bleeding brakes?

[850 Turbo Hearse]

hi folks,

The plan is to take the battle-bus to the 'Ring in October, so I've picked up some braided lines and new discs, pads etc, and wanted to fit them this weekend.

However, before I rip everything off, I just wondered if im going to be able to bleed them myself- or is it a bit of a pig because of the ABS and stuff? If so, will I need a special pressure machine to do it?

also, whilst Im doing the brakes, should I be thinking of upgrading the fluid to dot 7 or something, or will that be too ascorbic, and require changing every thirty seconds? If someone could let me know what you guys use, and how much of it to buy, that'd be aces.

many thanks in advance,
Nerv.

[nobananas]

Bleeding the brakes should be no more of a problem than bleeding any other car. Just be methodical, fit one pipe at a time then bleed that circuit by having somebody slowly pump the pedal for you whilst you open the caliper nipple. Make sure the resevoir doesn't run dry whilst bleeding or you will introduce air into the system. I changed my fluid to DOT 5.1 when I fitted my hoses and also order yourself the little plastc bracket that sits on top of one of the rear Delta arms that holds one end of the flexi-pipe. They always break and then can hold up an otherwise straightforward job

[850 Turbo Hearse]

Bleeding the brakes should be no more of a problem than bleeding any other car. Just be methodical, fit one pipe at a time then bleed that circuit by having somebody slowly pump the pedal for you whilst you open the caliper nipple. Make sure the resevoir doesn't run dry whilst bleeding or you will introduce air into the system. I changed my fluid to DOT 5.1 when I fitted my hoses and also order yourself the little plastc bracket that sits on top of one of the rear Delta arms that holds one end of the flexi-pipe. They always break and then can hold up an otherwise straightforward job

excellent stuff, thanks NB.

do you think slowly introduce the new as I bleed out the old? any ideas how much fluid I might need to replace the lot?

thanks again, much appreciated.

[nobananas]

I'm a bit spoilt as I can borrow a vacuum bleeder from work (I don't use it to bleed the brakes but it is handy to suck the old fluid out of the resevoir). If you can drain/suck the old fluid out of the resevoir then do so (as long as you don't press the brake with the resevoir empty you won't have any problems) as it will reduce the amount of wasted new fluid you'll use. You shouldn't need more than two liters (I did mine with just one) and if you want to be really picky then you should perhaps bleed through the clutch slave cylinder too as it shares the same resevoir. When bleeding, bleed out aprox half the resevoir through each caliper (refilling in between) and that should be enough to flush the system through with the new fluid...oh it may help to have the engine running whilst you bleed them.

[850 Turbo Hearse]

thats ace, thanks NB, I really appreciate you taking the time.

If any of you are at all interested, the development of the car can be followed here www.roadmagazine.co.uk

Its a free internet mag that Im the editor of, and Im hoping to show over the next few months that you can have more fun in a Volvo.

[snoop69]

I changed my fluid to DOT 5.1 when I fitted my hoses

Carefull with 5.1 as it absorbs moisture leading to brake fade.

Racers use it but then they change the fluid regularly

[nobananas]

No worries mate, any problems someone on here will always sort you out, have subscribed to your online magazine, looks interesting, if you do a feature on your Volvo give us all a nudge so we can view it.

[nobananas]

Carefull with 5.1 as it absorbs moisture leading to brake fade.

Racers use it but then they change the fluid regularly

All brake fluids absorb moisture to some extent but I think 5.1 has a higher boiling point and is less compressable then 3 or 4 which is suposed to give a better pedal feel but admittedly I didn't notice much difference !

[snoop69]

Conventional brake fluids (glycol) fall under Dot 3 and Dot 4 specifications.Dot 5 is silicone based & does not absorb moisture.
Dot 5.1 is not silicone based.

Although it has a higher boiling point,moisture causes this to diminish
rapidly.

[nobananas]

Conventional brake fluids (glycol) fall under Dot 3 and Dot 4 specifications.Dot 5 is silicone based & does not absorb moisture.
Dot 5.1 is not silicone based.

Although it has a higher boiling point,moisture causes this to diminish
rapidly.

I know 5.1 is Glycol based that's why I used it ! To use silicone based fluids you really have to flush the system extremely thoroughly as the two don't mix so it's best not to use it unless you are replacing everything or it's a new build. 5.1 though has to be preferable to Dot 3 or 4 especially as Turbo Hearse is intending to do some track use with his Volvo and you should really be replacing your fluid yearly idealy, or at the very least every two.

[nobananas]

My apologies Snoop, just re-read my last post and it might have come over a bit 'narky', wasn't intentional.

[850 Turbo Hearse]

thanks for the above folks.

I fitted the pads, discs and shoes at the weekend no troubles, but sadly the lines were a bit more tricky as the emminently crushable brass fittings on the lines are so useless that even the slightest force causes them to go entirely spherical, meaning Im going to have to get a grown up to do it for me, sadly. I HATE being defeated.

while Im awake, theres a couple of little qu's if you've got a min- I adjusted the new rear shoes using the internal adjuster inside the disc to what I thought was tight enough, but now everythings back together, the handbrake clearly needs adjusting as its rubbish. is there another way of adjusting it, or do I have to take the bloody wheel, caliper and disc off again? please say no. please.

secondly, anyone know if i can run 215 tyres instead of 205's without fouling the inner arch/ liner etc?

thanks for all your help so far folks, much appreciated

[snoop69]

My apologies Snoop, just re-read my last post and it might have come over a bit 'narky', wasn't intentional.

No offense taken buddy - a little banter doesnt hurt anyone but i
fully understood what you were saying

Back on topic - what size rims are you running regarding the 215's?

[850 Turbo Hearse]

theyre 17's- the standard ones on the 850r. That mean anything significant?

[850 Turbo Hearse]

any ideas on the handbrake adjustment too? dear god, I hope I dont have to take it all apart again. C'mon Volvo- please be smarter >crosses fingers<

[snoop69]

theyre 17's- the standard ones on the 850r. That mean anything significant?

I wasnt sure what wheel/tyre combo you have.

My T5 has 16'' fitted as standard.

Im sure Andrew (Niles) has had to change from 215 to 205 17'' as the
Mot tester noticed rub marks inside the wheel arch.

Maybe someone near to you could lend you a 215/17 & see if it rubs!!

[850 Turbo Hearse]

I wasnt sure what wheel/tyre combo you have.

My T5 has 16'' fitted as standard.

Im sure Andrew (Niles) has had to change from 215 to 205 17'' as the
Mot tester noticed rub marks inside the wheel arch.

Maybe someone near to you could lend you a 215/17 & see if it rubs!!

oh, bum. thanks though Snoops.

sadly, I dont know anyone over here in Norfolk with an 850, let alone one with 17s with 215s on- were still thrilled to have electrickery

[nobananas]

any ideas on the handbrake adjustment too? dear god, I hope I dont have to take it all apart again. C'mon Volvo- please be smarter >crosses fingers<

What you must do before adjusting the handbrake shoes (especially if they are new) is back the adjuster right off on the handbrake lever itself. Then adjust your shoes until they just rub, pull the handbrake once (just to centralize the shoes) then turn the drum/disc again and adjust if necessary (it may be easier to push your service brake pads in a little so they are not contacting the disc so you can judge how much 'rub' your getting on the shoes) then finally take up the slack on the handbrake lever adjuster.

[850 Turbo Hearse]

thanks NB

so, undo screw thing in the central cubby, remove rear wheels, find inspection hole, adjust screw thingy through hole til the shoes rub, pull handbrake lever to centralise once, adjust up some more through inspection hole, then wind in screw thing in central cubby?

have I got that right?

[dooby]

secondly, anyone know if i can run 215 tyres instead of 205's without fouling the inner arch/ liner etc?

Hiya,

I haven't run 215/45/R17 myself (I was running 205/45/R17 on my 850R Volans) but I'd guess you will get slight rubbing.

With 7J width on a Volan you'll be OK width-wise with the 215 tyre. The problem might be the increase in circumference.

I'm now on 235/40/R17 on an 8J rim which has increased the sidewall height from 92.2mm to 94mm. If you go 215/45 you'll be at 96.8mm. If I had to guess I'd say you'll probably be OK on the full lock scenario (just don't hold it hard on lock) but if you're tracking her and leaning over far enough you might have the tyres rubbing the arch liner at the top of the wheel/bottom of the wing. I'm seeing a small amount of rub with my setup.

Trouble is, if you drop to 215/40 you go from sidewall of 92.2mm down to 86mm so you might get a worse ride.

I reckon, unless someone who's run those tyres speaks up you should chance it then come back and blame me when they rub :-) That way we'll know...

Cheers, Pete