem mate, i'm going to have to disapoint you now & say you haven't got a MBC. You've got a bleed valve if you've got 3 terminals on it, you can still use it but its nowhere near as good as a MBC.

TBH i've never used a bleed valve so not too sure if the inlet/outlet will make a difference. From how i understand they work it shouldn't matter but i wouldn't take my word for it.

fitting it will also be different to the instruction i previously gave, the best way to fit a bleed valve is to leave the BCS plumbed in as standard & simply cut the pipe to the actuator & place the valve in that. It'll need fully adjusting out as it will need very little to raise the boost up

[SnakePliskin]

the best way to fit a bleed valve is to leave the BCS plumbed in as standard & simply cut the pipe to the actuator & place the valve in that. It'll need fully adjusting out as it will need very little to raise the boost up

Right okay, ive got that bit, basically pop it inine between the actuator vacuum feed pipe

BUT

That only gives me 2 pipes for the bleed valve, what happens with the third outlet on the Bleed Valve?

My DV is now fitted but i wasnt given the blanking plate to go with it!! Do i just bolck the vacuum pipe off of where the blanking plate fits as the DV is connected to my Inlet Manifold Vacuum

[p fandango]

Right okay, ive got that bit, basically pop it inine between the actuator vacuum feed pipe

BUT

That only gives me 2 pipes for the bleed valve, what happens with the third outlet on the Bleed Valve?

a bleed valve basically drains an adjustable amout of air out of the pressure line, fooling the actuator into thinking the turbo isn't creating as much boost so leaving the wastegate closed for longer. The third one will be the wasted air that is being drained off so just left open to the air, i suppose you could use a T-piece & feed it back into the air-intake like the BCS does. As i say i've never used a bleed valve so can't help with which terminal is what i'm afraid.

try blowing thru the valve & see which does what when you turn the adjuster

[p fandango]

My DV is now fitted but i wasnt given the blanking plate to go with it!! Do i just bolck the vacuum pipe off of where the blanking plate fits as the DV is connected to my Inlet Manifold Vacuum

no your best off leaving the recirc valve fully working until you get a blanking plate. There only £20 from Forge motorsport LINK.

If you remove the pipe from the recirc valve while its in place the valve will have no pressure against it to keep it closed when the turbo comes on boost, this will force the valve open & air will be forced back into the intake when it shouldn't be

[SnakePliskin]

So in order to keep the recirc valve working do i just reconnect the recirc pipe to my inlet but put a T piece into it for the DV?

[p fandango]

So in order to keep the recirc valve working do i just reconnect the recirc pipe to my inlet but put a T piece into it for the DV?

yeh reconnect the original recirc valve pipe, but there should be a terminal spare on the vac tree which you can use for the dump valve. Remove the plastic throttle wheel cover & you should be able to see a few of pipes connecting to a black plastic tower just at the end of the inlet manifold. Theirs normally a few terminals which have just got rubber bungs on the end you can use

[SnakePliskin]

yeh reconnect the original recirc valve pipe, but there should be a terminal spare on the vac tree which you can use for the dump valve. Remove the plastic throttle wheel cover & you should be able to see a few of pipes connecting to a black plastic tower just at the end of the inlet manifold. Theirs normally a few terminals which have just got rubber bungs on the end you can use

You are an absolute legend!!!!!

I owe you one matey

Will go and try it now matey

[p fandango]

You are an absolute legend!!!!!

I owe you one matey

Will go and try it now matey

no problem mate, thats what forums are here for

remember it will be quiet till you get the recirc valve removed so don't be disappoint

[SnakePliskin]

no problem mate, thats what forums are here for

remember it will be quiet till you get the recirc valve removed so don't be disappoint

Yeah cheers for that dude

Yeah it is a little quiet but it doesnt really bother me at the moment as the car still goes like stink

[SnakePliskin]

Here you go guys only 2 piccies for you

[Flatout Phil]

LOL, you did it the hard way, after my first clutch change (nightmare) I found it easier to drop the complete subframe and engine, and lift the car off it......

Oh I so wish I could have a go at this - brings me back to my Imp days when engine changes were a game of speed! Once managed to remove an Imp engine in 20 minutes from opening the lid. Those were the days. Methinks this task is rather more complicated. The old CD is just waiting to have a new motor popped in. Indeed, it woud be great to pop the existing unit out and do the oil seals. Ah well, don't think it's gonna happen...