Wiring in the boost gauge

[Wobbly Dave]

You will need some wire and some spade connectors or similar electrical connectors. Crimping tools and wire strippers. The pictures included were for a BSR Gauge

[Wobbly Dave]

Below is the gauge loom from a BSR gauge

[Wobbly Dave]

Get 2 lengths of wire - 5 amp is more than enough - about 18 inches long.
Crimp the connector to these length of wire and do the same for the lighting loom on the gauge. If you are using uninsulated connectors they will need wrapping with insulating tape to prevent shorting. You can "chocolate box" them if you wish, but this method makes for easy removal of the gauge.

[Wobbly Dave]

Open the drivers door

Pull back the rubber seal off the frame - exposing the bit next to the end of the dashboard.

[Wobbly Dave]

Undo the 3 screws to release the plastic cover above the pedals and pull the cover out from the slots on each side.

[Wobbly Dave]

Thread the wire into the gap between the end of the dash and the door frame.


Feed the other end of the wires behind the plastic fascia at the end of the dash where the air comes out to blow on the window.

[Wobbly Dave]

Remove the headlight switch from the dash, either by reaching inside the dash from the footwell or by prising it out with a screwdriver or pulling on the knob.

Feed the wires up and through the hole where the light switch is.

[Wobbly Dave]

Twist the bear end up on the live wire (I used red and black wires) and wedge it into the back of the switch (position 4) where the blue and yellow wire comes out on the top row of the connector.
Do the same for the other wire and wedge it into the end connection where the black wire comes out. The lights on the gauge will be on all the time, whilst the ignition is on. If you want them to come on with the switch (when you turn the headlights on) then feed the black wire into the position where the pink wire comes out of the switch - far left end

[Wobbly Dave]

Connect up the fed wires up to the gauge.

Put all the trim back into place. Put the cover in the footwell into place (make sure you get the slots into the right place on the hinges either side) and screw it back up.

Turn on the ignition to ensure that the connection is good before pushing back the switch into its hole.

JOB DONE

If you have any questions/comments about this procedure then please post them in the Modifications section. I would appreciate any additional comments about how useful you found these instructions particularly if you've just used them to do this job!