I am going to lower the car soon,As the suspension has become very tired after 143k,I don't even think they have been replaced yet,
Just wondering what need fixtures will i need or could i put all the bolts back on i take off?
Gary
I am going to lower the car soon,As the suspension has become very tired after 143k,I don't even think they have been replaced yet,
Just wondering what need fixtures will i need or could i put all the bolts back on i take off?
Gary
V40 2.0T Sport Lux Titanium grey,(03) 133k,standard
Yamaha R1 5VY,(06) 180bhp/165whp,100nm
Hi Gary,
I recently lowered my motor with a PI lowering kit. I'm sure you've seen this guide:
http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut
Between reading that and the Haynes manual, I spent £40 on nuts and bolts to replace the old tired stuff on an 110,000 car. The most expensive items I bought were the strut-to-steering knuckle nuts and bolts x 4 at a total of £30! Did I need them? Well, that's debatable. The existing ones looked okay but for piece of mind I put new ones on. I didn't need to replace the strut mounts and spring seats as they appeared fine. I would suggest you replace the link rod arms too (Euro car parts - £10). Mine looked knackered so it was no surprise when one fell apart prying it off the strut.
Keep in mind you may need replacement parts as and when carrying out the upgrade.
The bush that runs through the top mount spring seat is one of the main components to fail - see my gallery and you will see how the bush around the edge has fatigued away from the rest of the rubber.
If the spring seats are really busted - they tend to take the top mount bearing with them. You can check once you have compressed and released the seat and the bearing. Bearing should run nice and easy. If it is resistant/and or crunchy then replace it.
The drop links on the front anti-roll bar can be awkward to undo. Replace them if the bushes are split or floppy. They are not expensive. You can angle grind through the middle of the bolt holding the drop link in place - as it is all one piece and you are throwing that bit away! The top nut tends to be easier to undo.
Gary, Are you doing the job yourself? You do know that using spring compressors is a bit like playing russian roulette?
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Thanks lads,I was thinking of just cleaning the nuts are bolts up and using loctite on them before torqing them,
Yes Dave i am going to ttry and do it myself,The place i am getting the Springs and shocks from are assembling the whole strut together for me,So should be a lot easier for me,
Will take a look at the drop links,
So does anything need to be adjusted after the install?Obviously tracking will have to be redone.
Gary
V40 2.0T Sport Lux Titanium grey,(03) 133k,standard
Yamaha R1 5VY,(06) 180bhp/165whp,100nm
Does this mean that your suspension place is putting on the spring seat? (this is the nasty bit of the job - because of the forces involved in compressing those springs).
On the front - the top mount comprises of the spring seat and the bearing, which is the bit you can see at the top of the turret, with the 3 bolts coming out the top of it. So long as the strut is pre-assembled - dropping the strut is not that hard. I can come down and help if you want me to.
Volvo ABS ECU Repair
Join my projecteers tribe - Old Volvos Never Die - They just get faster.
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Hi Dave thanks for the offer,But i am miles away,I will give it a go myself first,
Yes there are coming to me preassembled,So hopefully a piece of cake if i can get the drop links off the car.
V40 2.0T Sport Lux Titanium grey,(03) 133k,standard
Yamaha R1 5VY,(06) 180bhp/165whp,100nm
I am coming to Essex soon anyway - to drop off those turbo parts for Bracer.
Volvo ABS ECU Repair
Join my projecteers tribe - Old Volvos Never Die - They just get faster.
Visit my VPCUK garage and my YouTube channel - WobblyDave72
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