am going to renew pcv

[ikp_77]

i am going to change my pcv system is there any speical tools needed and how hard is it to change many thanks

[5seaterT5x2]

i am going to change my pcv system is there any speical tools needed and how hard is it to change many thanks

no special tools really except various torx drivers as seems to be pretty standard on volvos, it's not to hard just time consuming, you have a pair of ramps/axlestands? if you aint got the parts try rufe on here think he does a good deal for vpcuk

[Tomcat]

Rufe would be your best source for the parts, think I paid between £70 and £80 for mine.

[cameron]

£70 delivered for mine and recieved it next day, Rufe is highly reccomended

[dooby]

I found I needed a decent set of 1/4" bits, as getting onto some of the inlet manifold bolts was hard with my chunky 1/2" set.

Not sure you need jack/axle stands/chocks for the PCV but it's a long time since I did it :-)

Cheers, Pete

[5seaterT5x2]

I found I needed a decent set of 1/4" bits, as getting onto some of the inlet manifold bolts was hard with my chunky 1/2" set.

Not sure you need jack/axle stands/chocks for the PCV but it's a long time since I did it :-)

Cheers, Pete

Think i just used 3/8th drive mostly never had the need much anywhere on 1/2 inch drive specially on motorbikes but it was a while back, i seem to remember there was a few bolts bottom of manifold by the dipstick tube was easier to get under front of car ie:- on ramps/axle stands but there maybe other methods

[Diesel64]

Done my PCV myself, it's not too bad to do, just follow the guidelines in the Haynes manual. BUT there are a few items not mentioned that I learnt the hard way...hopefully, my pain will be your easy job!..

Recommend you have a longish extension and universal joint fitting on the end of the socket to get to some of the manifold bolts. I used a 1/4" set. Remove the top ones and just loosen the bottom ones enough to lift the manifold off.

Remove your battery, or cover the battery/airbox with a blanket/bit of card to rest the manifold on when it's off.

Make sure you have a set of jubilee clips to clamp the new hoses on, as the standard ones will be useless once you take them off. From memory, I think they need to be circa 22mm ones, but don't quote me on that.

If your reusing the breather hose (that goes from the PCV round the front of the engine to the Air inlet round the back) be really careful not to bend is too much as the heat and age tend to make it brittle. I'd recommed getting the full kit from Rufe.

Take your time re seating the manifold (with a new gasket) as it can be a pig to get right - I'd recommend marking the location of the manifold braket before you remove it so you can set the height correctly when it goes back. Like in the Haynes manual, have a torque wrench handy for the manifold bolts...

Don't forget to re-attach the vac hose on the LHS of the manifold BEFORE re-fitting! Helps to have a mate with you as you need 4 pairs of hands.

Good luck, hope this helps! If you have any specific questions feel free to ask/PM me.

Cheers

[Diesel64]

Sorry - just noticed yours is a Phase 2 / 70 series.

My PCV experience was on my N Reg 850. Shouldn't make too great a difference, but just wanted to point it out.

I must pay more attention in future!

[Rufe]

Reading this its worth noting that with model year 1999 (ME7 and newer) on have the heated pcv system, so although its pretty much the same job, the main tube also has incorporated to it a coolant pipe with banjo fittings at either end. This main tube is actually very expensive, and on its own your looking at around £95 or so believe it or not, (as oppose to about £25 for the earlier version) this makes the job for the newer cars quite a bit more expensive, though some people prefer to not change that hose due to its cost, and only clean it out. its not ideal but better than ignoring it. In these cases if ordering a kit you would still get the set of 4 copper washers in order to be able to take the hose off clean it and refit.

Simon